hey guys i'm starting a new motor

sn-95matt5-0

Member

Nov 6, 2006

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Jun 16, 2007

#1

• Jun 16, 2007

• #1

well for the last three months i've been looking for a 351w. well i came across 4 of them today. one was in a 1978 stepside. one was in a 83 f150, the third was at a guys shop and it came out of a 78 truck, and the fourth was in a 91 e series van.


alright i didnt get the 2 78 because i have heard about the bad castings

i didnt get the 83 because of the bad casting and the fact that the truck had been on fire and the carb was melted on it( i figured there was nothing good to EVER come from the motor again)

i did put a deposit on the van motor though and will be picking it up monday.

i figured parchisi used a 90 model f150 block the e series van shouldnt be any different and all i need is the block.

does anyone have any idea of the flywheel horsepower these things can hold before they start breaking. i was hoping to do a procharger in the future and try to get 650 at the wheels. is that alot to ask from a late model 351w block.

well thanks for any answers and words of incouragement. and wish me luck i'm off to start a HUGE project.:SNSign:

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

5,589

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98

Bethesda, MD

Aug 28, 2007

#2

• Aug 28, 2007

• #2

so did you get it? update please ...

a 351, even a later model one, should be fine up to that kind of power.

if you are going to boost it, i would consider keeping it at 351 cubes because i remember reading somewhere about when it is stroked, the longer stroke along with the boost can end up causing problems, but i'm not real clear on exactly what the problem is. so i guess i am saying just keep it in mind and educate us about it if you find anything out about it ...

 

Pokageek

Active Member

Jun 10, 2005

2,767

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46

MA, USA

Aug 28, 2007

#3

• Aug 28, 2007

• #3

I think that was KC and he was suggesting shorter stroke for boost simply b/c it spools up better...if I am thinking of the same post..?

 

sn-95matt5-0

Member

Nov 6, 2006

170

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Aug 28, 2007

#4

• Aug 28, 2007

• #4

well guys i'm working on the motor.
its in the shop right now and torn down to the block.

i ordered a forged scat kit through a local performance shop and after they gave me a cleveland kit and i sent it back they told me that it would be a month till i can get the windsor kit due to scat being on back order with windsor parts.

needless to say i got my money back and canceled that order. and i've been talking to my racing buddies and my engine builder.

my racing friends are telling me to go with the cast crank I-beam rods and make an all out motor and have fun with it.

my engine builder just says go with wat i want, and he will help me make it happen.

i'm torn between the ideas. i'm thinking of just taking him the block with the crank and rods and seeing wat he thinks about them. if they look good then i may leave it 351 for now and have a balanced fresh 351w with forged pistons by the next couple of weeks, and working on heads and an intake. and i may be able to have my motor built and waiting to go in by next summer. and if i'm wanting more then i could always build it better later and have the hard part already done and over with.

...or i could go ahead and spend the 1800 on the stroker kit and keep saving and prolong the build. for a while longer.

i'm confused, lol

but i know i will have atleast a 5.8 in my car i just dont know when lol.

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

5,589

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Bethesda, MD

Aug 29, 2007

#5

• Aug 29, 2007

• #5

the stock rods and crank can handle n/a power. for a power adder, go with forged stuff for both.

join hardcore50 and contact Mark O'Neal. he is the owner of probe (and coast high performance) and stands behind his stuff. a really stand up guy.

http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=41003

if it were me and money was an issue, i'd probably have it rebuilt stock sized and work on getting it in there, to solve all the fitment issues. then i'd save up a few thousand for a rebuild next year.

then later i would either get another block and have it built up the way you want and swap it in (selling the one that is in there), or pull the motor, rebuild it, and drop it back in because all the other problems related to getting it in there have already been solved.

 

Venom351R

Founding Member

Apr 27, 2002

4,548

41

98

MAINE

Aug 29, 2007

#6

• Aug 29, 2007

• #6

what do you plan on running for the heads/intake?

 

sn-95matt5-0

Member

Nov 6, 2006

170

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Aug 29, 2007

#7

• Aug 29, 2007

• #7

because of the procharger i wanted to put on i was planning on goin with edelbrock victor jr all the way around but now i may be looking at a cobra intake with a 351w lower to help more with some low end torque because the victor jr isnt supposed to pull till 3k rpms.

i thought about a typhoon but i have heard bad things about fitment issues with alot of professional products merchandise.

i'm goin with victor jr heads because they have such a large combustion chamber and they are a 210cc head. and the price is alot better for them than afr and trick flow. those 2 run about 2300 for a pair where the victor jrs run 530 each (bare and my engine builder can dress them pretty cheap) plus (i believe is s/n is s351saleen) is pushing 650 to the tires with a supercharged 408w with these heads.

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

5,589

9

98

Bethesda, MD

Aug 29, 2007

#8

• Aug 29, 2007

• #8

are the victor juniors iron or aluminum? i have some ported and o-ringed windsor senior heads (iron) sitting in my basement waiting for some action. i was going to use them for a 331 build i was going to do with the block that came out of my car, but that is now on hold indefinately. new .600" springs and everything. at this point, i'd sell them for $700 shipped just to get them out of my basement. if you happen to be interested in them, email me at curlbud-stangnet@yahoo.com

 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member

Sep 28, 2003

3,651

4

68

Indianapolis, IN

Aug 29, 2007

#9

• Aug 29, 2007

• #9

Vic Jr's are aluminum. And with a 351, i highly doubt low end will be slacking with that intake, but then again im not an engine builder

IMO Get a custom cam and they'll tell u what will be best to run. I know Jay Allen was an advocate for running BIG parts and making the cam make it all work how u want it to.

Good luck

 

reddy351

10 Year Member

Jun 13, 2006

560

12

38

Columbus, Ohio

Aug 29, 2007

#10

• Aug 29, 2007

• #10

You'll be fine with 351 cubes. Especially if it gets the car on the road sooner.

You're right about getting some of the little things out of the way, like the oil pan, headers, distributor and such. You will just be swapping "like for like" when you decide to go bigger.

Your buddies are right about simple mods to make power. The cast cranks are pretty darned good for an N/A combo. Put some inexpensive H-beam rods and some forged pistons in there and it should last, even with a nice (125-150 shot) dose of nitrous. (If you choose to use it.) Don't "spare expense" on machine work.

A custom cam is a really good idea, too. When you are done with it all, you can prolly re-coup a good portion of your money spent by selling the engine when you do end up swapping to more cubes.

Good luck with your decision! Let us know how it goes.

 

sn-95matt5-0

Member

Nov 6, 2006

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Sep 15, 2007

#11

• Sep 15, 2007

• #11

well the motor is officially at the machine shop. its goin to be a 351w bored .030 over
with some J.E pistons. stock rods stock crank....

i'm putting a good bit of money in the machine work getting the block vatted, decked, line honed and bored and hone, and also getting the cranked turned rods reconditioned and balanced with the new pistons.

i'm wanting to use the victor jr heads right now because the are aluminum and much lighter than the ones that blackvert have but the offer is very much appreciated and i may end all callin you up on it before this motor is done. after all i started this motor out wanting a procharged forged 408w with afr 225 heads and a hogan intake. i guess budgets kick everyones butt sometimes dont they. lol.

but i still believe that this should be a hard pulling motor and later done the road i plan to add a power adder, and even step up to a dart block.but that will be after i'm out of college, working and living in my own house.

but i guess the most important part is i am goin through with my build and i will be getting the shortblock back by the end of the month.

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

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Sep 15, 2007

#12

• Sep 15, 2007

• #12

good news. let us kwow how it goes.

 

SublimeRT

Member

Jan 25, 2003

230

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Clarksville, TN

Sep 15, 2007

#13

• Sep 15, 2007

• #13

BlackVert said:

good news. let us kwow how it goes.

Click to expand...

+1. I'm excited to see how this turns out.

 

rj95svt

Member

Jan 11, 2007

422

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Hayden, AL

Sep 16, 2007

#14

• Sep 16, 2007

• #14

Nice!!! I am gonna have to come see this thing when you get it done.

One option you might want to look into is possibly getting some eagle sir rods rather than spending money on the stock ones It may not end up costing much more. By the time you hone the small end of the stock rods for the floating piston pins buy new rod bolts have the rods resized and magnafluxed you might could just buy the eagle rods that come ready to go no machine work required and they'll be stronger to boot. Just something else to look at. I'm running a set in a 460.

Here's you a link http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2D5956FB&autoview=sku

 

sn-95matt5-0

Member

Nov 6, 2006

170

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Sep 16, 2007

#15

• Sep 16, 2007

• #15

thanks man i may get those. i didnt see those when i was checking for rods and all the ones i was looking at were up closer to $500(they were h-beam though) i will call my engine builder tomorrow and see if he's started on my stuff yet. if not i may go ahead and order those with my ford racing oil pan.

thanks for the words of encouragement guys it makes me feel alot better about my project i've had alot of peeps telling me that i was stupid for doin it, i should buy a newer mod motor stang, it couldnt be completed and remain a street car, or that i just can't do it (because i'm young and inexperienced with engine building i guess).

 

rj95svt

Member

Jan 11, 2007

422

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16

Hayden, AL

Sep 17, 2007

#16

• Sep 17, 2007

• #16

Yeah the SIR rods are a good option over the stockers at a good price. The h beams are expensive but they are great rods.

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

5,589

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98

Bethesda, MD

Oct 23, 2007

#17

• Oct 23, 2007

• #17

ttt

 

sn-95matt5-0

Member

Nov 6, 2006

170

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Oct 23, 2007

#18

• Oct 23, 2007

• #18

well i got the 351w in my workshop right now.

i'm saving for the H/C/I and looking for good deals on parts.

so far all i got gathered is the shortblock, 39 lb injectors and Lmaf.(thanks Punisher302 for injectors and maf)

and thats about as far as i am at the moment. i'm at a stand still because i'm not making as much money as i used to because i'm in class now but its slowly coming together. is there any tips for maintaining a shortblock without heads intake or oilpan. do i need to go ahead and by a timing cover so i can install my oilpan or will it be ok. i go out there if not every day every other day and rotated the motor and i keep a thin coat of oil on the cylinder walls. i also have it covered with a CLEAN garbage bag, rapped in a blanket and another garbage bag pulled tightly ontop of that. its not really hot or cold right now (sometimes it gets down into the 50s) am i doing everything right or should i be doin something different?

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

5,589

9

98

Bethesda, MD

Oct 23, 2007

#19

• Oct 23, 2007

• #19

i started a thread for you over here:

http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=42265

those guys can definately tell us the right way to preserve a block

 

sn-95matt5-0

Member

Nov 6, 2006

170

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Oct 23, 2007

#20

• Oct 23, 2007

• #20

hey man i really appreciate you doin that for me..

i may try that do you think it would make any difference that the shortblock is assembled