Yep pedistal. Rocker arm backed off. Adding a shim. Hopefully nothing else wrong
I thnk you will be fine.
I did the same thing after i built my engine. It had maybe 300 miles on it and the motor started rattling horribly. Pulled the valve cover and one of my 1.7 Er had backed off. Retorqued all of them, then came back about 50 miles later and did it again. No more problems. Not sure if shimming is the culprit for them backing off. Why do you think they need shimming?
Joe
I broke a rocker stud on my 306 and my 347.
LOL thats not how you do it
What did it run?...good at least?
Michael Yount’s valve adjustment procedure
Here's an easy way to determine this. Start with the #1 cylinder. Rotate the engine with a ratchet on the crank bolt clockwise. Watch the #1 pushrods. First the exhaust pushrod will rise and fall signaling what would be the exhaust valve opening and closing if the rocker were on. As it closes the intake pushrod will rise -- keep rotating clockwise until the intake pushrod falls and is level with the exhaust pushrod - both at the same height. Both lifters are now on the base circle of the cam - both valves would be closed if the rockers were on.
Now, install both rockers. Tighten the bolts with one hand while rocking the rocker with the other hand - continue until you reach the point where you can't 'rock' the rocker any more because there's no gap on the valve stem end or the pushrod end. You are at zero lash - i.e. - no gaps. Stop tightening just as you reach this point.
Now, put your torque wrench on the bolt and tighten it to 18-20 ft-lbs while counting the number of turns it takes to reach the torque. You should hit the torque within 1/4 to 1 turn of the bolt. If it takes more than 1 turn, use a shim to raise the rocker -- each .030" shim will reduce the number of turns to torque by about 1/4 turn. If you reach the torque in less than a 1/4 turn, or you have trouble reaching zero lash even at full torque, then you'll either need longer pushrods, or to CAREFULLY remove some material from the bottom of the rocker fulcrum. Using the procedure described above, you will work through the remaining 7 pairs of rockers. If you follow the firing order, it will minimize the manual cranking you have to do to get the lifters on the base circle of the cam prior to installation of the next pair.
When I first went through mine, 13 of them took no shims; 3 of them took 1 .030" shim. Upon cranking it up, one or two of them sounded a bit noisier than I thought was right, so with the engine hot, I pulled the upper off, and the valve covers, and went through the installation procedure again. That time, 11 of them took no shims; 4 of them took one .030", and one of them took one .060" shim. And they were very quiet running.
Good luck with it.
__________________
Michael Yount - K'ville,TN 82 Volvo 242w/5.0L; 2000 Suzuki Bandit 1200
$65 tow truck bill for 2 bloody miles.
Bring on the jokes!!!
Yes. Just be careful not to use the "I can't ever get this loose variety"Fixored. Runs fine now!
It ran like crap until we did. There is play in between the rocker arm and push rod.
Yea Fun I know
DON'T BUY YOUR KETCHUP INDUCTION FROM THIS MAN.
First run was a 9.45...
Second was a 9.08 in the 1/8
Had I gone for a 3rd I'd have been SOL so even if I picked up another half second it wouldn't have been worth it.
Hot, muggy, stock 3.08s so it nose dived out of the hole. The 60 foot says it all (2.15 or 2.20 I think?). There was a stock LS1 Trans Am running 9.4s consistently, all of the vettes were running high 8s. I think the weather was most of it. NEED MY GEARS PUT IN! I'm gonna run later this year when it cools down and I get those 3.73s in. I should be at the low 8's minimum.
I was shifting at 6k the last run and I think I over did it. Seemed to drop off about 5500 so I'll set the shift light for that next time.
We just torqued the ever loving ____ out of them. They kept backing out. Can I use locktite or something?
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