I just joined

[gkomo]

If i'm going through the effort of removng the trans and all the stuff that has to come off to get that out, i'm going all in and replacing everything i can in there like others have mentioned. Unless removing the trans is no big deal and you've done it a bunch of times.

 

[JK.]

If i'm going through the effort of removng the trans and all the stuff that has to come off to get that out, i'm going all in and replacing everything i can in there like others have mentioned. Unless removing the trans is no big deal and you've done it a bunch of times.

I've done engine swaps and things like that but I haven't done anything of the sorts on my car like that

 

[nickyb]

What's that saying ?
Buy once , cry once.

 

[keel]

Unless removing the trans is no big deal and you've done it a bunch of times.

Done it a bunch of times? Yes. Still really sucks every time.

 

[JK.]

Done it a bunch of times? Yes. Still really sucks every time.

any tips?

 

[keel]

any tips?

I would invest in some impact rated wobble sockets or u-joint sockets for the trans to bellhousing bolts. And extensions. Those are probably the toughest fasteners to get to.

One good tech tip that I learned is that even if you drain the trans fluid its a good idea to plug or cover the area where the driveshaft yoke goes in or it will drip everywhere which is very annoying especially if you don't have a lift and you're under the car lying on the ground. I stick an old worn out driveshaft yoke in there and that works well but there are dedicated tools too or you can always just use a plastic bag.

Also if you have long tubes you can get the bellhousing off without taking off the headers by loosening the motor mount bolts and rocking the engine backwards. This can also help with clearance with the shifter if you don't want to remove that either but my car was manual swapped so I'm not sure if that applies to factory stick cars since they have a slightly different trans tunnel.

 

[JK.]

I would invest in some impact rated wobble sockets or u-joint sockets for the trans to bellhousing bolts. And extensions. Those are probably the toughest fasteners to get to.

One good tech tip that I learned is that even if you drain the trans fluid its a good idea to plug or cover the area where the driveshaft yoke goes in or it will drip everywhere which is very annoying especially if you don't have a lift and you're under the car lying on the ground. I stick an old worn out driveshaft yoke in there and that works well but there are dedicated tools too or you can always just use a plastic bag.

Also if you have long tubes you can get the bellhousing off without taking off the headers by loosening the motor mount bolts and rocking the engine backwards. This can also help with clearance with the shifter if you don't want to remove that either but my car was manual swapped so I'm not sure if that applies to factory stick cars since they have a slightly different trans tunnel.

that's a big help to me thank you.

 

[General karthief]

Wobble sockets and safety glasses

 

[JK.]

this weekend I'm gonna do the ball joints, Inner and Outer tie rods, the struts, and the bearings and seals on the axle cause the bearing and seal is going on the driver side.

 

[JK.]

I would invest in some impact rated wobble sockets or u-joint sockets for the trans to bellhousing bolts. And extensions. Those are probably the toughest fasteners to get to.

One good tech tip that I learned is that even if you drain the trans fluid its a good idea to plug or cover the area where the driveshaft yoke goes in or it will drip everywhere which is very annoying especially if you don't have a lift and you're under the car lying on the ground. I stick an old worn out driveshaft yoke in there and that works well but there are dedicated tools too or you can always just use a plastic bag.

Also if you have long tubes you can get the bellhousing off without taking off the headers by loosening the motor mount bolts and rocking the engine backwards. This can also help with clearance with the shifter if you don't want to remove that either but my car was manual swapped so I'm not sure if that applies to factory stick cars since they have a slightly different trans tunnel.

I was driving this morning and while I was driving I'm pretty sure the clutch went or is going out. Because it was a loud squeaking noise so idk it it was the throw out bearing going and not the clutch but I need a little bit of input so I don't go through the whole thing and end up replacing the wrong things.i was already planning on replacing these things this weekend but not in the middle of the week.

 

[keel]

Are you sure the squeaking is coming from your clutch assembly? If it is your throwout then the sound should change when you push the clutch pedal.

 

[JK.]

Are you sure the squeaking is coming from your clutch assembly? If it is your throwout then the sound should change when you push the clutch pedal.

yea i’m sadly positive it stopped making the noise when the clutch was pushed in and it was smoking so my clutch is now screwed

 

[keel]

Yeah ok it's time to service that stuff. Unless you have to I wouldn't drive the car. Take it apart when you can and replace all the typical wear items like the pilot bearing and throwout bearing, but take a close look at everything since these cars are old. The first time I pulled my trans I ended up replacing the clutch fork, pivot ball, and input shaft bearing retainer which are not typically wear items but all showed signs of needing replacement.

These parts are all readily available and relatively inexpensive, but I will say, these cars sure do love to nickel and dime you to death...

 

[JK.]

Yeah ok it's time to service that stuff. Unless you have to I wouldn't drive the car. Take it apart when you can and replace all the typical wear items like the pilot bearing and throwout bearing, but take a close look at everything since these cars are old. The first time I pulled my trans I ended up replacing the clutch fork, pivot ball, and input shaft bearing retainer which are not typically wear items but all showed signs of needing replacement.

These parts are all readily available and relatively inexpensive, but I will say, these cars sure do love to nickel and dime you to death...

unfortunately i was going to school when this happened but i live only 5 mins away from it so its not all bad im going to replace a good amount of things on it

 

[Potomus Pete]

Get a transmission jack. Harbor Freight, and its so much easier. Almost not fair if you've done them on your back.

 

[JK.]

Get a transmission jack. Harbor Freight, and its so much easier. Almost not fair if you've done them on your back.

Get a transmission jack. Harbor Freight, and its so much easier. Almost not fair if you've done them on your back.

way ahead of you