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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

installed my taurus fan and DC Controller. Pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter cenok is family
  • Start date Start date Jul 11, 2010
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NIKwoaC

中國製造
15 Year Member
Oct 31, 2006
5,525
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Chengdu Province
Jul 13, 2010
#21
  • Jul 13, 2010
  • #21
What switched 12V source do you use?
 

cenok is family

15 Year Member
Jun 25, 2003
1,409
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79
Norman, Ok
Jul 13, 2010
#22
  • Jul 13, 2010
  • #22
HISSIN50 said:
If your coolant is hotter than the target temp (in the grocery store scenario), as soon as you turn the key on, the fan will ramp up quickly. It starts fast enough to create a good bit of torque.

The ramp-up feature applies more when you approach the target temp from a lower temperature. It's very gradual as it approaches the target. If you're already above the target temp, the controller will go to 100 % DC pretty quickly.
Click to expand...

oohh okay. i'll take your word for it and get new mounting brackets on there soon.

thanks for all your help!

NikwoaC said:
What switched 12V source do you use?
Click to expand...

i spliced into the coolant level sensor for my 12v switch source.
 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member
May 4, 2000
2,091
5
58
New England. :-) CT/MA
Jul 13, 2010
#23
  • Jul 13, 2010
  • #23
Looks like a good start!

Some minor suggestions:
It's hard to tell from the pictures. But, you never ever want anything touching the fins of a radiator. Those stupid POS kits where they use/give ties to attach a fan to a radiator are pure garbage!

Over time, anything touching the fins/cores of a radiator will rub through the fins/cores and cause a leak.

IMHO, a right angle bracket, with a notch cut out at the bend, would be better.
You can also use steel epoxy putty (and maybe some screws to give it something to bite into) at the bracket corner to prevent flexing and do it with a no-weld solution.

Last, paint the bracket to prevent rusting.
 
B

baskin

Member
Nov 1, 2003
152
0
17
Jul 17, 2010
#24
  • Jul 17, 2010
  • #24
The low speed circuit is there so that the fan starts at low speed, avoiding the locked rotor current spike. This controller isn't variable speed, so if it's starting up slowly, either the fuse holder or motor is failing. I assume the two wires coming out of the high speed side of the controller go to the high and low speed of the fan, meaning the motor is what is probably in the process of burning itself up.
 

fiveohwblow

Official Member
15 Year Member
Jul 21, 2005
2,169
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155
Jul 17, 2010
#25
  • Jul 17, 2010
  • #25
Stang and 2 birds, doesn't the fan touch the radiator and fins? Haven't quite found how to float mine and still make it effective...
 
S

sd331

Member
Sep 9, 2008
69
19
18
NJ
Jul 19, 2010
#26
  • Jul 19, 2010
  • #26
fiveohwblow said:
Stang and 2 birds, doesn't the fan touch the radiator and fins? Haven't quite found how to float mine and still make it effective...
Click to expand...

if your worried about the fan touching the rad use some type of foam gasket around the shroud, it helps 2 ways, rubbing & seals the shroud against the rad for better airflow
 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member
May 4, 2000
2,091
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58
New England. :-) CT/MA
Jul 19, 2010
#27
  • Jul 19, 2010
  • #27
fiveohwblow said:
Stang and 2 birds, doesn't the fan touch the radiator and fins? Haven't quite found how to float mine and still make it effective...
Click to expand...
No factory fan or shroud touched the radiator fins. And, do not use a foam gasket! Sigh, more interweb BS.

Just use/make some angle brackets.
Also, Summit has some very nice brackets that also work well for installing most electric fans with full shrouds onto radiators.
These brackets slip right over the edge of the radiator flange - similar to how the bottom stock fan shroud bracket clips slip over the bottom on the radiator flange.
Be Cool 72054 - Be Cool Electric Fan Module Mounting Brackets - SummitRacing.com
Be Cool 72054 - Be Cool Electric Fan Module Mounting Brackets

View attachment 213389




Note that ~$3 angle brackets (with an extra bend added) from Home Depot or Wal-mart also do a perfectly fine good job!
i.e. (extra bend at the top)
Code:
| (start of added bend)
| (<- Mount to radiator here)
| (end of added bend)
+=====+
      |
      |
      |
      |
      |
      |
      | (<- Mount to fan shroud here)
      |



FWIW: When I was a teenager, my radiator lasted about 2 years.
(In my defense, that was before I started any of my real Mechanical Engineering classes. )

Anything from a 0.10" to 0.50" gap between the shroud and the radiator should be fine. For brackets done by people (i.e. not from the factory), I like a gap of ~0.20". That allows for plenty of shroud and bracket flex, yet allows very little air seepage in. The amount of air flow going in from that size gap will be minimal.



BTW: While semi-on the topic, for mechanical fan blade location and shrouds:
In a mechanical fan setup, the "near ideal" location for the fan blades are so that they are ~1/2 into the edge of the fan shroud. But, as long as the mechanical blades go past the outer edge of the fan shroud, they are likely okay. If they are too far in the shroud, then there is wasted energy (and less air flow) by having the fan move the air out from the shroud.

IMHO, having a mechanical fan too far inside the shroud is of little concern. It's when the mechanical fan blade tips are over 0.5" outside from the fan shroud, that a lot of air flow being drawn through the shroud is lost.


Good Luck!
 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member
May 4, 2000
2,091
5
58
New England. :-) CT/MA
Jul 20, 2010
#28
  • Jul 20, 2010
  • #28
cenok is family said:
finally got around to installing my taurus fan and DC controller. pretty straight forward, the install went smoothly.

Click to expand...


BTW: The type of bar stock that you used is very weak. Especially for the lengths that you're using, I'd strongly suggest going to solid bar stock, and drilling the appropriate holes.

If you want, you can keep the same style of bracket that you have now. Just add ~0.10" to 0.15" of spacing (washers, spacers, etc) at the top to keep the fan shroud from touching the radiator.

Also, put some paint on the brackets. Rattle can, or brush on Rust-Oleom is fine. You want to prevent the brackets from rusting and weakening as they age and get wet.

Good Luck.
 

cenok is family

15 Year Member
Jun 25, 2003
1,409
69
79
Norman, Ok
Jul 21, 2010
#29
  • Jul 21, 2010
  • #29
stang&2Birds said:
BTW: The type of bar stock that you used is very weak. Especially for the lengths that you're using, I'd strongly suggest going to solid bar stock, and drilling the appropriate holes.

If you want, you can keep the same style of bracket that you have now. Just add ~0.10" to 0.15" of spacing (washers, spacers, etc) at the top to keep the fan shroud from touching the radiator.

Also, put some paint on the brackets. Rattle can, or brush on Rust-Oleom is fine. You want to prevent the brackets from rusting and weakening as they age and get wet.

Good Luck.
Click to expand...

thanks a lot for the info. yeah i plan on just changing them out for something a little more sturdy. i haven't been driving it much the past week so i havent felt an urgency to do so yet, but i'll get some that make the shroud stand-off a bit.
 

beyondspexj

Member
Oct 30, 2009
265
0
17
Las Vegas
Jul 26, 2010
#30
  • Jul 26, 2010
  • #30
a lot of good info in here! glad i found this thread since i just got my fan in as well.
 

Beasty306GT

Active Member
Dec 19, 2002
671
4
28
Oxford,Mass
Mar 19, 2011
#31
  • Mar 19, 2011
  • #31
i am doing the same fan setup...have you changed out the straps yet? im curious... and how well do you like the 2 speed fan controller i ordered mine 2 weeks ago...
 
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