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Suspension Help With Suspension

  • Thread starter Thread starter sixty7stang
  • Start date Start date Jan 28, 2013

sixty7stang

New Member
Jan 17, 2013
21
0
1
Jan 28, 2013
#1
  • Jan 28, 2013
  • #1
Hey guys my 67 Mustang has completely stock suspension and is my everyday driver. I plan on upgrading the entire suspension eventually, but for now I can only afford to do one or two things at a time. Any suggestions on what I should do in order?
 

Iamdiffrnt

Member
Nov 13, 2005
197
6
19
South of Detroit, MI
Jan 28, 2013
#2
  • Jan 28, 2013
  • #2
First, is this your daily driver, or just a project car? Is it an inline six, or a V-8? What are your intentions with this vehicle?

If it's your daily, go through your front suspenison and repair/replace everything that is loose/bent/cracked or has play in it, then move to the back, unless something else is feeling wrong. First priority is making the car safe to drive.

If it's a project car, decide what upgrades you want to do, and make a plan. There are quite a few things that are easier to do in coordination with others. For instance: Upper suspension arms, springs, shelby/arning drop, roller perches. All of those will be pretty much coming out at the same time, which ever one you are doing, and it will save a lot of time and effort to just do them all at once.
 

sixty7stang

New Member
Jan 17, 2013
21
0
1
Jan 28, 2013
#3
  • Jan 28, 2013
  • #3
Iamdiffrnt said:
First, is this your daily driver, or just a project car? Is it an inline six, or a V-8? What are your intentions with this vehicle?

If it's your daily, go through your front suspenison and repair/replace everything that is loose/bent/cracked or has play in it, then move to the back, unless something else is feeling wrong. First priority is making the car safe to drive.

If it's a project car, decide what upgrades you want to do, and make a plan. There are quite a few things that are easier to do in coordination with others. For instance: Upper suspension arms, springs, shelby/arning drop, roller perches. All of those will be pretty much coming out at the same time, which ever one you are doing, and it will save a lot of time and effort to just do them all at once.
Click to expand...

This is my daily driver and it has a 351W. And thank you for your suggestions!
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 28, 2013
#4
  • Jan 28, 2013
  • #4
the first thing you want to do is stiffen up the chassis. subframe connectors are a good start, along with an export brace, monte carlo bar, and stringer to tie the subframe connectors to the outer rocker panel. the stiffer you get the chassis, the more effective later suspension modifications become.

after that you want better springs, with the 351w i suggest using either a 540lb rate or a 620lb rate spring on the front, and a 200lb rate spring on the rear. step up to a good quality set of shocks, i like the KYB gas adjust shocks for an inexpensive upgrade, do the shelby mod that relocates the upper control are pivot point, and invest in a pair of boxed lower control arms.

after that you want to go to adjustable strut rods, roller spring perches, boxed upper arms, and a spherical bearing for the lower arm.

in the rear you want some form of traction bar, its hard to beat the shelby under ride traction bars or cal tracs.
 
Reactions: Smitten65 and sixty7stang

sixty7stang

New Member
Jan 17, 2013
21
0
1
Jan 28, 2013
#5
  • Jan 28, 2013
  • #5
rbohm said:
the first thing you want to do is stiffen up the chassis. subframe connectors are a good start, along with an export brace, monte carlo bar, and stringer to tie the subframe connectors to the outer rocker panel. the stiffer you get the chassis, the more effective later suspension modifications become.

after that you want better springs, with the 351w i suggest using either a 540lb rate or a 620lb rate spring on the front, and a 200lb rate spring on the rear. step up to a good quality set of shocks, i like the KYB gas adjust shocks for an inexpensive upgrade, do the shelby mod that relocates the upper control are pivot point, and invest in a pair of boxed lower control arms.

after that you want to go to adjustable strut rods, roller spring perches, boxed upper arms, and a spherical bearing for the lower arm.


in the rear you want some form of traction bar, its hard to beat the shelby under ride traction bars or cal tracs.
Click to expand...

Wow thank you!!! That was very informative I will definitely keep all of that in mind!
 

Smitten65

Member
Jan 7, 2011
57
4
19
FL
Jan 29, 2013
#6
  • Jan 29, 2013
  • #6
If you can't do it all at once, rbohm's approach is VERY sensible. I did all the items he suggests as well. Do these before engine changes and you will have a nice riding car this is ready for whatever you do next. I went with KYB gas-adjust in the front only and GR2's (those are replaced now by their Excel-G) and a 4 1/2 leaf mideye rear spring , 620 one inch lowering front. Even SWMBO thinks it rides nice and quiet. Well, at least the suspension is quiet!
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 29, 2013
#7
  • Jan 29, 2013
  • #7
sixty7stang said:
Wow thank you!!! That was very informative I will definitely keep all of that in mind!
Click to expand...

anytime.
 

Badscotts68

New Member
Jan 24, 2013
24
1
4
Bay Area, ca.
Feb 2, 2013
#8
  • Feb 2, 2013
  • #8
When I bought my car the first thing I did was order new disk front breakers, then the power steering. Next was the all ball joints, a-arms, and full caged sub frame connectors. Now I'm doing the rear springs, breaks and rear end. Now that its safe to "stop, and turn" I'm going to start building out an new motor.
I'd say breake are #1, then steering. After that have fun with it.
 
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