idle prob

HyPer-50 said:

Not sure if this is the same thing that Calypso was talking about or not, but I've heard many people that had idle problems that nothing seemed to fix tried this part, and it fixed it. FMS part#f2pe-9f939-aa it's called an idler air spacer

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I'm hip, My idle has always been just a little rough, since I bought the car 10 years ago. But it has always been stable, no stalling or erratic problems. I just got that part you are referring to in the mail today from 50 resto. I'll be curious to see if it's what everyone makes it out to be.

PRO50SC said:

Are you aware that every time you change your base idle screw it changes the tps reading?

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ya, but im not sure other people know it and when they turn the idle screw everything goes to hell. i know mine did before i knew it, tps ended up being at 1.19 car would always stall. sucked, but all is good now.

PRO50SC said:

Are you aware that every time you change your base idle screw it changes the tps reading?

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Ok, so once i get my base idle set with the IAC disconnected the car will still surge if you lower the rpms to near 600, by surge i mean it revs between 500 and about 800, The surge will almost completely go away by adjusting the screw to about 900 rpm's. Any ideas what might be causing that?

When i leave the idle set screw at 900rpm, i should then disconnect the battery to zero out the tps? Plug in the iac and restart the car and adjust the idle to 900 rpm for 2 mins, shut it off, restart with a/c on run for two mins and then the idle should be set? Only thing with that is my idle drops about 200 rpm lower when i turn on the a/c.

Any thoughts fellas?

Ok, the reason it surges is because your base idle of 600 is too low. The base idle should be between 700-800 or so rpm's Once that is done then you can adjust your tps, it won't reset itself automatically. This is another mechanical adjustment you need to make. To check the setting as it is you will need to use a digital multi-meter, & some basic wiring knowledge. The Black wire is your ground the orange is your 5 volt reference wire & the green is the EEC feed wire. Probe the green wire with the positive lead & the black lead to the black wire. You may see readings from the mid .70v up to 1.0+v, the range that it is typically set at is .95-1.00v. You are looking for .95-.99 tenths of a volt.

Loosen the top two screws & turn it clockwise or counter clockwise until you get it in the specified voltage range. If you cannot get it into adjustment as it is you will need to remove the sensor from the car. Once removed from the car use the small drill bit to elongate the holes in a crescent shape. Reattach it to the vehicle, & adjust it until it reads Between .95-.97v . Tighten down the two screws & turn off the key. You do not need to reset the EEC, as it is really not necessary. Hope this helps. One more thing, have you ever taken the iac of the car, taken it apart and cleaned it? If not, take it off the car, take out the 2 phillips head screws and separate the valve. Be careful not to lose the o-ring and also make note of how the 2 halves are positioned. Take some carb cleaner and spray it into the non electrical half. Also while your doing this move the plunger in and out by pushing it with your finger. These thing are prone to carbon build up and this will affect the performance of the valve. Reassemble it and put it back on.

Thanks for the good write up, yes i just cleaned the iac the other day and it had no effect. I'll monkey around with the tps soon. I appreciate the knowledge and time it took to write that up.

PRO50SC said:

I have a p-1sc w/ 9lb boost and 3 core intercooler. Why did you take yours off?

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Well I took my blower off because I need to sell it to pay off a loan.. I have to buy a new car this year and I wanna pay off a loan before I do.. Plus I have a whole new setup thats going to go in this car over the next couple of years, so it will be down for a while..