I need some info (intake swap )

[Darek78]

Hey guys i just need some info on the intake swap ..... im going to replace my cobra with a ported Tmoss edl preformer intake to fit my afr's 165 heads ...
my first question is how much torque to apply to the bolts on the lower intake ??
second question is what gaskets to use ???? i know that i need to apply some RTV on the front and the back of the intake
and one more thing i have some ford motorsport tall valve covers do you think that my edl profermer would clear them on the cobra intake i had to ise a half inch spacer to clear them
i have no idea if i need one foe the edl intake ??????

thanks

Derek.N

 

[5spd GT]

Torque in stages using the proper torque sequence, up to 25 ft. lbs.

Use the FPP-1250 gasket. The FPP-1250S will last even longer because it has a 'metal plate' in the gasket to keep it from breaking down over time. It cost about $40 though. I think it is worth it

You will probably still need the spacer to clear the tall valve covers...

Here is the torque sequence...

Firewall side

7 8
3 2
11 10
9 12
1 4
5 6

Front of engine

You may need to go over this torque sequence several times as the gasket and RTV squishes...

And go over it once again after the car has ran for a couple hundred miles....

 

[Darek78]

Ok thank you ....... thats all i need ...

Derek.N

 

[Killercanary]

Can the FP1250S be trimmed? If not, I wouldn't use it as I know that with a 1250 on an AFR 165 the gasket needed a little trimming around the intake ports. I also never torque my lower intake anymore than 20ftlbs, I believe 18-20ftlbs is what most manufactures suggest. You will need the spacer. There is a 90* bung that goes under the intake on top of the driver side VC, its an extremely close fit even with the stock VC's. I had to actually grind a little of the bung for it to fit on my car. I did buy the intake used so there is a chance that this fitting is not one that comes with the edelbrock. You will also have a clearance issue on the inlet elbow adapter where the EGR bolts to it. There is an "ear" that hangs down from the elbow and it too barely clears the VC.

I do agree that you should go back over the torque sequence multiple times and after the car has had a chance to go through a few heat cycles as the lower to head bolts will need it. For the upper to lower intake bolts, just snug them up by hand.

 

[Killercanary]

One more thing, when applying the RTV to the deck surface between the heads, make sure to put it on THICK. I like to have a 1/8"-1/4" thick bead running across there. If you don't put enough you will have an oil leak like no other and you'll have to pull the lower back off to fix it. Just be careful around the distributor hole with the rtv so that it doesn't get down in there.

 

[5spd GT]

The 1250S should be able to be trimmed of that old 351 coolant port design. A small cutter should do the trick.

I read the 25 ft. lbs off of an intake swap write-up. A good even torque is the key!

 

[final5-0]

I would point out the lower intake bolts on an OEM application
are held in place by iron heads

If you use Aluminum heads .........
there is a very valid reason to have concern
for softer material (Aluminum)

This means more susceptible issues with bolt threads

I backed off the torque rating to around 20 lbs

I've had no leaks with the lower value

Just something to consider ... Or Not

Grady

 

[Darek78]

ok thank's for the replys
on my car my EGR is disconnected i have no emission stuff on my car ..... the EGR is just bolted to intake and thats it if it's going to be in the way i will make some kind of a plate to cover the hole after the egr ... if that helps
so i should use fpp-1250 gasket???
the intake is new pice from summitracing and was worked by Tmoss i did not see any 90* bung with it so i may be ok

Thanks
Derek.N

 

[Darek78]

 

[5spd GT]

I would use the FPP-1250S, just have the coolant port cut cleanly.

Both the 1250 and the 1250S gasket has the same design and both need to cut the coolant port. However, the 1250S has a 'metal plate', very thin and bendable like the stock gaskets. It can be cut out without much effort. Just get some some small cutters and trim it off

 

[Darek78]

Up date on the swap ...... For the first time it went pretty good
the only thing is that i messed up was i forgot to put oil baffle on the lower intake and i had to take it apart again
Ported upper and lower Edi performer made a nice difference that i can feel

Thank you all for advice and tips :SNSign:
the ffp-1250S all ready had water ports cut out ..... i guess they made improvement to the gasket so you don't have to cut out the port

thanks again

Derek.N

 

[5spd GT]

the ffp-1250S all ready had water ports cut out ..... i guess they made improvement to the gasket so you don't have to cut out the port

thanks again

Derek.N

That is some good information to know!

So there was nothing at all protruding into the coolant passages for the intake or head coolant passages?

 

[m0l0]

And to add more info on gradys post, not only back the TQ , also for the peace of mind use anti-seize on all the threads, that way you will grant a long life on your threads on a dissasembly

 

[Darek78]

5spd gt ..yes there was nothing to cut on the new gasket ..... when i looked on the old ones they had be cut out for the water port's the new one was ready to go no cutting
it was worth it to spend some extra money
and about the bolts i did use anti-seize on them and got them tq to 20 lb i guess
the tq wrench some times did not work the way it should no click
i was afraid to turn more because of aluminum heads
plus i did not put the egr back on made a plate for it and i had the sensor just plug d in and when i started the car after a few minutes i was getting a check engine light so what i did was pushed the pin on the sensor all the way back and had it taped this way ..............now no check engine light

Derek.N