installed new TB
- Thread starter loudexhaust
- Start date
Put your ground to the black/white wire. Then test the other 2. One should be at around 5 volts, the other won't be.
The TPS volts (the one that isn't 5 volts) should be at about 1 volt with the throttle closed, but the specific voltage doesn't actually matter. The comptuer checks the voltage when you turn the key on, and markes that as "closed". It doesn't matter if is .9 .97 or 1.02 volts.
Most people do make the EGR to TB transition smooth. I think you'll probably find that there's no difference in peformance.
But that's just me
.84v is fine...
The ecu will accept values from about .7 to 1.2v.
No need to mess with it.
If you still feel the need (as so many do), then you need to 'elongate' the holes in the sensor.
Again, there is no point in doing that though...
jason
The ecu will accept values from about .7 to 1.2v.
No need to mess with it.
If you still feel the need (as so many do), then you need to 'elongate' the holes in the sensor.
Again, there is no point in doing that though...
jason
i would definatly open up the EGR spacers hole. did you not a buy a matching spacer for the TB?
buying a bigger TB and still running the stock spacer is useless. the bigger TB will do no good if the air is still having to squeeze through the stock EGR spacer. its like not even upgrading the TB at all.
sort of like putting 2.5 inch exhaust and leaving stock 2.25 tail pipes. the system will only flow as good as its weakest link.
buying a bigger TB and still running the stock spacer is useless. the bigger TB will do no good if the air is still having to squeeze through the stock EGR spacer. its like not even upgrading the TB at all.
sort of like putting 2.5 inch exhaust and leaving stock 2.25 tail pipes. the system will only flow as good as its weakest link.
i'd open that up also.
when i had my tmoss ported lower with my old combo. i used a stock upper. i just opened the stock upper up to match my 70mm TB, and blended it back as best i could... 10X better than having a step for the air to hit and cause turbulence which slows airflow.
the stock intake goes from a circle and smashes into a tall rectagle to clear the middle bolt holes holding the upper down. not much you can do with a stock upper unless you can do besides work on the TB inlet side and port match the upper-lower holes, or you can cut it apart and port on it and weld it back together. but according to Tmoss, the stock upper isnt really a restriction and works well with a ported stock lower.
upgrading a TB on a stock headed, stock intake stock MAF car isnt going to do much, first off the stock MAF is smaller than a stock TB, even if you had a bigger MAF and TB, the stock intake and heads are the real choke points before the TB. but it sure does look like the stock maf meter is a big choke, its pretty small.
Yes you can, but then you'll notice that the inlet of the upper intake manifold is the same size as your current egr spacer.
Thing is, you can't really open up the upper intake after the EGR spacer without extrude honing. Ultimately you're right back down to the same diameter intake as the stock TB and EGR spacer. So like you said before, it's still going to squeeze through the same size hole.
Loudexhaust, just bevel the edges of the egr spacer to match the TB size if you want to. You don't need to port the whole thing out.
Personally I don't think the "step" makes any difference. The air is still going to stall in the plenum before going in to individual runners. Turbulence you may generate at the TB inlet isn't going to live past the plenum. This is the same reason gimmicks like the "tornado" don't work.
But, it won't hurt anything to bevel it out to match the TB size if you just feel better having the step gone.
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