Hissin (ccrm update?)

94' Five.0

Founding Member
Jun 11, 2002
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16
Raleigh, NC
I came across one of your posts while searching for info on ccrm problems. You mentioned that you were trying to do some research on why the high speed of your fan wasn't kicking on. Well as it turns out I've run into a very similar problem. My high speed was never turning on, both with and without the AC. I ended up wiring a standalone relay with a switch directly to the high side of the fan. It works fine but my temporary solution is turning out to be more permanent than I intended.

AFAIK the low speed was working ok through the ccrm, so I'm not sure if the fan module gave out or not. Did you ever find anything more about this issue? I've found a few replacement ccrm's from varying locations. Part F6SF-12B577-AA ? Anyway, if replacing the ccrm is the only real solution, is it as simple as swapping them out? I'm a little hesitant about ripping out modules and the like.

Thanks
 
Hey,

In my case, the best I could figure was that I lost the high-speed driver in the PCM. I now use a Delta controller (arguably the best controller you can buy).

If you feel like checking wires, here's a tech note on CCRM testing. And here's a cooling system tech note which touches upon fan control issues a little bit.

The part number you listed should work well - it's one I have used.

WIth your fan as it is, you need to be cognizant of having both fan speeds engaged at once (this will wipe out the fan motor, and it creates a large draw).

Does your low speed come on with the AC turned on? If so, you could do another temporary solution, using your relay to power high speed. On the relay, 85 is ground, 86 is the low speed wire going to the fan motor (your fan motor connector is disconnected and you use a homemade harness), 30 is fused battery power and 87 goes to the fan's high speed terminal). The would best be done with a 75 amp Bosch relay give the large start-up draw with these fans. I'd also use a reverse-biased flyback diode to help the relay contacts.

I recently drew up a high/low and AC input fan controller schematic for a bud. It requires 3 relays but should work ok if one is good with wiring (a fan controller isnt a time to learn how to wire up a harness, given the fire issues. That was not directed at 94' Five.O but just a statement in general).

Sorry to not have better info for you. It was kind of a pain to figure my issue out. I ended up deductively reaching my conclusion (I had a hard time finding info about how the solid-state EDF module functions, so that was a variable. Now I had multiple variables).

Let me know if I can help otherwise - I'm fairly decent with this stuff.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. It's been awhile since the ccrm was even connected to the fan, but if I remember correctly the low side came on at operating temp. I currently just have the high side hard wired with it's own relay and switch (low speed is disconnected). I don't figure kicking the fan on and off to instant high speed is all that great for the motor either.

As of now it's my only option though. The cooling system is original minus a 180 deg t-stat. Even on cool days (50-60) the only way to maintain the temp around it's usual operating level (between N and O on the factory guage) is to run the fan on high speed constantly. Thats even with no AC. My compressor grinds like crazy when the clutch tries to engage. Heh, I actually made another post on the first page somewhere about compressor recommendations.

I was already planning on swapping out the radiator, pump, and hoses. Maybe I should look into an aftermarket fan control in the process. The only reason I like the idea of swapping out the ccrm is to keep things simple. If it can reliably control the fan than thats good enough for me.
 
Before buying a new CCRM, I'd recommend doing a little testing. You can disconnect the AC clutch wiring connector and turn on the AC. Your AC circuit should still energize (LPCS, WOT relay in the CCRM, and the fan driver). If Pin 17 doesnt show continuity to ground, that's an issue the CCRM won't fix.

And if Pin 14 doesnt show 12 volts at about 208*F+, that's another Non-CCRM issue.

The stand-alone controller is how I'd go personally, but I'm not a melvin about having stuff OEM (and I like to tinker). You can do a DC controller, Spal PWM controller or consider just using a thermoswitch to control a relay. I have a fair amount of info and schematics (some homemade, some not) around if you decide which route you'd like to go (if you do that at all).

It sounds like you are going to need to confirm operating temps and then do some cooling system work before next summer.
Good luck.