So, I have an interesting issue that occurs infrequently and usually goes away after a few minutes and doesn't come back for >1week.
BTW, this was never an issue before I swapped my battery to my trunk.
What happens is the stang starts to run pretty rough while the idle speed jumps around by a couple hundred RPMs. It stays running for a while, if idling, but the computer seems to have to work really hard to actually keep it engine running like that. When driving, and under acceleration, it seems like someone installed a Pinto 4-cyl under the hood (or even less) until the issue suddenly goes away.
The thing is, if it happens while I am driving, it is like someone is trowing a switch back and forth to turn the whole issue on and off. Sometimes it will be on/off a few times in a few seconds while it is happening, if I am driving. In a few minutes, no more issue. If I am idling, it still goes on/off, but will spend a few minutes exhibiting the symptoms, then not for a short time, then a few more minutes. If the engine stops/stalls while this is going on, I can crank the starter over like gangbusters, but the engine will not start. Then, magically, a couple minutes after pushing it out of the way of traffic, taking a look under the hood (finding nothing wrong), and then closing it again, and the car is fine and starts right up. I even get all the way home - no issues.
In addition to the running problems, there is the fact that the windows will not roll up/down, and the dome light will not turn on at all (not even dim, by eye, at night). What is really weird, is that if I turn on the emergency flashers and open the door, the dome light decides to "work". Unfortunately though, it just flashes along with the emergency flashers (not "steady on", like a dome light should be).
There is no CEL/code, either. Even after the car idled like crap for ~10 minutes or so while I tried to get through a drive through like this.
I was hoping for some help in identifying some things I can check (when it is and/or isn't happening) before engaging someone @ $100/hr. In that light, how about what seems to work fine when this happens? The door locks work, the headlights are fine, and the radio works like normal (stock wiring to the head unit in the dash).
I don't see any problems with the wiring for the trunk mounting of the battery. Alternator, battery, and the fuse blocks involved in that are all fine. The ground for the battery to the frame in the back is also fine. The thing is, the 0ga going to the trunk has a 3/8" diameter copper conductor, alone. It is between 1/2" and 5/8" in outside diameter, actually. Since that monster is running under the dash, through the driver-side kick panel, then down the driver's side and into the trunk - I wonder if sometimes it might push/rub other wires in that area and cause an intermittent short/disconnect.
Also, a note on the battery relocation details. The stock wire from the alternator still goes to the stock location (that power distribution fuse block's ring terminal, IIRC), but now the battery has a new 0ga wire that connects it directly to the alternator from the trunk. Right before the move, the voltage at the battery terminals (w/ the engine running) was 13.86v. Right after the move, the voltage I got was 13.82v. I think it is fine back there.
What really kills me about all of this, is that there is no fuse that is ever blown, and it will just start working again after a bit.
Ideas? Thanks in advance, guys.
BTW, this was never an issue before I swapped my battery to my trunk.
What happens is the stang starts to run pretty rough while the idle speed jumps around by a couple hundred RPMs. It stays running for a while, if idling, but the computer seems to have to work really hard to actually keep it engine running like that. When driving, and under acceleration, it seems like someone installed a Pinto 4-cyl under the hood (or even less) until the issue suddenly goes away.
The thing is, if it happens while I am driving, it is like someone is trowing a switch back and forth to turn the whole issue on and off. Sometimes it will be on/off a few times in a few seconds while it is happening, if I am driving. In a few minutes, no more issue. If I am idling, it still goes on/off, but will spend a few minutes exhibiting the symptoms, then not for a short time, then a few more minutes. If the engine stops/stalls while this is going on, I can crank the starter over like gangbusters, but the engine will not start. Then, magically, a couple minutes after pushing it out of the way of traffic, taking a look under the hood (finding nothing wrong), and then closing it again, and the car is fine and starts right up. I even get all the way home - no issues.
In addition to the running problems, there is the fact that the windows will not roll up/down, and the dome light will not turn on at all (not even dim, by eye, at night). What is really weird, is that if I turn on the emergency flashers and open the door, the dome light decides to "work". Unfortunately though, it just flashes along with the emergency flashers (not "steady on", like a dome light should be).
There is no CEL/code, either. Even after the car idled like crap for ~10 minutes or so while I tried to get through a drive through like this.
I was hoping for some help in identifying some things I can check (when it is and/or isn't happening) before engaging someone @ $100/hr. In that light, how about what seems to work fine when this happens? The door locks work, the headlights are fine, and the radio works like normal (stock wiring to the head unit in the dash).
I don't see any problems with the wiring for the trunk mounting of the battery. Alternator, battery, and the fuse blocks involved in that are all fine. The ground for the battery to the frame in the back is also fine. The thing is, the 0ga going to the trunk has a 3/8" diameter copper conductor, alone. It is between 1/2" and 5/8" in outside diameter, actually. Since that monster is running under the dash, through the driver-side kick panel, then down the driver's side and into the trunk - I wonder if sometimes it might push/rub other wires in that area and cause an intermittent short/disconnect.
Also, a note on the battery relocation details. The stock wire from the alternator still goes to the stock location (that power distribution fuse block's ring terminal, IIRC), but now the battery has a new 0ga wire that connects it directly to the alternator from the trunk. Right before the move, the voltage at the battery terminals (w/ the engine running) was 13.86v. Right after the move, the voltage I got was 13.82v. I think it is fine back there.
What really kills me about all of this, is that there is no fuse that is ever blown, and it will just start working again after a bit.
Ideas? Thanks in advance, guys.