How can I bypass/disable/remove the steering wheel lock?

mhespenh · Oct 13, 2008

Hey folks,

I've assembled all the pieces for my push-button start system, but just realized the one major flaw in my plan:

I want it to be completely key-less, but if the key isn't in the cylinder the steering wheel lock won't come off. Is there something I can do to disable it permanently (aside from just breaking a key off in the cylinder and leaving it on run).

I don't have any need for the cylinder at all, there will be an on/off push button to replace the functionality of turning the key to run, and a momentary push button to replace start. I plan on disconnecting the relevant wires from below the steering column and re-routing them to the buttons. For security, I have an RFID sensor linked to the ignition circuit, such that the circuit is only active for five seconds after swiping an authorized RFID card past the sensor (IE the push button to start won't work unless the RFID thing has authorized it).

So yea, any ideas how to disable the wheel lock? TIA

revhead347 · Oct 13, 2008

Maybe you should just buy some go fast parts instead.

Kurt

mhespenh · Oct 13, 2008

revhead347 said:
Maybe you should just buy some go fast parts instead.

Kurt

:Zip2:

I just started modding my 'stang, but I'm a poor computer/electrical engineering student, so one thing at a time- I just put the Magnaflow cat-back on it this past weekend, so its gonna be a little bit while I save up for 373's.

In the mean-time I'm doing this cause I have all the parts laying around (yea, I'm kind of a nerd, I'm okay with it ), it doesn't cost me anything, it's unique, and it gives me something to do.

It's not all about the power adds, at least for me.

revhead347 · Oct 13, 2008

Cool. Well I think if you pull the steering shaft off the back of the steering wheel, there is a little disk on the steering wheel side of the shaft. It has a bunch of holes that the lock pops into. I'm sure if you just knock that little disk off, it will be disabled.

Kurt

neoxaero · Oct 13, 2008

Like the post above said.. On some cars you can just remove the little disk the.. not sure if you need it on a mustang for a spacer or what not though...

Theres a little metal rod that extends when the key is turned off... you may be able to just dremel that off as well... Just pull the wheel apart and check it out

mhespenh · Oct 13, 2008

Reckon I'll go tear my column apart :-D

neoxaero said:
Like the post above said.. On some cars you can just remove the little disk the.. not sure if you need it on a mustang for a spacer or what not though...

Theres a little metal rod that extends when the key is turned off... you may be able to just dremel that off as well... Just pull the wheel apart and check it out

revhead347 said:
Cool. Well I think if you pull the steering shaft off the back of the steering wheel, there is a little disk on the steering wheel side of the shaft. It has a bunch of holes that the lock pops into. I'm sure if you just knock that little disk off, it will be disabled.

Kurt

Awesome guys, thanks.

94-302-vert · Oct 14, 2008

and/or Diagrams...

I like this approach.. so for the rest of us what would the RFID part of this cost? I would love to get keyless entry in my car then not need the key to run the car...

mhespenh · Oct 14, 2008

94-302-vert said:
and/or Diagrams...

I like this approach.. so for the rest of us what would the RFID part of this cost? I would love to get keyless entry in my car then not need the key to run the car...

I'm planning on finishing it this weekend and putting up a how-to, since I also made a home-made ashtray delete that some people might be interested in.

Here's the rough mock up:

This is the kit I have for the RFID- at $30 its very reasonable, but the range it will read the cards from is very limited, about 4 inches (which is just fine for this application). I got mine a few months ago from the same person (Kawalock on eBay).

neoxaero · Oct 19, 2008

would you mind posting up some pictures of how you set everything up?

mhespenh · Oct 22, 2008

neoxaero said:
would you mind posting up some pictures of how you set everything up?

Absolutely. I'll probably start a new thread for those who may search for this in the future.

For now, I took the weekend and installed everything- but I forgot to disconnect a few wires, so my battery dies (due to being in "ACC" mode when off). I'm gonna tear into it tomorrow and fix it. I'll post some pics and a write up after I get it 100%.

For those wondering, I bypassed the steering column lock by simply removing the key cylinder, and disconnecting the ignition harness under the dash and re-connecting all the wires from there to their new buttons and whatnot. Thus the key position stays in "RUN," disabling the lock, but the ignition system's power status isn't related to the key position anymore (since the harness is disconnected). I'll try to explain it better when I finish everything up.

I got a bit distracted this weekend and took a trip down to Roanoke to pick up a used TFS Street Burner intake

toutanje · Nov 30, 2008

any updates to this?

mhespenh · Nov 30, 2008

toutanje said:
any updates to this?

Sure 'nuff.

I ended up removing every wire from the ignition harness under the dash and connecting each pair to a 12V relay. So the wire that controls the power to the lights/HVAC is connected to a relay, so is it's corresponding power wire. You'll have to bust out a voltmeter and do some testing to see which wires connect to which wires at the ignition switch. Next I have one push button switch which controls all the relays- push the switch to give power to everything. Finally there is an RFID card reader that controls ANOTHER relay which gives power to a switch to engage the starter. You have to swipe an authorized RFID card past the (hidden) reader to activate the switch.

Since all the wires to the ignition switch were removed, I removed the ignition cylinder, set the ign. switch to "run" (slid the sliding bar all the way forward -towards the engine bay-) and reinstalled it.

Here are a few schematics

Starter circuit:

And one at the ignition switch:

(this is where you need to do the testing @ the ignition switch, to find each pair of wires)

-Michael

HISSIN50 · Dec 1, 2008

Michael, I've enjoyed every one of your posts that I can remember. It's creative stuff like this that I really dig. Keep up the good work and please keep posting about the projects you're working on.

mhespenh · Dec 1, 2008

HISSIN50 said:
Michael, I've enjoyed every one of your posts that I can remember. It's creative stuff like this that I really dig. Keep up the good work and please keep posting about the projects you're working on.

Thanks man! Thats good to hear from a stang net old timer such as yourself

I'll be putting in a new push button for the starter soon and plan on doing a totally custom dash panel (to mount my 7" touchscreen, iPod controller's screen, and new starter button). I'll be reworking the HVAC controls at the same time- I hope to get a thread about it started this week.

I'll be the resident stang net technology mod nerd- I may not be the fastest, but I'll make a CS/CPE student smile :SNSign:

95BlueStallion · Dec 1, 2008

Thats pretty cool man. I did the technology retarded way and just wired in a push button that starts the car once the key is in the run position. Way to go on the intake purchase also, you should notice a slight gain in the high rpms.

nmcgrawj · May 5, 2010

How did you wire/program the RFID to only activate for 15 seconds?

How can I bypass/disable/remove the steering wheel lock?

mhespenh

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