I'm in over my head

MustangPaul

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2002

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South East Louisiana

Apr 2, 2004

#21

• Apr 2, 2004

• #21

So, how does one restick the dist?

--P

 

J

jesserose17

New Member

Aug 21, 2003

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Southern CA

Apr 2, 2004

#22

• Apr 2, 2004

• #22

You can pull up the dist up, holding the rotor in same position and as soon as you feel the rotor is disengaged, move the dist body counterclockwise a little bit while holding the rotor in the same position. Then set it down, you will feel the rotor mesh with the cam gear. The rotor will move a little bit as you move it up and down.

 

MustangPaul

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2002

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South East Louisiana

Apr 2, 2004

#23

• Apr 2, 2004

• #23

Hmmm. That sounds pretty straight forward.

Still, when I get involved, things rarely go as planned!

Thanks, J, I appreciate it.

--P

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Apr 2, 2004

#24

• Apr 2, 2004

• #24

Where are you located in Louisiana, Paul? I'm in Opelousas and could take a look at it if you're close.

 

pabear89

Active Member

Apr 15, 2003

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High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H

Apr 2, 2004

#25

• Apr 2, 2004

• #25

jesserose17 said:

You can pull up the dist up, holding the rotor in same position and as soon as you feel the rotor is disengaged, move the dist body counterclockwise a little bit while holding the rotor in the same position. Then set it down, you will feel the rotor mesh with the cam gear. The rotor will move a little bit as you move it up and down.

Click to expand...

I think you move the rotor, moving the body will not change the settings of the gear.
Lift the dist till you feel the gear free up from the cam and turn the rotor one tooth back.

You may have to bump the starter to realign the oil pump shaft.

PB

 

MustangPaul

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2002

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South East Louisiana

Apr 2, 2004

#26

• Apr 2, 2004

• #26

D.Hearne said:

Where are you located in Louisiana, Paul? I'm in Opelousas and could take a look at it if you're close.

Click to expand...

I'm in Hammond--I teach at SLU. How's things over there?

If things don't get better, I may take you up on your offer. Don't worry--I'd bring some ponchatoula strawberries if I come that way!



-Paul

 

J

jesserose17

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Aug 21, 2003

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Southern CA

Apr 2, 2004

#27

• Apr 2, 2004

• #27

pabear89 said:

I think you move the rotor, moving the body will not change the settings of the gear.
Lift the dist till you feel the gear free up from the cam and turn the rotor one tooth back.

You may have to bump the starter to realign the oil pump shaft.

PB

Click to expand...

The object is to move the vacuum body away from the thermostat, not changing the timing, so there's more room to advance if timing change is necessary.

 

pabear89

Active Member

Apr 15, 2003

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High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H

Apr 3, 2004

#28

• Apr 3, 2004

• #28

jesserose17 said:

The object is to move the vacuum body away from the thermostat, not changing the timing, so there's more room to advance if timing change is necessary.

Click to expand...

Both will accomplish the same thing.
With the dist removed and replaced as you discribed, timing should be rechecked as in mine also.
By moving the rotor and not the Housing, room for Housing movement will result to bring it back to the original setting.

I find it easier to slowly rasie the Dist and while holding the rotor to feel when it just clears the cam gear and count the cam teeth that I move it.
Sorta like stair stepping it.

PB

 

J

jesserose17

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Aug 21, 2003

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Southern CA

Apr 3, 2004

#29

• Apr 3, 2004

• #29

yeah, I agree either way will work, counting the cam teeth as you move the rotor is a good idea!

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

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Apr 3, 2004

#30

• Apr 3, 2004

• #30

You can also jump the wires around on the cap one position to accomplish the same goal. This isn't my favorite way to do it, but it works. Plays hell with any others that come behind you to figure it out when tune up time comes around.

 

D

D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000

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Apr 3, 2004

#31

• Apr 3, 2004

• #31

MustangPaul said:

I'm in Hammond--I teach at SLU. How's things over there?

If things don't get better, I may take you up on your offer. Don't worry--I'd bring some ponchatoula strawberries if I come that way!



-Paul

Click to expand...

Anytime, but the strawberries aren't necessary , the wife likes em, but I never got hooked on them.

 

MustangPaul

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2002

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South East Louisiana

Apr 3, 2004

#32

• Apr 3, 2004

• #32

Ok, this is weird

Hi all--

Advanced the timing to 12 and learned that cheap timing lights that use a spring between the dizzy cap and #1 wire can shock the %@^#@&( out of you if you touch them when not looking.

Took the car out and drove it. The surge has shifted from 55 to 45. Hmmmm. Vaccuum advance?

You know, I'm beginning to think my car is full of evil spirits.

Any ideas before I start rubbing a chicken foot over the engine to banish the spirits!

--P

 

pabear89

Active Member

Apr 15, 2003

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High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H

Apr 3, 2004

#33

• Apr 3, 2004

• #33

Well you seem to have narrowed it down.

I suspect the vac adv diaphram has a pin hole in it.
Allowing it to pulse backing the timing off,
Then recharging to advance only to loose it again.

Use a vac pump to pressure and see if it leaks back.


PB

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Apr 3, 2004

#34

• Apr 3, 2004

• #34

Better yet, just change the vacuum diaphram canister, they should be available locally from many parts houses. Can't be more than a few dollars for one.

 

MustangPaul

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2002

514

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South East Louisiana

Apr 3, 2004

#35

• Apr 3, 2004

• #35

pabear89 said:

Well you seem to have narrowed it down.

Use a vac pump to pressure and see if it leaks back.


PB

Click to expand...

PB What pressure should do it?

--P

PS Man, to think that a pin hole MIGHT be causing such problems. Sheesh.

 

Stanger007

Founding Member

Sep 26, 2001

2,015

2

46

Baton Rouge, LA

Apr 4, 2004

#36

• Apr 4, 2004

• #36

Hey Paul! I'm here in Baton Rouge - you can borrow the distributor from my car - brand new vac adv on my 302 w/ Pertronix unit if you'd like!

Should the dist's swap out, guys?

Wes

 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter

Nov 18, 2002

2,166

44

98

Cape Cod, Ma.

Apr 4, 2004

#37

• Apr 4, 2004

• #37

I thought you already removed the vacuum to the advance and it still surged, if that is the case the the diaphram is not the problem.

How tight is the distributor shaft, a warn bushing in the Dist. will cause the dwell to change while driving.

 

Stanger007

Founding Member

Sep 26, 2001

2,015

2

46

Baton Rouge, LA

Apr 4, 2004

#38

• Apr 4, 2004

• #38

Could the coil or grounding be at fault also?

 

O

Ozsum67

Too much thin air

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Jan 6, 2002

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Eastern Colorado

Apr 4, 2004

#39

• Apr 4, 2004

• #39

WORTH said:

I thought you already removed the vacuum to the advance and it still surged, if that is the case the the diaphram is not the problem.

How tight is the distributor shaft, a warn bushing in the Dist. will cause the dwell to change while driving.

Click to expand...

I've been trying to get him to see this, but to no avail.

 

MustangPaul

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2002

514

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South East Louisiana

Apr 4, 2004

#40

• Apr 4, 2004

• #40

ta-daaa, sort of.

Oz--the shaft is fine--the distrib is about 3 years old and all is as it should be there.

Anyway, replaced the vac advance as the old one was not holding a vaccuum. Once I got the freakin' e clip off the vac advance "arm" and replaced--it broke into a zillion rusty pieces--the new vac advance slid right in and the surging is all but gone.

Now, the only problem is that much of my get up and go is gone, too. Reset the timing and it is better, but not like it was. Still have to reset the dizzy back one tooth, but we should be good to go from there.

Still, thanks to everyone for your advice and help. I owe all of you a BEvERage of your choice.

I appreciate it!