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how can I put posi in a 7.5 rear end?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Isaacsdad
  • Start date Start date Aug 4, 2020
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Isaacsdad

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#1
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  • #1
Hi All,
I looked on the sticky threads and can't find this info. I have a 91 four cylinder lx with a 7.5. I was told I would have to put a new rear end with an 8.8 in order to get posi. This past weekend I spoke with someone who said the rear end from a ranger would "bolt in" and have posi.
Anyone have any info on this?
Thanks!
 

91TwighlightGT

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#2
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The reality is that they do make limited slip differentials for 7.5 inch rear ends. However, it isn’t worth doing based on the cost when the 8.8 inch is stronger, practically a direct bolt in, and far more common.
 
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Isaacsdad

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#3
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Ok, thanks
I have an 8.8 tear end, I just thought this would easier.
Thanks for the reassurance to rebuild it
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#4
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Ranger rear ends have an off set, one axle is shorter than the other and leaf springs.
 
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Isaacsdad

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I always wonder when someone tells me I can just swap something. This guy was a ford mechanic that told me he remembered do it at the dealership. He said it was a long time ago. I guess he just didn't remember all the details.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#6
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The 7.5” is a similar design to the 8.8”. You can put a LSD in it that will stand up to enthusiastic use on street tires without a problem.
Your 4 cylinder will not likely ever need the extra strength and weight of the bigger axle. The SROD in my 79 302 was the weak link, not the 7.5” with an added Ford limited slip. The 7.5” in an ‘87 Cougar was stronger than the 3.8 V-6 and AOD.
Now if you are headed to the track with slicks and a 351 based engine, go with the 8.8”.
 
Last edited: Aug 5, 2020

91TwighlightGT

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The thing is, it CAN be done, but there is no good reason to do it. You have to pull the ring gear and install the new differential, and anyone who has been around for a while knows that setting up a rear end gear so that it doesn't whine and doesn't destroy itself isn't the easiest thing in the world, and trying to do it without the proper tools is even worse. It definitely isn't just an unbolt and swap situation, it's more involved than that.

Still, even if you are able and willing to overcome that hurdle, you are putting money into a part that most would consider worthless. People don't build 7.5 rear ends, and the cost of buying an LSD for a 7.5 is about the same as an 8.8. The 7.5 axle is "fine" for non performance use in a daily driver, and I don't recommend that people swap them without reason, but I would also never recommend putting money into one.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#8
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When I had the posi installed in a 7.5”, a new posi carrier was a lot cheaper than a new, complete 8.8” from the Ford catalog, and a take out/salvage one was about the same price as the new one!
Now, unless you have a willing mechanic friend to give you a deal, the 8.8” is likely a better financial decision.
But the 7.5”’ can be done and has a undeserved bad rep.
 
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Isaacsdad

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#9
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I already have an 8,8 rear end that has posi. It just needs a total rebuild and has disc brakes. I am hoping to rally cross this car. I would love to have posi in it as well. I have been surprised at how pleasant this car is to drive, even with the four cylinder. I have an 06 mustang gt as well, so I am not in a hurry to do the v8 swap on this car. I always get looked down upon with the 2.3 engines, except by old mechanics that loved this engine.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#10
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I know your question was “How”, but your last post makes”Should I” really clear.
The disc brakes, already posi, and auto crossing make it an easy decision. Save the 7.5” as a back up. Even if the 8.8” needs new clutches, that’s cheaper than a new posi unit. And as far as bearings and seals, you would want to refresh them if tearing into the 7.5”.

So is the 2.3 mostly stock, hopped up or turbo?
 
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Isaacsdad

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the 2.3 is completely stock. Until last week, the ac blew cold! The poor car lived in Vermont on a dirt road, I think it's whole life. I want to rally cross it, which is auto cross on dirt. That's why posi is so important. I drove it last winter (I'm in Maine) with studded snows and she never missed a beat. Oh, the 8.8 rear end has drum brakes as well!
I should ask you guys a question while I have your attention: I put new rotors on the front and now I have tire rub on the inside. Any idea why?
 

91TwighlightGT

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#12
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Yep, definitely go 8.8 for a rallycross car.

As far as your brake rotors causing a rub, I cannot see a situation where changing them would cause that unless perhaps your new rotors are different in some way. Is the front suspension stock? Are the wheels stock?
 
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Isaacsdad

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#13
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Thanks for your reply. The front suspension is stock for the moment. I am planning on putting coil overs on the car, just because I cannot deal with those springs again. I bought the rotors from rock auto. I am probably going to bring it in to a mechanic and check. I cannot figure out why it's doing this.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Where is it rubbing?
 
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Isaacsdad

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they rub on the inside while taking a sharp turn. not the outside.
 

91TwighlightGT

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#16
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Isaacsdad said:
they rub on the inside while taking a sharp turn. not the outside.
Click to expand...


Right, is it the wheel on the control arm or the tire on the inner fender liner, or somewhere else?
 
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Isaacsdad

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#17
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Tire on inner fender liner/rail of the car. It's not rubbing bad, but you def here it when taking a sharp turn.
 

91TwighlightGT

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I would just start with some basics. If your control arm bushings are really worn then you could get some shifting of the wheel and tire which can then rub. I am assuming they are stock wheels and tires. If the rack has ever been replaced it is possible that the steering rack limiters were not in place and that could also cause the tire to rub - although you would likely have noticed that prior to changing your brake rotors. The only thing I can think of with the rotors is if the rotor hat size was different which would space the wheel out less or more depending on the rotor. I think you would rub the strut if the hat were shorter, though.
 
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Isaacsdad

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The only thing that was changed was the rotors. I have the originals still. I'm going to have a mechanic look at it and let him look at the old rotors. I reused the original bearings as well.
 
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junkyardwarrior

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You can absolutely do a 7.5 LSD and it is not that bad. The rear end is stronger than you think it is, however, it will break behind a 5.0 if you abuse it hard enough and with enough power and traction. Remember: 79-86 5.0's came stock with 7.5 rear ends.

Here is the deal though. The early (up to about late 1984 including SVO) 7.5's had a cone-style posi unit. Basically, the two side gears are thick heavy cone-shaped gears. The cone of the gear is forced into a mating inverse cone that is built into the carrier and the friction causes them to "bind" enough to "lock". They will slip in a turn. A set of 4 springs put pressure on each cone forcing them into the carrier. The downside to this design is that the cones wear, the carrier wears, then the side gear/cone is allowed to ride further into the carrier because of wear, which makes the spider gears VERY loose. A small shock load, and they break, and there is no new replacements, you have to swap the entire carrier or do an 8.8. I broke several cone style 7.5's, and trust me, there is no affordable repair for them. When they're broken, junk it. If you find one that ain't broke, you can sell the parts for a little bit of money. They are hard to find.

The later style LSD (aka posi) is a "normal" style clutch type. Single "S" shaped spring (s-spring) in the middle that forces the two side gears into the clutches, which causes friction and there is your posi. Exactly like an 8.8, just smaller. These are MUCH stronger than the cone-style and much less likely to break the spiders and side gears. They are also much more common and parts are still available to fix them when they wear out. Now, with that said, the clutch kit for this style is not all that inexpensive. I bought one for mine and it was like $120 but it came with everything I needed including shims, so that I could adjust it tight. I have it as tight as I can get it and still be able to get the circlips and pin back in. I left the S-spring out, it is not needed if you have it shimmed tight enough. Plus is reduced binding in slow speed turns which is fine with me for a street car. When power is applied, the spider gears force the side gears outward, which loads the clutch pack. This works great.

It is not hard to swap in a 7.5 LSD, although they are getting harder to find. If you can find a bronco II or ranger 4x4, a lot of them had 7.5's and most 4x4 stuff is LSD. Be careful though because some Rangers could've had 8.8's. They look similar to the untrained eye so don't go pull a LSD carrier assembly from a junkyard not knowing the difference because an 8.8 carrier won't fit in a 7.5 housing, plus the ring gear won't fit. If you do decide to go ahead with it, grab a LSD carrier assembly from a 7.5, rebuild it, and stuff it in. You can usually use your gears with the original carrier bearing shims and be fine, but you always want to check it out real good. If you get everything set up right, it'll be plenty strong for a mild V8. Years back a lot of the stock or near stock Mustang heads up drag racers ran 7.5's because they're lighter among other things, but they had PLENTY of spare parts. Even the 300hp V6's were still running 7.5's in the 05-10 Mustangs. They get a bad reputation because people were trying to put 500+ hp through them on slicks and worse yet drag radials, side stepping the clutch from 7500 RPM. They don't live long in applications like that.
 
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