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High Oil Pressure And Temperature Gauge

  • Thread starter Thread starter millhouse
  • Start date Start date Dec 10, 2014

millhouse

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Dec 10, 2014
#1
  • Dec 10, 2014
  • #1
I just picked up a 95 GT Vert that is displaying odd gauge behavior.

When cold, the temperature gauge reads normal and the oil pressure gauge reads high (L on the gauge). After warmed up, the temperature fluctuates (over a period of a few seconds) from A to fully pegged and the oil pressure gauge reads almost in the red. Of course, when the temperature is pegged in the red, the car is not overheating.

The engine is mostly stock with the exception of an underdrive crank pulley (as well as a TB and CAI). This of course is causing the voltage to read low at idle and normal while cruising.

I'm picking up a stock pulley today and plan on swapping that out, but the issue almost sounds more ground related than anything else.

With that said, with the exception of the battery and engine ground, where are the other points of interest for an issue like this?


 

jrichker

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Does the reading go up when you turn on the headlights & vent blower on?
 

millhouse

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jrichker said:
Does the reading go up when you turn on the headlights & vent blower on?
Click to expand...

It's tough to say, as I seem to be only driving with the lights and heat on. I will say that the drive home yesterday with the headlights off gave the same behavior, while the drive to work this morning wasn't quite as bad.
 

millhouse

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#4
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Update:

The car no longer starts with the starter. When attempted, I get a clicking sound and a small puff of smoke rises out of the center console ebrake area.

I am able to push start it via popping the clutch. I have pulled the started and verified it's functional. Battery voltage is fine.

The only other thing I can think of is new battery cables and a new engine ground strap.

What else am I missing?
 

jrichker

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You have some bad grounds.

Grounds

Revised 28-Oct-2012 to add signal ground description & possible problems if it is bad

Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computer controlled engines. In an automobile, the ground is the return path for power to get back to the alternator and battery.

Make sure that all the ground places are clean and shiny bare metal: no paint, no corrosion.

1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator.


2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. The clue to a bad ground here is that the temp gauge goes up as you add electrical load such as heater, lights and A/C.

Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just as much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.

The picture shows the common ground point for the battery , computer, & extra 3G alternator ground wire as described above in paragraph 2. A screwdriver points to the bolt that is the common ground point.

The battery common ground is a 10 gauge pigtail with the computer ground attached to it.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972


Correct negative battery ground cable.


3.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it controls internally: it comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to its proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery.
In 86-90 model cars, it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire.
In 91-95 model cars it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/white wire.
You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness.

All the grounds listed in items 1,2 & 3 need to bolt to clean, shiny bare metal. A wire brush or some fine sandpaper is the best thing to use to clean the ground connections.


4.) All the sensors have a common separate signal ground. This includes the TPS, ACT, EGR, BAP, & VSS sensors. This ground is inside the computer and connects pin 46 to pins 40 & 60, which are the main computer grounds. If this internal computer ground gets damaged, you won't be able to dump codes and the car will have idle/stall/ performance problems

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground) coming from the computer. This is different and separate from the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on back of the cylinder head.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module ground terminates inside the computer.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.


See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. Be sure to have the maximum load on a circuit when testing voltage drops across connections. As current across a defective or weak connection, increases so does the voltage drop. A circuit or connection may check out good with no load or minimal load, but show up bad under maximum load conditions. .

Voltage drops should not exceed the following:
200 mV Wire or cable
300 mV Switch
100 mV Ground
0 mV to <50 mV Sensor Connections
0.0V bolt together connections



Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver. If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.
 

millhouse

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#6
  • Dec 10, 2014
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Thanks!

That's about what I figured. There are a few more grounds to check than I realized though.
 

millhouse

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Dec 13, 2014
#7
  • Dec 13, 2014
  • #7
I replaced the main grounds with 2 gauge wire and it's still happening. I'm beginning to think the starter that tested good is actually bad (it appears to be the original).
 

jrichker

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  • Dec 13, 2014
  • #8
Did you do the voltage drop tests? They will find problems that are not visible with visual inspection.
Remember that voltage drop tests have to be run with the current load the wires and connections normally carry.
If it is the starter circuit, you have to do the testing while cranking the engine with the starter.
 

millhouse

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Dec 13, 2014
#9
  • Dec 13, 2014
  • #9
Starter fixed it. I threw on a couple more grounds to be safe.
 
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