if air gets into my brakes system

Stang|ess · Dec 7, 2006

and I don't have ABS, can I just keep bleeding the fluid until I get all the air out?

MT1083 · Dec 7, 2006

i believe so. Just do everything in the right order. MC, rr, lr, rf, lf.....

Kilgore Trout · Dec 7, 2006

Isn't the MC done last and usually not at all?

MT1083 · Dec 7, 2006

I don't think people usually do it at all, but I just do it for good measure since I at one time had spony brakes. I was told awhile back that you were supposed to do it first if you did. Maybe I'm wrong....it wouldn't be the first time. haha

DTNODYA · Dec 7, 2006

It really doesn't matter ... I usually do RR, LR, RF, LF, MC (if pedal is still spongy)

Before you move past RR, make sure that the fluid doesn't have any air coming out. THEN go to the next one. And honestly, if you are trying to do it with a hand pump, it's wayyyyy more difficult. I struggled for like two hours with a good suction pump that I have ... got nowhere. Had a friend pump them mugs, the old fashioned way, worked in like 10 minutes.

The vaccum pulls the fluid (simulating pressing the brakes) but in my experience there is no better way than to have someone actually pump the fluid by pumping the brakes.

Just remember to keep fluid in the MC. Check it after each wheel to be safe.

Stang|ess · Dec 7, 2006

So it won't be a problem since I dont have ABS?

I know how to bleed the calipers, but how does one bleed the MC?

And for those of you who actually use search in the near future, http://www.bullittarchive.com/WebHelp/BullittArchive.htm > mustang main > brake flush

bdcardinal · Dec 7, 2006

there are 2 bleeders on the side of the MC. and yes, the MC is part of hte bleeding procedure, however you dont have to do it unless you service it.

danny04GT · Dec 7, 2006

If you let the reservoir run dry when bleeding the brakes, you will need to bleed the MC. It happened to me and I couldn't get much pedal pressure till I bled the MC.

Stang|ess · Dec 7, 2006

well I fugged up my bullitt brake install so both sides were dripping over night.

mc is first or last, getting conflicting info.

Stang|ess · Dec 7, 2006

well I fugged up my bullitt brake install so both sides were dripping over night.

mc is first or last, getting conflicting info.

jstreet0204 · Dec 7, 2006

The Master cylinder is usually only done when you install a new one, and then it should be bench bled, not on the car.

DTNODYA · Dec 8, 2006

Stang|ess said:
well I fugged up my bullitt brake install so both sides were dripping over night.

mc is first or last, getting conflicting info.

Did the MC run dry' or is there still fluid in there? If it's dry, it will just be more of a PITA to get the air out.

Stang|ess · Dec 8, 2006

it's dry. my brakes were dripping over night (last night)

triggz · Dec 8, 2006

I did a lot of searching around on this when I did my 13" brake install, and the overwhelming majority agree:

Ford HD fluid ($3/bottle)
Bleed MC, firewall side bleeder first

Bleed in order of furthest to closest calipers
Pass. Rear , Driver Rear, Driver Front, Pass. Front.

And you're going to have to do a LOT of bleeding to overcome running it dry..

LaserRed01GT · Dec 8, 2006

The MC really should be bench bled, but you can do it on the car if there was some fluid in there already. It's a 10mm bleeder on the passenger side of the MC. Stick a hose over the bleeder and bleed the fluid into a container. I always use a clear hose so that you can visibly see the air and when it has stopped.

You must bleed the MC first before you bleed the calipers so that the piston inside the MC can deliver normal braking pressure to the calipers.

Stang|ess · Dec 8, 2006

Thanks, those 2 posts helped immensely!

Except triggz, i believe its
RR, LR, RF, LF

The front drivers side would be last .

Just so I'm clear:
the bleeder closest to the firewall.
I put a clear hose over it
pour fluid
open up the screw
have a friend pump it once, and leave foot to the floor?
close it then he lets off the pedal, and repeat?

LaserRed01GT · Dec 8, 2006

Stang|ess said:
Thanks, those 2 posts helped immensely!

Except triggz, i believe its
RR, LR, RF, LF

The front drivers side would be last .

Just so I'm clear:
the bleeder closest to the firewall.
I put a clear hose over it
pour fluid
open up the screw
have a friend pump it once, and leave foot to the floor?
close it then he lets off the pedal, and repeat?

Almost You want to leave the bleeder screw closed at first. At first they might not have much pedal until you do a few bleeds, but after they do...have your buddy pump the pedal about 4-5 times and then have him/her hold the pedal as firmly as they can. Then crack the bleeder open just a little until your buddy gives you a signal that the pedal went to the floor. Then immediately close the bleeder.

Repeat over and over until you don't see any bubbles or air coming out of the rear bleeder.

Stang|ess · Dec 8, 2006

Do I repeat for the front MC bleeder?

DTNODYA · Dec 8, 2006

Yeah, you'd do the MC the same way.

Here's the easiest procedural way to go about the bleeding. Have an assistant sit in the drivers seat and push the brake 3 times and then hold (pressure on the brake pedal) ... So go like "One, Two, Three, Hold" .. Then, crack the bleeder open and have your assistant say "down" or "stop" when their foot touches the floor (maybe a little before) and then you close the bleeder.

So pump, pump, pump, hold ... crack the bleeder for like 2 seconds .. assistant says "down" or "stop" and you quickly close the bleeder. The goal is to have a solid stream of brake fluid coming out of the bleeder (no air bubbles). So keep doing the process until each wheel and the MC do not have air bubbles in the fluid. Remember to keep re-filling the MC as you go so it doesn't run dry again.

It's going to take some time, be patient and use whatever method you like ... I just thought I'd tell you how I do the procedure so you understand completely. Know what I mean?

Good luck.

Stang|ess · Dec 8, 2006

Got it, thanks you guys. Really appreciate it. This brake swap is a nightmare.

if air gets into my brakes system

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