Here is a odd one for you guys! electrical

Adam95GT · May 23, 2010

Ok i finished installing the HIDS today and turned on the headlights a few times...

The car was in the run position and every once in awhile when i turned on the headlights i could hear the fuel pump prime....

Any ideas???

I thought i found all the little issues...

SableSal · May 23, 2010

Funny! I just installed HIDs too. Couple of weeks back. Everytime I turn on the Headlights or fogs (fogs have HIDs too). The ABS light turns on. If I start it with the headlights or fogs already on... the light doesn't turn on. Weird... I guess HID were just NOT meant for our cars! LOL...

Bosko5.0 · May 23, 2010

Recheck your grounds and + wire

toyman · May 24, 2010

Did the kits include relays to isolate the power draw from the headlight switch? I can't imagine that they didn't but!!!! Definitely needed. One for high and low beams. All spliced connections need to be soldered and heat shrunk (waterproof). 12 gauge wire minimum from the relays to the lights with fuses in each circuit between the relay and power source.

HISSIN50 · May 24, 2010

The HIDs should draw less than the stock lighting did. The wiring from the ballasts forward should be included in the kit.

Adam, you might wanna try doing the same scenario, but this time turn on your HVAC fan or something else that's a high draw (instead of the headlights). This could help isolate if it's an issue with the headlight circuit or if the pump is priming when system voltage fluctuates.

Tangent: If you guys don't mind, can you PM me (or post on here if Adam doesn't mind) what headlight and fog light (if applicable) housings you're using? I've tinkered with HIDs in the fog light housings and I think I'd melt those in about two minutes. I'm curious what projector headlight housings you're liking too. Thanks.

Adam95GT · May 24, 2010

HISSIN50 said:
The HIDs should draw less than the stock lighting did. The wiring from the ballasts forward should be included in the kit.

Adam, you might wanna try doing the same scenario, but this time turn on your HVAC fan or something else that's a high draw (instead of the headlights). This could help isolate if it's an issue with the headlight circuit or if the pump is priming when system voltage fluctuates.

Tangent: If you guys don't mind, can you PM me (or post on here if Adam doesn't mind) what headlight and fog light (if applicable) housings you're using? I've tinkered with HIDs in the fog light housings and I think I'd melt those in about two minutes. I'm curious what projector headlight housings you're liking too. Thanks.

My favorite set up is the one chris has on his cobra. hes using the 2 piece projectors with HID's

They seemed to direct the light really well. Since i have a bixenon kit i was stuck with a stock style housing with one bulb... not the seperate high and low.

TrueBlue95GT · May 24, 2010

HISSIN50 said:
The HIDs should draw less than the stock lighting did.

You are semi-correct. After the bulb is ignited, they draw less power than halogens, but when you first turn them on, they use need to step up the voltage to something rediculous in order to arc between the two electrodes in the xenon gas. This is when HID's need the thick wiring and shouldn't be run directly off of your original headlight wiring.

Adam95GT · May 24, 2010

TrueBlue95GT said:
HISSIN50 said:

The HIDs should draw less than the stock lighting did.QUOTE]

You are semi-correct. After the bulb is ignited, they draw less power than halogens, but when you first turn them on, they use need to step up the voltage to something rediculous in order to arc between the two electrodes in the xenon gas. This is when HID's need the thick wiring and shouldn't be run directly off of your original headlight wiring.

Click to expand...

My HID's are on balasts... only using the headlight as a signal on... However. I did tap in to a hot in run line from my gauges... its possible that it might be something there... Ill cut it again and test tomorrow.

NinJa_FLiP · May 24, 2010

some ballasts have the "soft-start" circuitry built-in supposedly to not draw too much when powered on.. the ones that don't usually require a separate relay to be installed inline to increase the power needed to power-up.. if you tapped into your gauge wiring for the constant 12v, id run it directly to the battery instead.. if its just the ign12v, id run that off your main ign harness since those wires are a lot thicker..

GTA_V6_Mustang · May 24, 2010

I got a set of 35 watt plug and play HID's for mine for the fogs and headlights and if you turn them on one at a time fogs first then headlights when you first start the car its fine or else ABS lights. After that its 50/50 and if you turn the lights on and then the car its fine. But I had 55w dual beam HID's that were attatched with a relay and so forth that never turned my ABS light on at all on the other stang.

Adam95GT · May 24, 2010

so what should i do? Start detaching wires on the HID's or the gauges?

nmcgrawj · May 25, 2010

Why dont you just run the lights on its own circuit instead of sharing electrical items on the same circuit?

toyman · May 25, 2010

nmcgrawj said:
Why dont you just run the lights on its own circuit instead of sharing electrical items on the same circuit?

+1. That was the drift in post #4. Each light has it's own fused power source through relays tripped by the headlight or fog switches. Read this article by Daniel Stern if you are serious about doing it properly.

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

HISSIN50 · May 25, 2010

In case there is a backfeed issue, Nate does make a good point. A relay should isolate things (a diode would too, but a relay is probably a better application). I put my lows and highs on relays awhile back and forget that they are not that way stock.

Thanks for the info and pics of Chris' ride. I'll read some old threads to see which housings (model number, etc) are good ones. I'd like to do it if it can be done relatively cheaply (for housings) and without blinding people. Thanks again.

Adam95GT · May 25, 2010

Like i said everything is ran on a separate power wire. The only thing is the headlight plugs into the harness... its a stangmods kit. i have never had a problem before. I think its related to my gauges being wired in to the defrost circuit.

95PGTTech · May 28, 2010

Ok update on this:

Gauges turn on with parking lights and no priming thus far.
Headlights come on pump primes.
Looked at the EVTM and checked the connectionson the factory harness. Everything is plugged in and looking good.
Unplug HIDS from headlight connection high beam indicator off. Replug highbeam indicator on and pump primes.
Unplug HID's Install normal headlight bulb.... No priming...

I think it has to do with the HID kit and not the cars or gauges wiring.

Anyone that read this does that sound right to you?

nmcgrawj · May 28, 2010

Adam95GT said:
Like i said everything is ran on a separate power wire. The only thing is the headlight plugs into the harness... its a stangmods kit. i have never had a problem before. I think its related to my gauges being wired in to the defrost circuit.

then everything isnt on its own circuit

95PGTTech · May 28, 2010

nmcgrawj said:
[/U]

then everything isnt on its own circuit

You said the lights

haha..

But yea i think i took them out of the equation

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