Idle problem
- Thread starter randio
- Start date
nmcgrawj
Advanced Member
Are there mods done to the car? If its all stock and hasnt been touched, i dont see how it would idle that low without something being out of wack.
You can search how to "reset" your idle which is what guys do when they get a cam and are tuning and such. Im not sure if its different on a 94-95 setup, as i switched to the fox body Throttle body setup, but for me, i unplug the IAC connector. Unplug the negative battery cable too. Then after i give the computer some time to reset, i start the car with the IAC connector still disconnected and adjust the screw on the TB to get the idle rpm needed. Then i just plug the IAC connector back into the harness and im ready to rock.
But i believe there is a small difference on 94-95's on the TB, maybe how u adjust the screw or something. Im not sure, but do a search and you should find it fairly quickly.
Good luck
You can search how to "reset" your idle which is what guys do when they get a cam and are tuning and such. Im not sure if its different on a 94-95 setup, as i switched to the fox body Throttle body setup, but for me, i unplug the IAC connector. Unplug the negative battery cable too. Then after i give the computer some time to reset, i start the car with the IAC connector still disconnected and adjust the screw on the TB to get the idle rpm needed. Then i just plug the IAC connector back into the harness and im ready to rock.
But i believe there is a small difference on 94-95's on the TB, maybe how u adjust the screw or something. Im not sure, but do a search and you should find it fairly quickly.
Good luck
CManT1914
New Member
Stock idle should be 650, not 500. If you have a bigger cam, 800 or higher generally.
Try adjusting it this way:
MECHANICAL IDLE SETTING
'94-'95
Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.
The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.
Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.
Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.
Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
Try adjusting it this way:
MECHANICAL IDLE SETTING
'94-'95
Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.
The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.
Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.
Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.
Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
The stock intended idle speed is 672. The IAC is open some at idle to allow control of the speed. When the IAC is unplugged (or not working), the idle speed will be less, and probably close to 500.
Perhaps your IAC is not working (AKA closed) and your idle speed is your "base" idle speed.
Rick
Perhaps your IAC is not working (AKA closed) and your idle speed is your "base" idle speed.
Rick
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