installed my taurus fan and DC Controller. Pics
- Thread starter cenok is family
- Start date
oohh okay. i'll take your word for it and get new mounting brackets on there soon.
thanks for all your help!
i spliced into the coolant level sensor for my 12v switch source.
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
Looks like a good start!
Some minor suggestions:
It's hard to tell from the pictures. But, you never ever want anything touching the fins of a radiator. Those stupid POS kits where they use/give ties to attach a fan to a radiator are pure garbage!
Over time, anything touching the fins/cores of a radiator will rub through the fins/cores and cause a leak.
IMHO, a right angle bracket, with a notch cut out at the bend, would be better.
You can also use steel epoxy putty (and maybe some screws to give it something to bite into) at the bracket corner to prevent flexing and do it with a no-weld solution.
Last, paint the bracket to prevent rusting.
Some minor suggestions:
It's hard to tell from the pictures. But, you never ever want anything touching the fins of a radiator. Those stupid POS kits where they use/give ties to attach a fan to a radiator are pure garbage!
Over time, anything touching the fins/cores of a radiator will rub through the fins/cores and cause a leak.
IMHO, a right angle bracket, with a notch cut out at the bend, would be better.
You can also use steel epoxy putty (and maybe some screws to give it something to bite into) at the bracket corner to prevent flexing and do it with a no-weld solution.
Last, paint the bracket to prevent rusting.
The low speed circuit is there so that the fan starts at low speed, avoiding the locked rotor current spike. This controller isn't variable speed, so if it's starting up slowly, either the fuse holder or motor is failing. I assume the two wires coming out of the high speed side of the controller go to the high and low speed of the fan, meaning the motor is what is probably in the process of burning itself up.
- Jul 21, 2005
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Stang and 2 birds, doesn't the fan touch the radiator and fins? Haven't quite found how to float mine and still make it effective...
if your worried about the fan touching the rad use some type of foam gasket around the shroud, it helps 2 ways, rubbing & seals the shroud against the rad for better airflow
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
No factory fan or shroud touched the radiator fins. And, do not use a foam gasket! Sigh, more interweb BS.
Just use/make some angle brackets.
Also, Summit has some very nice
brackets that also work well for installing most electric fans with full shrouds onto radiators.These brackets slip right over the edge of the radiator flange - similar to how the bottom stock fan shroud bracket clips slip over the bottom on the radiator flange.
Be Cool 72054 - Be Cool Electric Fan Module Mounting Brackets - SummitRacing.com
Be Cool 72054 - Be Cool Electric Fan Module Mounting Brackets
View attachment 213389
Note that ~$3 angle brackets (with an extra bend added) from Home Depot or Wal-mart also do a perfectly fine good job!
i.e. (extra bend at the top)
Code:
| (start of added bend)
| (<- Mount to radiator here)
| (end of added bend)
+=====+
|
|
|
|
|
|
| (<- Mount to fan shroud here)
|FWIW: When I was a teenager, my radiator lasted about 2 years.
(In my defense, that was before I started any of my real Mechanical Engineering classes.
)Anything from a 0.10" to 0.50" gap between the shroud and the radiator should be fine. For brackets done by people (i.e. not from the factory), I like a gap of ~0.20". That allows for plenty of shroud and bracket flex, yet allows very little air seepage in. The amount of air flow going in from that size gap will be minimal.
BTW: While semi-on the topic, for mechanical fan blade location and shrouds:
In a mechanical fan setup, the "near ideal" location for the fan blades are so that they are ~1/2 into the edge of the fan shroud. But, as long as the mechanical blades go past the outer edge of the fan shroud, they are likely okay. If they are too far in the shroud, then there is wasted energy (and less air flow) by having the fan move the air out from the shroud.
IMHO, having a mechanical fan too far inside the shroud is of little concern. It's when the mechanical fan blade tips are over 0.5" outside from the fan shroud, that a lot of air flow being drawn through the shroud is lost.
Good Luck!
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
finally got around to installing my taurus fan and DC controller. pretty straight forward, the install went smoothly.
BTW: The type of bar stock that you used is very weak. Especially for the lengths that you're using, I'd strongly suggest going to solid bar stock, and drilling the appropriate holes.
If you want, you can keep the same style of bracket that you have now. Just add ~0.10" to 0.15" of spacing (washers, spacers, etc) at the top to keep the fan shroud from touching the radiator.
Also, put some paint on the brackets. Rattle can, or brush on Rust-Oleom is fine. You want to prevent the brackets from rusting and weakening as they age and get wet.
Good Luck.
BTW: The type of bar stock that you used is very weak. Especially for the lengths that you're using, I'd strongly suggest going to solid bar stock, and drilling the appropriate holes.
If you want, you can keep the same style of bracket that you have now. Just add ~0.10" to 0.15" of spacing (washers, spacers, etc) at the top to keep the fan shroud from touching the radiator.
Also, put some paint on the brackets. Rattle can, or brush on Rust-Oleom is fine. You want to prevent the brackets from rusting and weakening as they age and get wet.
Good Luck.
thanks a lot for the info. yeah i plan on just changing them out for something a little more sturdy. i haven't been driving it much the past week so i havent felt an urgency to do so yet, but i'll get some that make the shroud stand-off a bit.
beyondspexj
Member
Beasty306GT
Active Member
i am doing the same fan setup...have you changed out the straps yet? im curious... and how well do you like the 2 speed fan controller i ordered mine 2 weeks ago...
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