I have $15,000 to spend on my 68 fastback...what would you do?

DarkoStoj · Jul 20, 2006

starting with a solid rust free original 68 J code fastback.

I'm in the middle of finishing up the interior, mostly stock right now. Not sure on the seats (thinking Corbau CR-1's), but I plan on having all autometer guages, aluminum dash inserts, and thinking of a shelby wood steering wheel.

Right now it has a brand new 306 with factory A/C and Power Steering, manual drum brakes, Lakewood Bellhousing, Billet aluminum flywheel, Centerforce D/F clutch, Tremec 3550 Transmission with B&M shifter.

I will be painting the car a very dark black cherry with black shelby stripes.

I have a 1969 cougar 9" axle lined up that will be gone through.

Going to be ordering the 13" front and rear BAER track disk brakes. Anyone know if going with the two piece rotor for the extra $500 is worth it?

Ordering a lot from TCP

- Coilover kit
- Export/monte carlo setup
- Weld in subframe connectors with the mini cage and driveshaft loop
- aluminum pedal covers
- Maybe the Power rack and pinion (is it really worth it over the factory power steering)?

Not sure what to do on the rear suspension. I was either thinking of the AIR bar 4-link because I wanted something that would handle very well, or the cal-trac setup....any opinions?

Short nose 67 style shelby fiberglass hood with pins, 68 shelby mesh grill & eleanor mold on lower scoops and shelby upper scoops.

Wrapped up with Boyd Coddington 17" Junk Yard Dog wheels with 285 rear Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 Tire

66Runt · Jul 20, 2006

Is there a specific reason to chose the Bear track kit over the 13" Cobra brakes

Reason I ask, is that it would look pretty sweet to have the charcoal grey Cobra calipers sitting behind those Boyd's. It fits with the subtle Shelby-ized theme you have planned as well.
The other perk is that it is less expensive.

With the ability to run big tires in the rear, I'd look into a coil over setup with a 3 link. Doesn't sound like your building a dragster, and the 3 link with coil overs would handle really nice.

Overall your plan sounds awesome. I really like your color choices.

Scott

tylerrocks · Jul 20, 2006

must be nice.

DarkoStoj · Jul 20, 2006

66Runt said:
Reason I ask, is that it would look pretty sweet to have the charcoal grey Cobra calipers sitting behind those Boyd's. It fits with the subtle Shelby-ized theme you have planned as well.
The other perk is that it is less expensive.

With the ability to run big tires in the rear, I'd look into a coil over setup with a 3 link. Doesn't sound like your building a dragster, and the 3 link with coil overs would handle really nice.

Overall your plan sounds awesome. I really like your color choices.

Scott

I have always heard Great things about Baer. How do the Cobra brakes compare? They are a lot cheaper so that is always good. Do they have the parking brake built into the rear discs like the Baer's do?

Everyone should have the ability to run that tire size in the rear. You got people like 12sec67 running 315's on their stock wheel wells.

Also why would you reccomend a coilover setup with a 3 link? Do you know of any places that have kits that bolt in? I want to cut as little as possible of the original steel since the car is in such amazing condition.

tamadrummer88 · Jul 21, 2006

Check out Reenmachine and DVS restorations for suspension. DVS puts late model mustang cobra IRS suspensions into mustangs like yours. It looks real good from the rear, and handles real good from what I heard. Or you can look into RRS for a front strut-type suspension setup.

John

jerry S · Jul 21, 2006

I would go with the manual R&P. The price for the power R&P approaches close to $3k when you factor in the PS pump. I have the TCP man. R&P and it is just great.

boatillo · Jul 21, 2006

Wow, wish I could have done all that for $15 grand! Mines sticking with the manual drums, manual steering, no a/c, small rearend with no limited slip, original radio (works!) for now

In fact, I'm ok with all of that but the rearend! Its a classic, not a daily driver.

DarkoStoj · Jul 21, 2006

boatillo said:
Wow, wish I could have done all that for $15 grand! Mines sticking with the manual drums, manual steering, no a/c, small rearend with no limited slip, original radio (works!) for now

In fact, I'm ok with all of that but the rearend! Its a classic, not a daily driver.

well I'm already starting off with a rust free original complete car, fresh 306, tremec trans, wheels, and lots of other goodies. I'll be doing all the work myself also.

now I gotta get back to work......those damn headliner wrinkles are driving me crazy!

66Runt · Jul 21, 2006

DarkoStoj said:
I have always heard Great things about Baer. How do the Cobra brakes compare? They are a lot cheaper so that is always good. Do they have the parking brake built into the rear discs like the Baer's do?

Everyone should have the ability to run that tire size in the rear. You got people like 12sec67 running 315's on their stock wheel wells.

Also why would you reccomend a coilover setup with a 3 link? Do you know of any places that have kits that bolt in? I want to cut as little as possible of the original steel since the car is in such amazing condition.

I think you will find the Cobra brake kit is not as complete as a Baer kit. That said, once installed you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference when it comes to performance especially if you use the Cobra powerbooster/MC and an adjustable proportioning valve. The parking brake is built into the rear caliper. If you go to the web page in my sig you can see an install of the rears on a '66. I haven't done a page for the front install yet. I think there is a picture of them installed on the first page though. BTW: the drilled and slotted rotors are pretty much just for looks. I've never felt any real difference (seat of the pants) either way, between bling and non-bling rotors.

As for a kit to do the 3 link, I have only built my own stuff, so I can't recommend a kit. Building a 3 link doesn't involve cutting on the car. It does involve a lot of welding though. It works smoother than a leaf spring setup. I am thinking hard about building a Satchell link for the '66. Right now I'm running a pan hard bar and Caltracs, and after changing out shocks, it's pretty decent, but I've never built a Satchell before, so it would be a lot of fun to do. It's pretty inexpensive if you build the stuff yourself.
None of this stuff is hard to do, just takes some good study, common sense and patience.

Good luck with your project!

boatillo · Jul 21, 2006

DarkoStoj said:
well I'm already starting off with a rust free original complete car, fresh 306, tremec trans, wheels, and lots of other goodies. I'll be doing all the work myself also.

now I gotta get back to work......those damn headliner wrinkles are driving me crazy!

Hehe, just attach a couple of the crossmembers and let it hang in the heat for a long time, they will come out!

Bullitt · Jul 22, 2006

Think about what you want to do with the car...

The stock power steering is terrible, when you drive a car with a rack, you'll be amazed. Street car I'd get manual steering, if you're going to autocross or open track is - definetally power.

I wouldn't go with any sort of "air ride" setup for suspension. 3-link is the way to go for any time you turn, if you don't want to do much cutting on the body, take a look at a torque arm setup.

Cannoball888 · Jul 22, 2006

Paxton Novi 1200 kit. With the passenger side model you can still keep your AC and PS.

DarkoStoj · Jul 22, 2006

Cannoball888 said:
Paxton Novi 1200 kit. With the passenger side model you can still keep your AC and PS.

I was going to save the motor until last. My original plans were fabbing up a turbo setup, but I've decided to button up the rest of the car first.

Also if I went with a blower or turbo I'd run EFI with it, and one bigger than the 1200

bad68coupe · Jul 23, 2006

66Runt said:
Reason I ask, is that it would look pretty sweet to have the charcoal grey Cobra calipers sitting behind those Boyd's. It fits with the subtle Shelby-ized theme you have planned as well.
The other perk is that it is less expensive.

With the ability to run big tires in the rear, I'd look into a coil over setup with a 3 link. Doesn't sound like your building a dragster, and the 3 link with coil overs would handle really nice.

Overall your plan sounds awesome. I really like your color choices.

Scott

I agree 100%. also Scott i like your color on your stang, what is it?

Robdogg67 · Jul 24, 2006

Sounds like your on the right track. If your set on the CR1 seats, make sure you sit in them first. I was all set on them to but then my gf got them for her car and they are too small for me and I'm only 5'10", 175lbs. The shoulder area sits too deep and wasn't comfortable at all. I ended up with some other brand of leather highbacks for less than half the price of CR1's.

doug68hoss · Jul 27, 2006

i would drive .drive..drive..

DarkoStoj · Jul 27, 2006

fired the new motor for the first time today!

I have $15,000 to spend on my 68 fastback...what would you do?

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