i hurt her bad, need some advice

00filly · Feb 12, 2006

well, took my 00 gt out to her first dyno day since i bought her 2 months ago..... on the second dyno pull, looks like i snapped a rod..... so she's sitting in san bernadino right now, and i have a decision to make. i've decided that i don't ever, EVER want to see this happen again and i'm going to be going kenne bell / nitrous within the next 2 years. i know that i'd be having to build up her internals at that time ANYWAY, but it still doesn't make it any easier to hear your BABY making that godawful noise and getting pushed off the dyno.

so, i'm asking you all for your help. i need advice on forged internals. which ones to buy and where to get them from. what problems have you had, what should i steer clear of. money IS an issue but i'm going to do whatever's neccessary to make sure that she gets put back together right and i don't ever have to do this again. i'm looking in the future to be pushing 12-15 psi, possibly with a real small nitrous shot, but that's not definite.

here's what i'm thinking of to start.

1. forged rods. is manley the way to go on these? when i search for forged rods, they're always the ones i see. but what about Eagle? Oliver? Lunati? what works for you guys?
2. pistons. flat? dished? HOW dished? advice?
3. stock crankshaft? or is it worth shelling out the extra $$$ for forged? i hear that the stock crank is relatively strong, and my block should be ok.
4. arp head studs, fel pro gaskets? that's the way i'm leaning unless i hear negative things from everyone.

well, i really appreciate any help you guys can give me. the shock hasn't quite worn off from this afternoon, and i still have that bad sick feeling in my stomach, but i'm looking forward to getting some advice.

thanks

jade

Venom_Nitrous · Feb 12, 2006

00filly said:
well, took my 00 gt out to her first dyno day since i bought her 2 months ago..... on the second dyno pull, looks like i snapped a rod..... so she's sitting in san bernadino right now, and i have a decision to make. i've decided that i don't ever, EVER want to see this happen again and i'm going to be going kenne bell / nitrous within the next 2 years. i know that i'd be having to build up her internals at that time ANYWAY, but it still doesn't make it any easier to hear your BABY making that godawful noise and getting pushed off the dyno.

so, i'm asking you all for your help. i need advice on forged internals. which ones to buy and where to get them from. what problems have you had, what should i steer clear of. money IS an issue but i'm going to do whatever's neccessary to make sure that she gets put back together right and i don't ever have to do this again. i'm looking in the future to be pushing 12-15 psi, possibly with a real small nitrous shot, but that's not definite.

here's what i'm thinking of to start.

1. forged rods. is manley the way to go on these? when i search for forged rods, they're always the ones i see. but what about Eagle? Oliver? Lunati? what works for you guys?
2. pistons. flat? dished? HOW dished? advice?
3. stock crankshaft? or is it worth shelling out the extra $$$ for forged? i hear that the stock crank is relatively strong, and my block should be ok.
4. arp head studs, fel pro gaskets? that's the way i'm leaning unless i hear negative things from everyone.

well, i really appreciate any help you guys can give me. the shock hasn't quite worn off from this afternoon, and i still have that bad sick feeling in my stomach, but i'm looking forward to getting some advice.

thanks

jade

If you snapped a rod, odds are your block is ****ed. Just call tim and get a street strip shortblock.

00filly · Feb 12, 2006

tim from where?

01' Bullitt · Feb 12, 2006

Well AFAIK the Manley rods are pretty good, oliver and eagle you can't go wrong with either. As for pistons I can't comment because I don't know how low of a compression number you are looking for. By your plans you seem to want to be pushing alot of hp with a stressful poweradder (Nitrous) so while you're taking her apart swap to the Cobra crank. Save for it and put it on hold if you have to because you don't want to go through this again.

Remember even forged parts can still break, it's all in the quality of the tune/grade of gas. Keeping an eye on the A/F and EGT's will save your motor from chewing out another rod.

00filly · Feb 12, 2006

will the cobra crank work on my flywheel? is it going to be my best bet on cranks.

Dragstr05 · Feb 12, 2006

As far as I know, the cobra crank is your only option.

As mentioned above, I personally would just get a built shortblock, bolt your heads on and drop it in. You probably do need a new block anyway.

hotmustang331 · Feb 12, 2006

Tim is the owner of www.modularpowerhouse.com . he tuned my car...awsome guy.

How many RPMs did you have the dyno guy pull the car to? Like 6800 lol..I been doing 6200-6400 for a while and so have many others. im surprised that happened.

sgarlic · Feb 12, 2006

What mods were currently done to your engine when you broke a rod? I'm curious, since you mentioned you plan on supercharging down the road, to me means you currently aren't.. which makes me very curious as to how you broke a rod.. dyno conditions, as the above poster said, what RPM did they friggen run it to?

ADRENLN · Feb 12, 2006

yea how the hell did that happen men? was the a/f way off and they take it all the way up anyway?

i also say just have the block built by tim at mph of vt. that is the way im gonna go. they are the best.

Mike97gt · Feb 12, 2006

if money is not a limiting factor you can get a 4.6 explorer aluminum block motor from a bone yard and have it sleeved and make a big bore 4.6 with some good heads and the right cams you will have a nice motor. one of the big problems i have with the modular motor is the lack of bore. this motor is heavy on stoke.

the98stang · Feb 13, 2006

Seriosuly, how the Fu$% did you snap a rod on the dyno? Makes me scaird to put my car on one lol. Maybe you had her tuned really lean or something?

Maybe you can sue the guy that dyno'ed your car. seriously...

csledd · Feb 13, 2006

wow that really sucks and is pretty strange. makes ya wonder what the previous owner did to it

00filly · Feb 13, 2006

here's her first pull on the dyno. as soon as the first pull was done he said "wow....SOMEBODY needs a TUNE!" the 2nd pull didn't go past 6000..... no mods on the motor, several people said that based on the amount of oil in the metal (yes, i meant to say "oil in the metal") that it could be a bearing...... i dunno....i guess we'll find out the extent of the damage once it's torn down.

AdRock · Feb 13, 2006

I have been contemplating building a new engine so that I have one when the one in the car is on it's way out. I had been looking at the DSS and MMR units.

MMR
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_shortblocks.htm

DSS
http://www.dssracing.com/46promod.html

SLY GT · Feb 13, 2006

00filly said:
here's her first pull on the dyno. as soon as the first pull was done he said "wow....SOMEBODY needs a TUNE!" the 2nd pull didn't go past 6000..... no mods on the motor, several people said that based on the amount of oil in the metal (yes, i meant to say "oil in the metal") that it could be a bearing...... i dunno....i guess we'll find out the extent of the damage once it's torn down.

There is nothing in those numbers to indicate you need a tune. They blew up your motor. See an attorney. If they felt so strongly thatyou need a tune why did they do a second run?

00filly · Feb 13, 2006

SLY GT said:
There is nothing in those numbers to indicate you need a tune. They blew up your motor. See an attorney. If they felt so strongly thatyou need a tune why did they do a second run?

well, he just made it sound like he could pull way more out of it with a tune. it wasn't running way lean or anything, and he didn't bring it past 6000 rpm....so i don't see how it could have been him that blew the motor up?

stng · Feb 13, 2006

I think the dyno guy is responsible... Unless you had 100k + miles on your car, and even then you shouldnt have blown a rod, maybe a bearing but not a rod. The guy overloaded your car and snapped your rod 99.9% sure. I would talk with him and see if he will own up to any of the replacement cost, if not put him in touch with your attorney and contact the better buisness beareu, and the beareu of automotive repair...

00filly · Feb 13, 2006

it's in my nature to want to blame something or someone when things like this happen. BUT i still don't think the dyno shop is at fault for this. did the problem occur as a result of the dyno? probably, but i think it would have happened regardless of who dynoed it. i think the strain of dynoing the car caused the failure but i don't think the way the dyno was done had anything to do with it. i mean, there's nothing in the chart from the first pull that gave any indication to the problem.....and the failure happened on the 2nd pull before he even hit the same rpm's as the first pull.

it sucks that it happened, but i'm not blaming the shop. who's to say that it wasn't going to happen the next time i got on it getting onto the freeway or raced someone at a stoplight?

00filly · Feb 13, 2006

and the car hasn't even been torn down yet...it very well could be a bearing, but from the sound it was making several people said it sounded like a thrown rod.

Kilgore Trout · Feb 13, 2006

What kind of engine oil were you using?

i hurt her bad, need some advice

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