Help!!!

Hope this helps

Not sure this is really kosher, posting a link to another forum...but

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_559973/mpage_1/key_Project/tm.htm#559973

There are some things that they tell you to do in the instructions (like all the Tek screws into the cowl) that are just not cool. I was not about to put tech screws through the cowl, where eventually they would rust out and/or come loose. Other than that, there really isn't much to the instructions that isn't common sense. I think it would be hard to put it in wrong. Unfortunately I don't have my instructions any more or I'd scan them for you.

I picked up the gromets and the automotive style bolts for the "heater delete" plate that is used to run the tubes through from the local Ace hardware. The instructions have you run the heater valve cable through one of the plastic plugs that covers the hole where the old heater lines used to be. I didn't think that was a very clean way to do things, so I ran the cable through the heater delete plate, then attached it to the dash levers. Also they have you put the heater delete plate on the engine side of the firewall, again using a couple of Tek screws. It wasn't much more work to mount it from the inside and looks much cleaner.

The steps are:

1). remove glove box door and glove box (save all screws)
2). remove the radio and save everything
3). remove dash speaker cover (save cover and screws) remove defrost hoses and outlets (toss out)
4). remove dash lever assembly (discard cables, keep everything else)
5). drain radiator then remove heater core (nothing is saved from this)
6). install round metal plate over passenger air vent hose ( I ended up using styrofoam and silicon calking as I wasn't about to put Tek screws through the bottom of the cowl). By putting foam at the top, no water will get in and rust or stagnate. Blue foam would be easier.
7). install the rear plenum (part where air ducting hoses hook up to) on A/C box and metal strap ( they want you to put a tek screw into the cowl to hold the front of the A/C box in place (I made a new mount that attaches to a cross brace). The box needs to sit as high as possible and still be level, to keep the lines centered in the old heater motor hole. Do not drill the hole for the drip hose until you mount the box, and then make sure your brake line is out of the way. I used a small punch as a starter hole after mounting the box.
8). remove the original heater switch and install new switch with bracket. I think there is one hole you need to drill for bracket to attach to heater control face plate. I kind of changed that whole part around on mine. What I did is not at all necessary, it just allows me to have full A/C with the air blowing out at my feet (a neccessity in a convertible).
9). Install the cables onto the levers, and doors. Adjust the cable length so that your levers work correctly. Be gentle inserting the cable end into the arms on the air box. The plastic is fragile and will crack. The longest one is for the coolant valve. Look at where the doors are to figure out which one the shortest goes to. I can't remember. Do not kink these cables and keep the bends as gradual as possible. I also lubricated the lever assembly with synthetic grease to make it work nice and smooth.
10). Install the lever assembly back into the dash.
11). connect the main connector to the switch. The short blue wires go to the relay on the side of the A/C box.
12). install the radio
13). here is where I deviated, and I do suggest this modification. I did not hack up the stock wire harness as the instructions have you do. Instead, I ran the red wire and the blue wire into the engine compartment. The red wire plugs into the hot wire that plugged into the original heater fan. The blue wire runs to the HP switch, and the HP switch now runs to a 35A relay to power the coil in the relay. I installed a 20A inline blade fuse (with cover) from the B+ side of the starter relay to the common on the relay. the N.O. contact of the relay hooks up to the compressor clutch. This way the only serious amp draw though any switch is for the fan. The HP switch and thermostat relay only see milli-amps that the relay coil draws. The 35A relay now controls the clutch coil. If you decide to run a killer stereo you can add a diode to from B+ to N.O. on the relay (that will eliminate any "pops" as the clutch cycles). Also you could add a 10A fuse inline at the bullit connector for the fan (IIRC the original heater fan was not protected by a fused circuit).

14). Run the defrost ducts and hoses, then install the front half of the plenum and run the rest of the hoses. The vents use different diameter hoses, and I can't remember which one goes where. If you can't figure it out send me an email, and I'll go out and check for you. It should be pretty straight forward based on the outlet ducts from the plenum.

Install the new plastic P.O.S. glove box and glove box door.

The engine side is pretty much self explanitory. Try to keep all the lines and the receiver dryer capped until the last possible moment. Once installed you will want to pull vacuum for at least 45 minutes to boil out any moisture. Let an A/C shop evacuate, charge and leak test the whole thing.

Well I think I got everything covered. Just take your time and look closely at how everything fits. This isn't brain surgery, just pay attention to detail and you should be fine. Keep an eye on your windshield wiper arms that they do not get hung up, or rub on the vent hoses.
Hopefully someone will still have their instructions. Or wait and do it your self. If you can build a computer, you can install an A/C system.
One other thing, I had the front seats out of the car during this time. What a back saver that was! I also used an adjustable desk lamp that I could position anywhere under the dash to keep things nice and bright.
Hope this helps.
Good luck,

Scott

original holes

Glad to hear you found your instructions.
CAA gives you two plastic plugs for the original heater hose holes. For now I used them. When I pull the engine I will weld up and smooth the entire firewall.

Good luck with the install.

Scott

6 cylinder engine makes it real easy.

has a different routing for the coolant hose that was easy. The aluminum tube is fixed at the HP switch with a zip tie that goes through the original wire harness loop. I used a small tie that is almost impossible to see. From there the hose to the evap runs across the top of the firewall and fits snuggly under the lip. I didn't have to do anything to hold it in place. The hose from the evap to the compressor is almost a straight shot that is simple because of the straight 6 cylinder.

Glad to hear you got it all in. I didn't notice you have a 64.5. All the little diferences can be a pain in the keister. Good idea to not drill into your cowl.

Looks like you got it right

I don't know why they give you so many. It's like they throw a whole conversion (R-12 to R-134a) kit in. You only need them on the "stepped fitting to seal the tube. 4 sounds about right.
The two biggest errors I see made, when it comes to fittings, are over tightening the flare fittings (just past snug is all that is required), and not using a wrench on each side of the fitting. The best way to tighten the fittings is to place both wrenches so that you can squeeze them together in one hand. A "firm" hand shake squeeze is all that is needed. Any more distorts the flare. Also not using a wrench on each side stresses the joint and will cause a crack failure down the road.

Sounds like you are getting things dialed in. Good luck with it.

Scott

additional wiring

The extra switch is wired in parellel with the door activated microswitch. I would only add it in a convertible. There is plenty of adjustment in the micoswitch to get a mix of A/C between the floor and dash. With the top down in a convertible the air blows out so quickly that to gain any comfort you need it all coming out under the dash.
The LED is a 12V setup from Radio shack, it's wired to the N.O. contact of the added switch, and the negative side goes directly to ground.

The original fan ran through the ignition switch circuit, so I wouldn't worry too much. Other than you may want to add a fuse in line if you want to protect the original wiring. I do like the idea of the relay for the clutch though. That keeps it isolated. Down the road if you want to add an electric fan for running the A/C full blast while sitting in line waiting to get into the car show, it will be an easy install.

Scott

abbreviations

N.O. is "normally open". Meaning the contact position with the switch at rest is open so no current flows.

H.P. is my slang for the High Pressure switch that you installed between the aluminum tube (covered in the clear plastic sleeve) and the hose that goes to the evaporator.

Sounds like you are almost there.
Good luck!