High Pitched Noise from Upper Intake Manifold

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savegoodautonfg

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#1

• Jul 10, 2006

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I was gonna forget about it bc the car is running fine but the noise just is the most annoying/irrating noise in the world. its not a vacuum leak noise at all. my mechanic looked at it and thought he fixed it and he did'nt. he can't even figure this out. so yesterday i decided to take a hose and put one side in my ear and the other side around the intake manifold searching for the noise and the holes that are on the EGR Valve i put the hose up to one of the holes and the noise is coming out of there the loudest then any other place and then i guess it amplifies into the upper intake manifold. it only occurs at idle and you can hear it over the exhaust. does anyone have any ideas. could the EGR be the problem.

Also, to add when i pulled the engine codes about last week I got code 33 which is an EGR Valve code.

Any ideas will be appreciated since i am desperate on this matter.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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#2

• Jul 10, 2006

• #2

You're on the right track.
I'd want to ensure that someone didnt inadvertantly connect a vac line to the EGR (there actually are two coolant lines going to the EGR housing, not vac lines).

Make sure the EGR is functioning as it should - check the vac line to the EGR valve itself. Jrichker has some nifty testing techniques for doing so.

Cleaning the EGR valve is always a decent idea, IMHO.

Good luck.

 

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savegoodautonfg

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Is it possible that the EGR could be the problem cuz if so ill get a used one from someone.

 

jgfiveoh

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#4

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just so you know, the egr has is not supposed to have any effect at idle. code 33 is egr valve opening not detected. check the vacuum line like hissin suggested first. if this isn't the problem then it could be a bad sensor, corrosion in the connection of the sensor, or simply the egr valve is bad or really dirty. take it off and clean it thoroughly. a good way to check and see if it is functioning right is to hook up a handheld vacuum pump to it and pump it with vacuum and see if and how easily the valve opens(sometimes they get very dirty and stick), as well as make sure that the valve will hold vacuum (if not the diaphram is bad and you need a new egr valve. i also saw that you were looking for an IAC motor, have you taken your other one off and cleaned it really good? they too get dirty and can stick like the egr. try this stuff out and let us know

 

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savegoodautonfg

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The vacuum line looks fine but i dont believe it is getting any vacuum at idle. but one thing i do know is i sprayed carb cleaner in the holes in the EGR and the noise seems like its goes away while your spraying it.

 

jgfiveoh

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#6

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it should not have vacuum at idle, or at least very little. you should definitely take it off and vacuum check it to see if the diaphram is bad. if the egr valve won't hod a constant vac. replace it.

 

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savegoodautonfg

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but one thing i do know is i sprayed carb cleaner in the holes in the EGR and the noise seems like its goes away while your spraying it.

 

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savegoodautonfg

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#8

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• #8

bump

 

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seijirou

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#9

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okay well the holes in the egr are exposed to the diaphram, on the other side of that diaphram is a nice big hole into the intake. What you should do is put vaccum to the egr valve and see if it's working or not, however, what you describe sounds like there is a pinhole in the diaphram and subsequently a very small vaccum leak. A hole that small will whistle like a sob as air passes through it. It's going away when you spray carb cleaner on it because the cleaner is plugging the hole temporarily.

You can verify this problem by vaccum testing the egr valve like was suggested several times earlier. If it does not open with vaccum, you do have a bad diaphram and the egr valve needs to be replaced.

Let us know how it goes

 

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savegoodautonfg

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seijirou said:

okay well the holes in the egr are exposed to the diaphram, on the other side of that diaphram is a nice big hole into the intake. What you should do is put vaccum to the egr valve and see if it's working or not, however, what you describe sounds like there is a pinhole in the diaphram and subsequently a very small vaccum leak. A hole that small will whistle like a sob as air passes through it. It's going away when you spray carb cleaner on it because the cleaner is plugging the hole temporarily.

You can verify this problem by vaccum testing the egr valve like was suggested several times earlier. If it does not open with vaccum, you do have a bad diaphram and the egr valve needs to be replaced.

Let us know how it goes

Click to expand...

when your talking about the diaphram is in the EGR Valve?

 

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seijirou

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Jul 29, 2006

#11

• Jul 29, 2006

• #11

savegoodautonfg said:

when your talking about the diaphram is in the EGR Valve?

Click to expand...

Yes.

When you're spraying carb cleaner through the holes in the egr valve, you're spraying it directly on the diaphram.

 

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savegoodautonfg

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#12

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SO all it might need it a new EGR which i just bought from someone on stang net.

 

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savegoodautonfg

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#13

• Aug 24, 2006

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bump, replaced EGR Valve and still noise is there. any other ideas guys?

I know someone has to have more ideas

 

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ilow5oh

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#14

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• #14

Is the TB stock? I have a 70 MM BBK tb and EGR and I get a very high pitched whistle. This is because the intake is not 70 mm and hence the noise. I will be replacing the intake in the winter so not worrying about it for now.. just thought I would throw that out there regardless..
cheers

 

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savegoodautonfg

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#15

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Hey man.

question for you

i was on professional products website looking at intakes. none of them said nething about what mm they are.

 

88Stang331

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#16

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• #16

Your whistling noise is most deffinately the Throttle body/EGR because it is not the same size is the inlet to the upper intake manifold.

 

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savegoodautonfg

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#17

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• #17

Can i have a link to the upper intake manifold with a bigger inlet opening.

 

millhouse

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#18

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• #18

It sounds like a vacuum leak for sure. I'd try to re-tighten the upper to lower intake bolts a bit. I have an issue with some of the bolts on my upper to lower. I didn’t have them all tightened the last time I put the upper back on…and there was a horrendous whistle noise coming from the intake.

 

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savegoodautonfg

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#19

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Where can i find upper and lower intakes with the 70mm opening?

 

millhouse

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#20

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savegoodautonfg said:

Where can i find upper and lower intakes with the 70mm opening?

Click to expand...

Whoa...two different things there. The upper intake is...well, the upper intake. It's the most pronounced thing on your engine. It is connected to the lower intake via 6 bolts. Just go over them one at a time and snug them up. If you want to...pick up some starting fluid from the parts store and spray it around the upper to lower connection. What your listening for is a raise in rpm. If you hear it...your getting close to the source of the problem.

As far as the 70mm opening goes...I believe 88Stang331 is talking about a mismatch in size between the tb/egr and the upper intake. I wouldnt think that it would be the source of the sound however as many people run them with no issues. It could be a small vacuum leak though between the throttle body to egr plate...or the egr plate to the upper intake. Again...spray the starting fluid around these areas to try to pinpoint the cause.