i've got a 347 with a hydraulic roller from cam motion. gt-40 heads, cobra manifold, 65mm tb etc...
i'm currently using ford replacement roller lifters.
i'm going to go with a high rpm upgrade. trick flow "r" heads, edelbrock victor 5.0 maifold, large tb etc....
my engine builder suggested i switch to a solid lifter as i plan to spin the engine to 7000 or so.
i'd look into a solid lifter if i was you. at least discuss it with your machinist/engine guy.
7000rpm is fine for a hydraulic setup. I know they make lifters that will go there no problem, they are also crazy expensive and would be cheaper to go solid roller. However, i dont want the added maintenance of a solid roller. Nor do I want the reduced driveablity with them either. If this was a 351w or an aftermarket block i would. But on a 420rwhp 347, hydraulics will fit the bill just fine.Not to mention solid would reduced the life of a stock 8.2 block even more. This thread was for a decent priced alternative.
First the motor isnt a 50 imbalance, second solid rollers transmit ALOT of vibrations into the block. When that cam is moving at high speeds and its metal to metal its acting like a big tuning fork, and the cam WILL be flexing even with a roller setup, all that is transmitted into the block.why will a solid lifter shorten the block life?
i'd argue that 7000 rpm with a 50oz. imbalance would shorten the block life.
First the motor isnt a 0 imbalance, second solid rollers transmit ALOT of vibrations into the block. When that cam is moving at high speeds and its metal to metal its acting like a big tuning fork, and the cam WILL be flexing even with a roller setup, all that is transmitted into the block.
pure street guys spin the stock lifters to 9000+ rpms... as per ryan hecox out of the box into the motor...
pure street guys spin the stock lifters to 9000+ rpms... as per ryan hecox out of the box into the motor...
I dont know where i said stock internals. Second the "0" was a typo, allow me to fix that.WOW! i didn't think you had the bottom end "zero" balanced (most folks don't on a stock block / crank / rod setup and that's why i said 50 oz. imbalance) and unless you did, you will have problems keeping a stock block together at 7000 rpm!
are you sure you know what you are talking about? maybe you should seek the help of a knowledgeable machine shop.
tunning fork ??????? cam flexing??????
let me sum it up for you....... STOCK BLOCK.......7000 RPM! forget about the cam flexing. camshaft harmonics will be the least of your problems.
Comp Cams link bar lifters... It wasn't just a suggestion. They ARE high RPM hydraulic roller lifters. you may have overlooked my original reply with the dip**** that went off topic.
Good for some is not enough for othersI was picking my buddies brain at his shop today(plenty of pushrod experience, been doing it long enough that some here weren't even born yet) on the lifter and high rev engine topic, especially since there seems to be quite a few interested in it these days.
He feels it can be done, but not on any type of reasonable budget. His claim, ya it can be done, but to do it right you will spend far more than it's worth, cap the rpm at 6500 or so, and be happy, any higher isn't worth the money or headaches.
I gathered a bit of info from him.
First off, he feels link bar lifters do little good other than let you retrofit them in blocks that can't use the spider.
He's tried it every which way, including custom modded lifters, rhoades, comp cams (who grinds all his custom cams), and solids.
None of which he has been thrilled with (on stock blocks), especially on cars meant to do anything other than the quarter mile.
As far as solid setups, he's definitely anti on anything other than a race block. Last time i personally saw it attempted, it was on a B block, and it just wouldn't stay together properly for long, the high rpm didn't destroy it, but caused issues.
Switched to an R, and it was and still is fine as of today (same rotating assembly).
Not my thoughts, just someone with some experience's opinion, take it or leave it.
I've known him for almost 20 years now, and i'd say if you came to him with 7000rpm in mind, he'd either talk you out of it, or refuse to be a part of it.
I trust his opinion, but that obviously doesn't mean you have to, just some friendly thoughts on the topic.
Me personally, my last engine ran right to the rev limiter, and that was good enough for me.
I didnt see those, I was given a good price on some Morel Link Bar lifters however from Ed at FTI.I would at least spend the few extra dollars and get the short travel lifters. Better RPM capabilty.
COMP Cams: Short Travel Race Lifters; Ford Small Block
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