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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Hesitation...power loss

  • Thread starter Thread starter Synned
  • Start date Start date Jun 16, 2006
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Methodical

15 Year Member
Dec 1, 2003
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Clinton, MD
Jun 19, 2006
#21
  • Jun 19, 2006
  • #21
Synned said:
Well today I check the ACT sensor. It was about 90* out and the voltage was a little low.
1.72 volts across both wires, which according to jrichter means it should be around 120* outside.
I'm not sure if its really that hot in the intake tubing or if the sensor is just off.
My ECT was also very very low, but I guess the coolant is around 200* anyway
Click to expand...

You may already know this and have these figures but if you don't here they are:

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)

First check for any codes (I think Hissin mentioned this earlier). A bad ECT will set Code 116, 117, or 118

The resistance (ohm) values increases as the sensor temperature (ECT)decreases and decreases when the sensor temperature increases.

You should check the resistance value of the ECT when it is completely cold (50 to 65*F = 58,750 to 40,500 ohms) and then check at normal operating temperatures (180-220 = 3,600-1,840 ohms). You can also perform the test by placing the sensor in a pan of hot water (similar to testing a thermostat).

If those tests are negative check the reference voltage with the key on and engine not running and it should read approx. 5 volts.


Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT)

First check for any codes. A bad IAT will set codes 112, 113, or 114.

Low temperatures produces a high resistance value (ohm) and vice versa. Check the resistance of the IAT both cold and warm. The values are 68*F= 27.3 K-ohms and 212*F=2.0 K-ohms. Simply put the resistance when testing both cold and hot should exhibit a change, if no change then the IAT should be replaced. Also, check the reference voltage of the IAT and it should also be approx. 5 volts.
 
S

Synned

took tubgirl on a date and got banned
Mar 31, 2005
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Philly
Jul 29, 2006
#22
  • Jul 29, 2006
  • #22
Just to let you guys know, the problem is *solved*.

I say *solved* because it's more of a bandaid than a perfect solution.
I used two resistors instead of the IAT and now the car runs perfect. No hesitation, bogging, or horrible throttle response.
For some reason the computer was making my car run like that with hot ambient temperatures. Don't ask me why, I don't know...its the stock tune. The thing is, I don't think the IAT is actually bad...
Using 43k ohm total resistance tricks the computer to think its around 50* out.
I can now peel out when its 90* out, and I'm happy!
 
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