thanks, btw im handycap and cant turn the key without some one with me , so if i go out for a spin i need a button to start it, i was thinking of deleting the key an just add a togga switch to turn on the power/btw i have a automatic but i did use to be a clutch car/ if i were to make it key delet how do bypass the key? my car is gradge keep, an i need no worrie about it getting stolen< can some on draw a quick pick of a key delet/tagga switch starter button, once my cars hooked up , ill add my joystick drive system to drive my stang..
if you remove the key system, you will need to remove the steering wheel lock mechanism, which will be a decent amount of work on most cars. after that point, you should be able to bypass the key cylinder and tie in a switch instead.
So far, all the ghetto wiring I have seen posted bypasses the safety interlocks. It also bypasses the red/blue wire that goes to the TFI to give the ignition some extra dwell time to the coil for starting.
I suggest that you visit the AutoZone wiring site and look closely at the diagrams. Then draw out your wiring diagram and do it right.
HEY MAN! I thought that was you! I talked to you way back about your car setup...haven't seen you post in a long time though. How've you been? Did you ever get your 'stang going?
So far, all the ghetto wiring I have seen posted bypasses the safety interlocks. It also bypasses the red/blue wire that goes to the TFI to give the ignition some extra dwell time to the coil for starting.
I suggest that you visit the AutoZone wiring site and look closely at the diagrams. Then draw out your wiring diagram and do it right.
Tools needed:
#3 Phillips screwdriver
Small jeweler’s screwdriver
Heat source to shrink the heat shrink tubing.
Soldering gun
Rosin core electrical solder.
Parts needed:
AutoZone Ford electrical connector pin kit
Push button starter switch
18 gauge stranded automotive wire
3/16” heat shrink tubing 6” or longer
1/4 “ heat shrink tubing 6” or longer
3/8” heat shrink tubing 6” or longer
2 each 18 gauge ring terminals
12 each small tie wraps
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
make sure the ignition switch is off when you do this. I recommend that you disconnect the ground cable from the battery if you don’t mind losing your radio and computer settings. The computer will relearn the settings after about 15-20 minutes of highway driving.
Remove the plastic cover from around the steering wheel: it is secured in place with 3 Philips head screws. Remove the ignition connector from the ignition switch. From the front side, use a jeweler’s screwdriver to lift up the plastic finger that holds the white/pink wire in place. Pull the wire out from the rear. Crimp the mating pin from the AutoZone Ford electrical connector pin kit
onto the 18 gauge pigtail. Doing it this way will allow a neat and easy way to return to the stock configuration. Put a 1 1/2” long section of heat shrink tubing on the pigtail and then join the connectors. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the exposed contacts and heat until the tubing is uniformly shrunk all around. This will insulate the contact pins and keep the pins from pulling apart.
From the front side, use a jeweler’s screwdriver to lift up the plastic finger that holds the red/ lt green wire in place. Pull the wire out from the rear. Scrape a 1” section of the insulation off the wire. Strip 1” off the 18 gauge wire you are using to connect to the push button switch. Wrap in around the bare place on the red/lt green wire and solder it. Cut another 1 1/2” piece of heat shrink and slide it over the bare solder joint. Apply heat until the tubing is uniformly shrunk all around. Slide the red/lt green wire back into the plastic connector shell and make sure it locks in place. This wire provides power to the computer, fuel pump and ignition, so you don’t want it to come loose from the connector shell. Route the two wires down the steering column so that they do not snag anything and tie wrap them in place. Replace the plastic ignition switch cover
Find a suitable place for your push button switch and drill the mounting hole. Crimp a ring terminal on the end of each one of the pigtail wires you ran from the ignition switch. Cut a 1” piece of the 3/”8 heat shrink tubing and slide it on each of the pigtails. Connect the pigtails to the screw terminals on the push button switch, then slide the heat shrink tubing over the exposed screws. Apply heat until the tubing is uniformly shrunk all around. This will protect the wiring from short circuits since the power side of the push button is hot anytime the ignition switch is in the Run position.
i havent had the internet in along time, ive been haven heath problem for over a year, but im almost 100% ,my car got put on hold since i spent a total of 3-4 months in the hospital over a years period.... Now im back and getting back to doing up one of my stangs, rite now i have my 90 gt vert, a 2003 vert, and a 92 gt hatch that my dads painting and were going to split the money, with my half im going to buy some parts to finish my 418w stroker, and im getting 3 grand at the end of april, after that i have to pick with car too keep, or sell both an buy something diffrent(probley keep one that i have though).......