Installing a dual master cylinder on my 1964 1/2. How should I hook up the lines?

gregp1962 said:

1964 1/2. Manual brakes. 4 years ago, I put disks on the front. I have been running the single master cylinder since then.

The rear brake line got burned by the exhaust. So, I'm using this opportunity to replace the master cylinder too.

The new master cylinder is for a 1967. It has two ports. (The link below describes the nerw one)

The current lines have two for the front and one to the rear. I also need to install the brake light switch in the front lines somehow.

Does anyone know of a good how to article or just a good description on how to do it?

New master;

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP16765/...partType,00007/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Click to expand...

The link posted does not work for me.

I'm guessing that you installed a dual reservoir MC, for a '67, that is designed for discs front, drums rear? If so, then it will have the residual pressure valve already installed in the secondary port of the MC (the port closest to the front of the vehicle). You will not need to install any inline RPV with that MC.

There will be three ports on one end of the ('67-up factory) valve, and two ports on the other end. The MC line from the primary port (the port closest to the firewall) goes to the top port of the valve ("top" will be the side that the pressure warning switch is sticking out of), on the end that has the three ports.

The MC's secondary line will go to the top port on the end of the valve that only has two ports.

On the end of the valve that has three ports, one of the front brake lines will come out of the front port, and the other front brake line will come out of the bottom port. --it doesn't matter which line goes to what front brake, since the port coming straight out the end of the valve, and the one comming out the bottom (on the end with three ports) are common to each other.

The remaining port on the bottom of the valve (on the end that only has two ports), will be the one to feed both rear brakes.

If you have dual exhaust on a car that originally came with a single exhaust, get a flexible brake hose (that goes between the hard line coming from the front of the car to the top of the top of the rear end housing). It will have a longer mounting bracket on it to position the hose and hard line further away from the path of the left hand exhaust pipe.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If at some point you install discs on the rear, and you decide to add an inline manually adjustable proportioning valve, you will need to gut the secondary side of the factory valve (remove the piston and return spring: http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/217/guttedproportioningvalvqt1.jpg

Once the piston and spring are removed from the factory valve, you will need a cap to plug the end of the valve with, such as this: http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...2450-A&searchinresults=false&N=+115&y=11&x=34

A side point. The 67' Mustang disc brake cars ONLY came with power assist. Typically a power assist MC would have a different piston bore than a true manual brake car. Not sure how this will affect your braking or if it will give any issues.

When I do the conversion, I use a late 70's Granada MC which was available with both manual disc brake front and drum rears.

dennis112 said:

A side point. The 67' Mustang disc brake cars ONLY came with power assist. Typically a power assist MC would have a different piston bore than a true manual brake car. Not sure how this will affect your braking or if it will give any issues.

When I do the conversion, I use a late 70's Granada MC which was available with both manual disc brake front and drum rears.

Click to expand...

Although the MCs are different, both manual and power brake MCs for '67, have a 1" bore.