Hissin (ccrm update?)

I changed my CCRM a while back. Fixed my problem and got rid of a fuel pump relay code I had.

And its not hard at all to change.

If your going to buy one a got a brand new that was only used for like a mile for 100 bucks

Guero said:

If your going to buy one a got a brand new that was only used for like a mile for 100 bucks

Click to expand...

I got mine used for $20

Guero said:

If your going to buy one a got a brand new that was only used for like a mile for 100 bucks

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I got one at just about that price from the ford dealer...

Hey,

In my case, the best I could figure was that I lost the high-speed driver in the PCM. I now use a Delta controller (arguably the best controller you can buy).

If you feel like checking wires, here's a tech note on CCRM testing. And here's a cooling system tech note which touches upon fan control issues a little bit.

The part number you listed should work well - it's one I have used.

WIth your fan as it is, you need to be cognizant of having both fan speeds engaged at once (this will wipe out the fan motor, and it creates a large draw).

Does your low speed come on with the AC turned on? If so, you could do another temporary solution, using your relay to power high speed. On the relay, 85 is ground, 86 is the low speed wire going to the fan motor (your fan motor connector is disconnected and you use a homemade harness), 30 is fused battery power and 87 goes to the fan's high speed terminal). The would best be done with a 75 amp Bosch relay give the large start-up draw with these fans. I'd also use a reverse-biased flyback diode to help the relay contacts.

I recently drew up a high/low and AC input fan controller schematic for a bud. It requires 3 relays but should work ok if one is good with wiring (a fan controller isnt a time to learn how to wire up a harness, given the fire issues. That was not directed at 94' Five.O but just a statement in general).

Sorry to not have better info for you. It was kind of a pain to figure my issue out. I ended up deductively reaching my conclusion (I had a hard time finding info about how the solid-state EDF module functions, so that was a variable. Now I had multiple variables).

Let me know if I can help otherwise - I'm fairly decent with this stuff.

Synned said:

I'm pretty sure I got one at just about that price from the ford dealer...

Click to expand...

Nope there 180....

Before buying a new CCRM, I'd recommend doing a little testing. You can disconnect the AC clutch wiring connector and turn on the AC. Your AC circuit should still energize (LPCS, WOT relay in the CCRM, and the fan driver). If Pin 17 doesnt show continuity to ground, that's an issue the CCRM won't fix.

And if Pin 14 doesnt show 12 volts at about 208*F+, that's another Non-CCRM issue.

The stand-alone controller is how I'd go personally, but I'm not a melvin about having stuff OEM (and I like to tinker). You can do a DC controller, Spal PWM controller or consider just using a thermoswitch to control a relay. I have a fair amount of info and schematics (some homemade, some not) around if you decide which route you'd like to go (if you do that at all).

It sounds like you are going to need to confirm operating temps and then do some cooling system work before next summer.
Good luck.