is my car dead

kenzo0315

Member
Jun 17, 2025
21
1
13
Miami
Hello everyone thank for stopping by and reading this i need some help with my 99 3.8L i haven't been able to figure out what was wrong with it for almost a month now from what i can recall the day when it stopped working i had to get a jump in the morning to get to work made it to work then when it was time for my lunch break i coudlnt get the car to start up my co worker cam over to give me a jump no dice he had a spare battery in his truck and it started up i shortly went back to work when it was time to get home the car started up normally no issues maybe 15 mins into the drive during the drive i traffic was coming up and i needed to slow down a bit went for downshift (4th-3rd) and the car felt so weak and the car got abnormally loud it didnt sound like anything was grinding or broken the exhuast just became louder than normal the car itself is pretty loud already but, The sound was unbearable. I hit the gas pedal, and the car wouldn't accelerate; it just kept coasting. Even switching gears didn't change anything; none of them seemed to respond to the throttle. I would hit the gas, and I would hear the engine, but it just wasn't going anywhere. I finally made it to the side of the highway and tried to get the car back on. It would crank, but it wouldn't start. I called my co-worker to see if a jump would help, and it didn't. He put his working battery out of his truck into mine, but no luck. The car's been sitting for almost a month, and I don't know what I'm doing or what I should be looking for. It would be great to get some input from anyone who can help. Thank you.
 
Last edited:
I would start by doing a compression test,
A quick test would be to pull the distributor cap and spin the engine over and see if the rotor turns. I say that because you mentioned the change in exhaust tone.
 
I would vote to start with the basics- Fuel•Air•Spark. Which one do you not have?
only checked for fuel, and I can confirm that I'm getting fuel. I didn't do a pressure test, but I'm getting fuel nonetheless. I replaced the fuel filter not too long ago, and it's working fine don't know how to check for spark or air just yet, still learning.
 
I would start by doing a compression test,
A quick test would be to pull the distributor cap and spin the engine over and see if the rotor turns. I say that because you mentioned the change in exhaust tone.
went to pull off the i don't think my year has rotor style system, besides that I went to go turn the crank bolt and 15/16 6-point would not stay in there snug The bolt looks like this, not sure if it's rounded of,f but the socket would catch on some parts of the bolt but not all
crank bolt.webp
 
Pretty sure you have a distributor-less ignition system , should have coil pack(s).

Will it crank with the key?
I have these if this is what you're referring to, and yes, it cranks when I turn the key, but now I hear a single click of the starter and no crank, not sure if I burnt out my starter or not (the wires were not out when I tried cranking)
distib.webp
 
  • Like
Reactions: RaggedGT
I have these if this is what you're referring to, and yes, it cranks when I turn the key, but now I hear a single click of the starter and no crank, not sure if I burnt out my starter or not (the wires were not out when I tried cranking)
distib.webp
Yup,those are coil packs. As a great car whisperer once said” All good projects start with a Battery on boil.” Lol
Make sure you have a charged battery- then verify you have power to the starter
 
Yup,those are coil packs. As a great car whisperer once said” All good projects start with a Battery on boil.” Lol
Make sure you have a charged battery- then verify you have power to the starter
I'm on my 4th battery, before one of them was brand new, and the others were used. How would I test if power is going to the starter though?
 
Ok, no distributor so that leaves me out, only suggestion I can make is to buy a repair manual, sounds like you be learn'n stuff.
And a digital volt/olm meter to test the starter/battery and wires.
Got a volt meter, all the batteries I had were well above 12.4V and even had them on jumper cables while cranking, no dice though. Is there a specific repair manual you have in mind?
 
I wonder if pulling codes would be a good start? The whole situation with the issues of the engine running/loud engine, etc are likely not related to the starter. But, here is an updated engine specific guide to test the starter:

 
  • Like
Reactions: Noobz347
I wonder if pulling codes would be a good start? The whole situation with the issues of the engine running/loud engine, etc are likely not related to the starter. But, here is an updated engine specific guide to test the starter:

Going to check out the link to the article you sent, thank you. As for codes, I'm not sure I have any recent codes due to the car sitting for so long not connected to a battery. Not sure if the ECU has anything recent, but anyway, these are the codes that I got
1751417635172.webp
 
I think that B1353 might be part of the problem. Google that because it sounds like your starting issues.
The B1353 Ford diagnostic trouble code (DTC) refers to an issue with the Ignition Key-In Circuit Open. This code indicates that the vehicle's computer has detected an open circuit in the ignition key-in circuit, which is responsible for detecting whether the ignition key is inserted in the ignition switch. The ignition key-in circuit is crucial for various vehicle functions, including starting the engine, enabling accessories, and preventing theft. https://www.engine-codes.com/b1353_ford.html

It honestly might be the root of my issue. What would be the next course of action?