High Idling????

[HISSIN50]

After i got home from a pretty long drive bout 20 miles, i unpluged the iac, and it ran the sameway. as it was with it pluged in. what does that mean?

If the idle was still screwing around and surging with the IAC disconnected, the IAC is not the issue. Check and recheck for vac leaks.

Good luck bud.

 

[urban96]

also if you recently had your battery disconnected for a few mins it may just be your ECU learning stuff over again and should go back to normal with more miles

also check that IAC bleeder screw, you may need to tighten that some

 

[final5-0]

I'll be happy to offer you some things to try

I do see two things being talked about in this thread btw

One is the act or iat or whatever you wanna call it

I have seen some say they made sure the surrounding material around the sensor itself was open to air flow of the intake tract and that made a difference as opposed to the complete sensor being positioned closed to air flow.

Just info I'm passing on as I have no data about this. btw ... I have always positioned mine ... open to the air flow.

As for the clocking of the maf ......................

You don't see that on our board too much as it is more difficult to do because of the SN95 flange mount style of maf ... which btw .... I ditched when I went to my Pro M.
Always gotta have ... most possible options

anyway ... I digress

Clocking the maf can do wonders and I have been at several dyno pulls where I've seen this done and the problem child Stang settled right down and idled like a good little boy.

Now .......... on to your hanging idle

#1 ... Welcome to the world of drivibality issues due to h/c/i

What you are dealing with is this ..........
Your pcm can't figure out what to do to help you
because
h/c/i has thrown everything beyond its ability to compensate

Short of pcm value manipulation ................

Here are a few things you can try

1 clean maf
2 clock maf
3 ensure isc is working correctly
4 ensure act is open to air flow
5 adjust air bleed on tb ... if you got one
6 adjust tb plate stop screw
NOTE: 5 & 6 kinda work together
7 ensure there are NO vacuum leaks
8 restrictor plate doo dad ... some have had positive results

Maybe some of that stuff will work for you

Here is the most important part ............. IMHO

After you make a change when trying to find a more stable idle

The pcm MAY be able to help you
BUT
It takes a while
AND
Contrary to popular belief ..................
PCM Reset is MOST LIKELY not gonna speed up the process

Resetting the pcm between changes is advisable
but still
two things gotta happen until you get the full benefit ...... if any
1 you gotta give it time to gather enough data points for those conditions
2 you gotta then give it time to make its adjustments

Bottom Line is this ................

I'd drive it around a couple of days between changes to see how much help that little silver box is gonna give you

Good Luck & This is the price you pay for .....................

MORE POWER

Grady

 

[Guero]

the car was idling fine, before and after i disconnected it. now what does that mean???

 

[final5-0]

the car was idling fine, before and after i disconnected it. now what does that mean???

If you are talking about the car does not die
or
at LEAST stumble a good bit when you disco the isc

You got your tb plate stop screw too far open

If that ain't what you're talkin about

WELL HECK ... thats how it oughta work anyway

Grady