Install on Cams?

kyles03sonicgt · Dec 6, 2005

To install cams, do you have to pull the motor?

streetstang03 · Dec 6, 2005

nope

i have a few install links in here:
http://www.stangette.com/community/showthread.php?t=120

Kilgore Trout · Dec 6, 2005

You will not need to pull the engine. You will need however, the skills and tools of a professional mechanic...

COramprat · Dec 6, 2005

Kilgore Trout said:
You will not need to pull the engine. You will need however, the skills and tools of a professional mechanic...

Ummm...not neccesarily. Just basic mechanical inclination and a decent Craftman socket set. All I needed anyway...

Kilgore Trout · Dec 6, 2005

Like I said, skilled mechanic ^

stangman · Dec 7, 2005

Kilgore Trout said:
Like I said, skilled mechanic ^

1st time i've been referred to (remotely) as that

03ghoststang · Dec 7, 2005

no you wont...but you will require good mechanical knowledge on what your doing

tomustang · Dec 7, 2005

Nope, everything can be reached fine

View attachment 495283

03ghoststang · Dec 7, 2005

that is a real nice pic there only if it were easier to do headers

hdbiker1 · Dec 7, 2005

03ghoststang said:
that is a real nice pic there only if it were easier to do headers

I wonder if when changing heads if header install would be easier?

COramprat · Dec 7, 2005

03ghoststang said:
no you wont...but you will require good mechanical knowledge on what your doing

Yes...I wouldn't suggest just anyone jump into a cam install. But if you have some basic knowledge you can get it done.

03ghoststang · Dec 7, 2005

if it's LT it would still be pretty hard but i don't know about shorties

03ghoststang · Dec 7, 2005

coramprat said:
Yes...I wouldn't suggest just anyone jump into a cam install. But if you have some basic knowledge you can get it done.

well i have plenty of experience with this setup cause i use to work for mercedes benz and they use the OHC setup so it is fairly easy to me. Their setup would be 4V, 3V and the 2V but for someone who dosent have enough knowledge i agree dont get into it

DocG · Dec 7, 2005

Hmmm....that install article makes it sound complicated, but I guess most of it is removing stuff to get clearance. Sounds so confusing reading it, but I bet its easier when you're actually doing it. I want to do my install so bad when I eventually get cams...but don't want to end up causing lots of damage or costing me a small fortune. Maybe I'll do it over the summer when I have 6 weeks off work (one benefit to working for public schools)...and if it takes me 2 weeks to do it, no big deal.

soctty7676 · Dec 7, 2005

So when I do the PI head swap, do I have to take the exhaust manifolds off first, or will the heads come out with them still attached?

[Twitch] · Dec 7, 2005

streetstang03 said:
nope

i have a few install links in here:
http://www.stangette.com/community/showthread.php?t=120

AWSOME!

kyles03sonicgt · Dec 8, 2005

Hey 03ghoststang, I noticed you have stage 1 VT cams. Are you completely satisified with them? Do you wish you would have went with the stage 2's? Are you also happy with your sound at idle? Thanks - Kyle

Mel96GT · Dec 8, 2005

kyles03sonicgt said:
To install cams, do you have to pull the motor?

It depends. If you are installing cams with the same timing as the stock ones you can use the Anderson tool or the Ford cam-changing tool. This makes the job a lot easier. That is what I used and it was simple. However, if you are changing the cam timing you will need to dissassemble the front of the engine, but not remove it.

COramprat · Dec 8, 2005

Mel96GT said:
It depends. If you are installing cams with the same timing as the stock ones you can use the Anderson tool or the Ford cam-changing tool. This makes the job a lot easier. That is what I used and it was simple. However, if you are changing the cam timing you will need to dissassemble the front of the engine, but not remove it.

Just the accessories and the crank pulley. That is to get to the timing cover.

The install is not that complicated. Lots of stuff to remove but overall it can be done in a day or 2. I was pretty anal and labeled EVERYTHING from the bolts out of the alternator to the sensor harnesses. I even numbered them so I would remember the exact position I removed them. That way you don't leave one out or forget where it goes. Especially helpful with the timing cover and valve cover bolts.

billfisher · Dec 8, 2005

dude changing cams is a four hour job.

at most.

make a 3/4"x3/4"x18" piece of wood.

take off the valve covers.

loosen the cam bolts.

release the tensioner locking spring. (a little hole behind the oil pressurized plunger). pry the plastic tensioner to release pressure on the plunger GENTLY!!!!! then release the lock. you will feel and hear the lock release the plunger. use a coat hanger cut at an angle to a sharp point to insert into the plunger lock(ratchet pawl).

insert the wood between the chain followers. i used a hammer to push it into the followers. remove the cam retainers. front to back. the cam will lift with the pressure of the cam followers/springs. remove the cam followers by hand. USE TIE WRAPS BETWEEN THE CAM AND CHAIN TO RETAIN POSITION OF THE CAM. tie the chain to the cam an a couple of places. slide the gear off of the cam, holding it in place to avoid losing tension on the crank gear. if you lose it you will have to remove the front cover. slide the new cam in place on the head and put the cam gear on it. put the caps back in their original paces. put follwers back on. done. repeat for other side. very easy. very very easy. almost too easy. very similar to changing a 22R toyota cam.

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Install on Cams?

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