Horn problem

wlewis · Nov 10, 2008

I'm trying to fix a horn problem with my 65 woodgrain steering wheel car. I've removed the steering wheel and jumped the two horn brushes together and horn works fine, telling me problem is in the wheel. I've replaced both horn rings and have adjusted the screw/springs every way posssible, but it still doesn't work. Aside from not having the screws adjusted properly, my guess is that the two brushes must be worn down so that they don't make contact with the two rings in the steering wheel. No one seems to sell replacement brushes. The only brush I've found in any catalog are the single brushes for generator cars.
Does anyone on this forum have a suggestion?
Walter

jikelly · Nov 12, 2008

I wish I could help you with this one.

Is there a way for you to add material to the contacts in the wheel to ensure that they are completing the circuit?

Tim65GT · Nov 12, 2008

wlewis:

Horn problem
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I've removed the steering wheel and jumped the two horn brushes together and horn works fine, telling me problem is in the wheel.

Can you pull the contact/brushes out a little more? In other words, are the springs pushing them out all the way? If not, the springs are weak from age or they may have been shorted out at one time. I did that on mine, and the dang spring glowed red like a heating element. So, disconnect the battery first.

I replaced the weak spring with a similar one (I'm one of those people who doesn't throw little things away) and it worked good.

Another thing... have you removed/replaced any parts lately such as steering wheel, steering box, column or rag joint? This will effect the steering shaft position and the gap between the wheel and the column.

wlewis · Nov 12, 2008

Here's the lastest: With the steering removed from the car, I adjusted the rings to whereby pressing the horn buttons would close the contacts between the rings. I used a volt/ohm meter to confirm the ring contacts were completing the circuit. Everthing appeared to be working while the wheel was off the car, even though the contacts were very sensitive. When I reinstalled the wheel, the horn would go off merely by turning the wheel slightly in either direction and not by pressing any of the 3 horn buttons. That tells me the brushes are ok and the clearance between the brushes and rings are if anything, too close. As of now, the whell is mounted on the car, but the horn buttons do not activate the horn, yet I can press any of the 3 adjustment screws (the hub is not installed) and the horn blows. I'm at a loss as to what to do next.

Tim65GT · Nov 13, 2008

When I reinstalled the wheel, the horn would go off merely by turning the wheel slightly in either direction

Do the pin/contacts have a lot of play left/right, up/down? maybe the signal switch is worn allowing the pins/contacts to move when the wheel is turned touching the same ring.

yet I can press any of the 3 adjustment screws

I'm not familiar with that area of the steering wheel. What adjustment screws? Can you post a picture?

wlewis · Nov 13, 2008

I'm too computer challenged to know how to post pictures. When removing the steering wheel hub, you'll see three adjustment screws. Each screw has a spring between the screw head and the plate through which the screw protrudes. On the backside of the plate, is one of the two contact rings that the screw is fastened to. The spring keeps tention on the contact ring and keeps it in place when the screw is loostened. Adjusting the screws changes the distance between the two contact rings.
Since I've already replaced the rings, I'm thinking about now replacing the blinker switch that inclues the brushes. As Tim suggested, perhaps my brushes are moving slightly from one side to another. The downside to replacing the blinker switch is having to run the many wires down through the steering column. but luckily, I have friend who can do that for me.

wlewis · Dec 17, 2008

Tim, you were right about the gap. After replacing the rings, and brushes/turn signal assembly, the horn still didn't work and I noticed the brushes were not contacting the rings. Thus the gap. I was successful in adjusting the column outward, towards the wheel, therefore reducing the gap between the column and wheel hub to about 1/8". Horn works now, but I notice a spark inside the wheel hub everytime you blow the horn. It's only noticeble because I haven't re installed the steering wheel center hub. Also, when the door is open during horn testing, I notice the courtesy lites blinking when the sparking occurs. Doesn't appear that all is right. Any ideas?
Walter

Tim65GT · Dec 17, 2008

wlewis:

Horn works now, but I notice a spark inside the wheel hub everytime you blow the horn. It's only noticeble because I haven't re installed the steering wheel center hub. Also, when the door is open during horn testing, I notice the courtesy lites blinking when the sparking occurs. Doesn't appear that all is right. Any ideas?
Walter

You may have a bad horn which is drawing too much current. Unplug one at a time and see what effect it has.

It may go away after the contacts have had time to "seat" on the ring.

When I re-wired my car, I included a relay for the horns, so now it only has the small relay current going throught the horn contacts and the high current to the horns is handled by the contacts in the relay.

wlewis · Dec 17, 2008

Great ideas Tim! Many thanks for your help!

Tim65GT · Dec 17, 2008

wlewis
Great ideas Tim! Many thanks for your help!

No Problem. If you do decide to wire in a relay, here are a couple diagrams.

The top one uses a switched hot output and the bottom is if you want to have a ground switched relay.

wlewis · Dec 18, 2008

I tried the horn last nite, and the spark was smaller and only occurred once. Maybe the contacts are seating. I'll try again over the weekend and if the sparking continues, I'll try disconecting the horns and go the relay route if necesary. I sure appreciate your help, Tim!
Walter

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