I tried something that I think will help some with my voltage drop when lights and defroster are on. I turned the idle screw in 1 1/4 turns to bump up the idle rpms. Doing this keeps my volts above 12.9 when the compressor kicks in. Awhile back when I was having ICM problems I had moved the screw some, so I may not have got it back exactly where it should have been.
It makes sense to me that if the idle screw is turned in, the rpms will rise due to the increased throttle. The rpms are still below the 1k mark, unless it is cold and its trying to reach operating temperature.
I have seen how to set the iac, but it just says to set rpms at 700-800. Doesn't say how to know for sure what the rpm's are actally reading, short of looking at tach.
I have a VOM hooked up to the cigarette lighter and will continue to monitor the voltage and rpms with the compressor and lights on. If its just lights on, no problems, if its just compressor, no problem, but both were making the volts go down to 12.3 when compressor kicked on.
Yes, I have a 3g, but its only a 95 amp, the only one I could find that the case was the right size and available easily.
"? check 3g at auto parts place make sure regulator doing ok.ICM did you clean it or replace it. Use brake cleaner works good.That's my 2 cents worth"
I had the 3g checked befor I put it in last week. ICM is the ignition control module. As far as I know, you can't clean it. It is sealed electronics, maybe you were thinking the IAC. But thanks for at least posting a response. Posts in the 2.3 are pretty slim.This is the ICM