Hesitation...power loss

[Synned]

I have been having this problem for as long as I have had my car. I thought the problem went away but it was only because it was no longer summer.

During the summer, during the day my car runs so ****ty. When I get on it out of the hole it hesitates bad and then catches up to itself. The car loses all of its balls horribly. I don't understand why the temperature outside affects my car this much. Its only about 80* out, it shouldnt make my car feel like a 4 banger. Maybe a little more sluggish.
At night time it runs a lot better.
I have a feeling the computer is pulling out WAYYYY to much timing because of the heat.

What could cause this? A faulty ACT? A faulty ECT? I don't know.
I have no codes. Maybe its clogged cats or something? lol.

Thanks guys
Joe

 

[red95gtconvert]

My car used to run the same way when I first bought it because it was running hot and the ECU pulled alot of timing. I wired a switch to the low speed fan and it runs nice and cool now with no more bog from the computer pulling massive amounts of timing.

 

[Synned]

I don't think the car is running hot though. The temp gauge stays in the middle. I know the stock temp gauge isnt that accurate though.

What sensor does the ecu use to see the engine temp?

Should I try running locked timing to see if the problem goes away?
What timing should I try?

 

[95strokerPSU]

I believe it reads off of the ECT which is located on the front left of the lower intake. It's actually plugged into the heater hoses right there.

 

[Synned]

tee tee tee

 

[HISSIN50]

Joe, I seem to recall some similar issues in a thread from you some time back perhaps.

I agree with Dave - the two thermistors are what I'd check (ECT and IAT). You can check the resistance and/or voltage of each. I dont know if fox specs are the same as 5N95 specs though (I have fox specs if you want them).

If the IAT and ECT are clean and calibrated (I'd check calibration with the engine toasty - right when you're having issues)...............

I'd wanna know actual operating temps, if you can.

Do you have cold air entering your intake (or is it an open element under the hood)? If the latter, that's something to really look into.

Good luck Joe.

 

[Synned]

Joe, I seem to recall some similar issues in a thread from you some time back perhaps.

I agree with Dave - the two thermistors are what I'd check (ECT and IAT). You can check the resistance and/or voltage of each. I dont know if fox specs are the same as 5N95 specs though (I have fox specs if you want them).

If the IAT and ECT are clean and calibrated (I'd check calibration with the engine toasty - right when you're having issues)...............

I'd wanna know actual operating temps, if you can.

Do you have cold air entering your intake (or is it an open element under the hood)? If the latter, that's something to really look into.

Good luck Joe.

Yeah, I'll try to check those voltages tomorrow at the sensors..see what that tells me.

Right now I'm running the stock airbox system. Maybe I'll try keeping the engine cooler with the fan switch and see if it helps.

Thanks guys
Joe

 

[SeventyMach1]

Also, you may want to get you an accurate gauge to monitor the temps. The stocker is almost useless.

 

[Methodical]

Since the IAT and the ECT are cheap - $30 for both - at Autozone why not just replace them with new ones then you will now if they are the problem. It's probably a good thing to replace now anyway.

 

[Synned]

Since the IAT and the ECT are cheap - $30 for both - at Autozone why not just replace them with new ones then you will now if they are the problem. It's probably a good thing to replace now anyway.

Thats probably a good idea.


I want to see if the ecu is actually pulling timing though. If I set locked timing like 27* with the spout out it should stop.
Is 27* okay? Should i try 30*?
I ping on 12* so I want to try and stay safe. I'll put 94 in though.

 

[Methodical]

Thats probably a good idea.


I want to see if the ecu is actually pulling timing though. If I set locked timing like 27* with the spout out it should stop.
Is 27* okay? Should i try 30*?
I ping on 12* so I want to try and stay safe. I'll put 94 in though.

I think 27* would be fine/safe. I know for sure that the Cobra's Base spark table max timing at WOT is 27* which is why we Cobra's do/did not have the detonation problems. I've since changed that to 35* with the Tweecer and I am ok. So 27* should be fine.

 

[yellowstang1994]

I'd try to lock out the timing, when I bought my car unknowingly my timing was locked out and when I replaced my dist. and set the timing to stock and put the spout back in, thats when I learned what the word ping really meant, lol. Had problems ever since I did that.

 

[HISSIN50]

27* total timing should be rediculously safe. Right now, as soon as your SPOUT is plugged in, you go over 20* (from 12* SPOUT out, I go up to 24* SPOUT in). By 1500 RPM, I have 40* total timing.

I ran at 28* Locked-out for a while (so I could run cheap gas) and it did pretty good.

ONe thing worth mentioning is that Ford ECT and IAT sensors are best. Some of the parts store stuff isnt calibrated too well (it's hit or miss).

Good luck.

 

[Synned]

Well today I check the ACT sensor. It was about 90* out and the voltage was a little low.
1.72 volts across both wires, which according to jrichter means it should be around 120* outside.
I'm not sure if its really that hot in the intake tubing or if the sensor is just off.
My ECT was also very very low, but I guess the coolant is around 200* anyway

 

[HISSIN50]

Al, do you know what your IAT and ECT run at when your motor is hot? I cant remember what my IAT was reading [in 105*F ambient temps], and my ECT reading is in degrees (not volts).

I'll try and remember to take readings with my meter next time the car is hot.

 

[stprorolla49]

get an autometer to measure the water temp accurately...its DEFINATELY worth the money...

 

[jmhkas]

I have a post describing pretty much the same thing. Except my car is running a little warmer than normal, (at least that's what the guage is saying) It isn't getting too hot though. Could this possibly be the same problem?? What do you recommend? I have a thread up about this: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=643816 PLEASE HELP!!

 

[jmhkas]

also...how do you adjust timing like that?? (sorry guys, I'm a n00b)

 

[HISSIN50]

Jmhkas, welcome to the boards. In order to keep things easier to understand on the threads, it's nice to keep your questions on your own thread (especially since you have one).

Dont worry - you will get replies on yours. Otherwise, I find that things start to run together and I dont know what replies are for the original poster and which are for the secondary question-asker.

Keeping it separate actually allows people to help you better.

 

[Methodical]

Al, do you know what your IAT and ECT run at when your motor is hot? I cant remember what my IAT was reading [in 105*F ambient temps], and my ECT reading is in degrees (not volts).

I'll try and remember to take readings with my meter next time the car is hot.

Hissin, I've never checked my ECT or IAT volts since I've never had any problems. However, when I rebuilt the motor I just replaced both of them with the Autozone version. I agree the Ford one's are probably better. Now as far as engine coolant temperatures goes, I have my high speed fan kick on at 196*, via the Tweecer. Yesterday, I was running the AC and my temperature while idling reached about 210* and it was about 95* and high humidity here in DC, but while moving it was about 200* or just under 200*. Without the AC, the car hangs rightat 196* at idle and between 180 and 190* while moving. I was datalogging today but I did not have the ECT or IAT setup to be datalogged.