I mentioned in one of the previous post that the all the batteries I tried were on jumper cables getting charged while attempting to crank and using a volt meter showed that all of the batteries were well above 12.4 v while on the jumper cables I let the batteries charge for a good bit before trying to crank
I brushed off that code due to it being a stored code it could’ve been from original battery I had and despite what iBattery I tried the code still came up even with a charged new battery I know new may not always guarantee good I just don’t see the batteries being the issue anymore
If the batteries are good, next step is to check the cables are transporting the voltage all the way to the starter, check ground connections too.
Once you get the car cranking good then you can diagnose the engine condition.
I'm kinda methodical on fix'n junk, not that I'm successful....
If the batteries are good, next step is to check the cables are transporting the voltage all the way to the starter, check ground connections too.
Once you get the car cranking good then you can diagnose the engine condition.
I'm kinda methodical on fix'n junk, not that I'm successful....
@General karthief haven't had much time to work on the car due to constant downpours, but while taking a glance just to see if I missed anything, I found out that these wires were barely being held up by the heat shrink they were in, and it was the same story with the blue wire on the side. Do you have any idea what these wires are for? They run under the intake manifold.
Can’t tell but, I can say with a 100% certainty it runs under the intake manifold can’t tell where it connects to just yet I need to get a better look at it. With a quick tug I can make the assumption that it doesn’t go too far down. I’ll take a look at it when I get home from work