Intake Questions

[Noobz347]

It just do happens that you have the C&L meter that makes a lot of us cringe at the site of the thing. Try clocking it at several different positions to see if you can get it to smooth out.

I was reading through your other symptoms and it looks to me like you have a vacuum leak someplace. Pour over that motor with a fine toothed comb and see if you can spot one. Also... drop your base timing 2 degrees.

The references above about your tune are talking about a tune that might not fit your setup correctly. You purchased a mail order tune that was created by someone who's never laid eyed on your car. The chances that, that tune doesn't match well with your combo are very high.

 

[a91what]

I would like to scan the car but the diagnostic port does not match what is listed on this site.. i have no sti port with a white/red wire....
i have just the diagnostic port it has a white/red wire. next to that a white/ black wire.
on the next row i have a port with two wires in it both are blue/tan.
then a space is empty and i have a tan/green wire.

i think the white/black and white/red are what i need to jumper but i want some input....
dont want to fry a new a9l..

I will check again but myself and others have poured over the engine bay looking for vac leaks we have not found any..

 

[Noobz347]

Post pic of your connector.

 

[a91what]

I would love to but i cant if you go to the post on e303 problem? they have a pic of the connector in the thread my connector looks just like the one in the pic minus the sti port with a w/r wire.. sorry i cant be more descriptive.
In the drawing they made things are similar to my connector except for the sti wire seems to be integrated into my plug..

Also i ran around the engine bay very carefully with some carb cleaner. i found that if i spray on the egr i get a small change in idle. I also get a change in idle if i spray in the center of the tps... i have a new tps and a proffesional products 75mm TB with the adjustable tps plate.

I also hear a turbulant noise (hard to describe) when i get near the mouth of the intake around the TB but i cant tell where it is coming from..

Thanx

 

[a91what]

Ok so i replaced the egr with one i had off another engine.. the one on the car before was not sealing correctly and letting air past the piston.
The tps is letting A LOT of air past it. i sprayed carb cleaner down on it and the car revved up pretty good, took the tps loose and cant see any reason air should get in the TB but i dont see a o-ring down near the butterfly just a hard plastic gromet up high to stabalize the tps.....
The shaft for the butterfly has a slight amount of play on it. Any idea on how to seal it.?

 

[a91what]

Ok so i took the car on a test run. opened the hood at the convienience store and heard the whiring noise. unplugged the vaccum line running to the emmisions and all the noise went away.... i guess the two little canisters to open and close the egr were leaking i sprayed them down with carb cleaner and the car sent rev happy...
I have unhooked the egr and am going to delete the emmisions. my dad will be happy he has been trying to get me to delete this stuff since i started this project a year ago.
Now i am going to reset the idle with iac and the spout unplugged and unhook the battery to clear the computer.

Do you have any idea as to why my A/F ratio gauge would read like it does? ( see previous post's) Think it is compounded issue or bad sensors? (the sensors have just 6k on them).

Have not tried clocking the MAF. Do you know how to check voltage to see if it is malfunctioning...

 

[a91what]

Ok the car is tuned up and running alot better than before
The emmisions are deleted i didnt want to but after pricing everything that needed to be replaced..... i made my own egr block off plate.
I reset the idle in the manner you suggested the car idles alot better 1000rpm and does not buck or jump while in gear anymore while im happy those issues worked out it idles higher than i like it no longer has that muscle car lope.
---base idle at 800rpm ---I readjusted the tps after reseting the idle. ---set the timing to 12* ---set the fuel pressure to 40lbs ---i tried clocking the maf to the 3 o'clock position, revved the motor and POP!. so i set it back to 12 o'clock.. ---The car has 32lbs fuel pressure at idle but still smells rich.
--- the A/F gauge does something now but only when the stock tune is in place. seems when chip is on the car runs to lean for the A/F to read it unless the peddle is to the floor. But it still smells rich. with the tune on or off

 

[Noobz347]

What AFR sensor and gauge do you have installed? Is it a wideband sensor?

 

[a91what]

It is a narrowband sensor soldered into the output to the computer, the sensor has 6k on it and its a cheap-o sunpro gauge... I know its just a light show and means nothing but it should still at least bounce around..
My better half loves the pretty colors on the way home from the bar.
Im more interested in the rich condition not sure what to do.

 

[Noobz347]

It is a narrowband sensor soldered into the output to the computer, the sensor has 6k on it and its a cheap-o sunpro gauge... I know its just a light show and means nothing but it should still at least bounce around..
My better half loves the pretty colors on the way home from the bar.
Im more interested in the rich condition not sure what to do.

You can't count on it to mean anything. If it throws a code then replace it. O2 sensors don't take kindly to sitting in lean/hot air streams for very long before giving up the ghost.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC

 

[a91what]

Ok the sensor did start reading again. seems the tune is just to lean.
Another Question: the cold start still sucks alot.. when i did get it to sit and idle, i press the gas slightly and the car would try to die on me i did this several times. When i went to check the tps voltage i got no reading i cycled the key and then got a perfect reading... What are the chances a new tps would die on me? should i just swap it with a used one i have lying in a parts bin.
(the tps was new from late model resto) i order alot of my parts from them.

Still cant read codes.

 

[stykthyn]

If you can't read codes then you have problems. The computer will not go into diagnostic mode which means its also not monitoring a whole slew of sensors all if which affect idle and drive ability.
go back to your stock tune if you haven't done so And leave it there until you have all your problems ironed out.

 

[foxna6]

Both wires should be in the same plug if not you can try a obd1 scan tool from your local auto store you really need to know what codes a stored

 

[a91what]

ok thats the answer i was looking for.. thank you.
on the surging idle checklist it says i should have an sti connector that is not part of the diagnostic port my port has a w/b wire next to the w/r wire. From your previous statement am i to assume that these are the wires i am supposed to jumper together?
Do i jumper them THEN watch the test light?
A full explaination of the procedure would be helpful thank you.

-----I cannot read the codes because i do not fully understand the procedure to attain them, i have not yet attempted to dump the codes becouse of the risk of frying the computer. see post #24
--If you are looking at the diagnostic connector it has two rows of ports. the first row only has 2 ports in which the w/r wire and w/b wire reside.. the second row has four ports, of which only two are utilized it has what i can assume is the fuel pump check wires (they look blue/tan stripe) and the tan/green stripe wire for the check engine light.

 

[a91what]

ok guys besides dumping the codes i think i have it all figured out.
the tps voltage was hanging up and jumping around, so i put an old one on works great.
the smog was deleted when i got the car but all the vac was still functional, after very careful searching it was leaking at the egr and bap sensors so i deleted it all..
the iab valve was not actuating properly, so i replace it with one in my parts bin works great.
and after reseting the base idle the car idles excellent when warm.
also replaced the temperature sensor for the pcm.

The only thing i have not figured out is the idle before the o2 sensors warm up. as soon as my light show begins the idle smooths out.... I cleaned the maf sensor but its the only thing i have not touched so far clocking the maf seems to aggrevate the issue. does the maf affect idle thank you.

 

[stykthyn]

Maf does indeed affect idle. For giggles do you have a stoker you can swap in?

 

[a91what]

unfortunantly no..... when i bought my C&HELL it required i use my old sensor..... and they cost an arm and a leg....
I believe replacing that one sensor will probably hash out the last of the issues... all i can do at this point is throw some money at the car, at least the rest of the problems were solved at no cost.... and my better half always accuses me of keeping useless ... lol THANK GOD FOR THE OLD PARTS BIN!!!

 

[a91what]

Ok so i replaced the MAF today after work and reset the computer. First time i het the key she fired right up, no stalling, no sputtering, no erratic idle. Just nice, smooth, music to the ears rumbling.
It would seem that the guys up at Thomas speed dont know a darn thing about Mustang's they looked at the car twice and said aside from running rich nothing was wrong........
Needless to say ill never have my car there again. I appreciate all the help figuring out the mess.
Now i can look tward getting the new heads on the car..

 

[foxna6]

Good work keep it up

 

[a91what]

well crap.... I guess i exclaimed victory too soon. Started the car this morning and it died over and over.... when i got it running it stumbled out of the drive and poped a few times...... I dont know if it is a lean pop or a rich pop or a missfire. it sounds like its in front of me though...
It drove fine for 40 miles. let it sit left work and it poped some more.... then ran fine for 40 miles...... it was raining today so i did not get a chance to romp on it... It will usually pop twice in a row a louder one then another softer one then power..