castine917
Member
Whenever I see an issue that is temp related I start checking vapor lock and temp sensor. Your problem would lead me to look at temp sensor.
Hot Stalling Issues
- Thread starter Chuckman
- Start date
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still having this hot stalling issue. i put another NEW egr valve on it, and the code 34 finally went away, but still stalling when up to temp, even with the fan not powering up. also put another new intake gasket on it (when i did the egr, i found a couple drops of water on the port, dont know if it was steam or just condensation), no joy. i let it cool down for five minutes, bumped the idle speed screw up a bit to 1k rpm (on a whim), and it seemed better for a while, but then it got back to temp again and stalled after i revved it up. got it to start with some throttle a few more times before it stalled out, then it started to want to crank/no start until the battery finally went to about 9v. chargers on it now.
vac still reads about the same btw (15-16" at idle, 17-18 at about 1200 iirc, checked it as soon as i got the timing set), im still not sure if thats where it should be or not with the aftermarket cam in it. it does it whether the iac is connected or not. its not throwing any codes except the 44/94 on the koer (again, expected). it only seems to do it once the temp gauge hits 180. idle doesn't "surge" more than 50 rpm when its running, though once its warmed up a bit if you rev it real quick it will sometimes dip below idle before it "catches" itself and gets back to idle.
im just totally confused now, i've been through the entire surging checklist now, and everything seems to check out. something does whistle a bit at idle (goes away with rpms), but i always attributed that to either the pos bbk throttle body or the mismatch between it and the egr spacer (65mm tb, 70mm spacer).
still having this hot stalling issue. i put another NEW egr valve on it, and the code 34 finally went away, but still stalling when up to temp, even with the fan not powering up. also put another new intake gasket on it (when i did the egr, i found a couple drops of water on the port, dont know if it was steam or just condensation), no joy. i let it cool down for five minutes, bumped the idle speed screw up a bit to 1k rpm (on a whim), and it seemed better for a while, but then it got back to temp again and stalled after i revved it up. got it to start with some throttle a few more times before it stalled out, then it started to want to crank/no start until the battery finally went to about 9v. chargers on it now.
vac still reads about the same btw (15-16" at idle, 17-18 at about 1200 iirc, checked it as soon as i got the timing set), im still not sure if thats where it should be or not with the aftermarket cam in it. it does it whether the iac is connected or not. its not throwing any codes except the 44/94 on the koer (again, expected). it only seems to do it once the temp gauge hits 180. idle doesn't "surge" more than 50 rpm when its running, though once its warmed up a bit if you rev it real quick it will sometimes dip below idle before it "catches" itself and gets back to idle.
im just totally confused now, i've been through the entire surging checklist now, and everything seems to check out. something does whistle a bit at idle (goes away with rpms), but i always attributed that to either the pos bbk throttle body or the mismatch between it and the egr spacer (65mm tb, 70mm spacer).
your new TFI wouldn't happen to be Accel, would it? I had the exact symptoms and new parts you're describing, including a new Accel TFI. After reading a couple of threads about other's Accel modules crapping out after just a couple of days I decided to change mine. Car runs like a champ now. Don't discount a part just because it's new. jrichter checklist kept leading me back to the TFI, I just didn't want to accept that I got took.
not an accel, just the typical in-stock one at oreillys (bwd i think?). i dont know if this matters or not, but the new distributor i put the in the pad for the module was as cast, on the stocker this area is machined, dont know what affect this would have on the heat transfer if any. the magnet for the pip still had the ford part number too, so it may just be a re-used one.
I've been told that buying a reman dist won't necessarily mean you get a new pip. Hell, the brand new billet dist I bought from summit had a bad pip. The test from the checklist should help you determine if that's the problem. Not sure about the heat issue, but I do know the TFI needs dielectric grease on the mating surface to the distributor to keep it from failing when it gets hot. A noid light is what I used to check the pip signal at the fuel injector. It also pulses at the neg coil wire.
alright, so i looked up the crank/no-start list, and just reading through it this morning found:
sounded about what i was having to do (not flooring it, but did have to throttle it). checked voltage with the key on and got NOTHING!!!! engine running (not up to temp) still 0. ohms across sensor looked in the right range (23k on a low-mid 90's day), and the ground checked out to an intake bolt just fine, the other leg to the other end of the 10pin also checked in at an ohm or so. changed sensor, now theres no more idle drifting at all, and wont stall out when hot or after revving. had it at temp for a good 15-20 minutes too with some revving and rpm holds, all looks good there. voltage reads right at .8v with my autometer gauge reading 180 (didnt check cold, slipped my mind).
my only problem now is that if i turn the key off and try to restart, i do have to rev it a bit and hold it a second or two at about 1500 until i can let off and it finds idle again, and then its fine and wont die.
when i did this last intake gasket, i swapped out my kirban adjustable regulator for the stock-replacement one i had sitting around (more for clearance issues with the egr valve than anything, making sure the upper was mounting right). it looks like that may have been a bad move, now my gauge reads ~40-42psi with the vac hooked up, and ~48 (!) with the hose off, so ill probably be putting the adjustable back on before too long. could this be part of the hot starting problem, or am i still screwed?
sounded about what i was having to do (not flooring it, but did have to throttle it). checked voltage with the key on and got NOTHING!!!! engine running (not up to temp) still 0. ohms across sensor looked in the right range (23k on a low-mid 90's day), and the ground checked out to an intake bolt just fine, the other leg to the other end of the 10pin also checked in at an ohm or so. changed sensor, now theres no more idle drifting at all, and wont stall out when hot or after revving. had it at temp for a good 15-20 minutes too with some revving and rpm holds, all looks good there. voltage reads right at .8v with my autometer gauge reading 180 (didnt check cold, slipped my mind).
my only problem now is that if i turn the key off and try to restart, i do have to rev it a bit and hold it a second or two at about 1500 until i can let off and it finds idle again, and then its fine and wont die.
when i did this last intake gasket, i swapped out my kirban adjustable regulator for the stock-replacement one i had sitting around (more for clearance issues with the egr valve than anything, making sure the upper was mounting right). it looks like that may have been a bad move, now my gauge reads ~40-42psi with the vac hooked up, and ~48 (!) with the hose off, so ill probably be putting the adjustable back on before too long. could this be part of the hot starting problem, or am i still screwed?
If the the injectors have a lot of miles on them, they may tend to drip with added fuel pressure when the engine isn't running. That could cause a hard starting condition that would be remedied by a full throttle start.
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