Is this a good radiator?

65fastbackresto · May 12, 2008

http://www.partsamerica.com/product...N&MfrPartNumber=7265BCCAX&PartType=31&PTSet=A

I think its aluminum, but it dont say for sure.

I`ve got a hot little motor and the stock rad isn`t doing the job if its warm outside, and I`m fixing to add air conditioning......

Any help is greatly appreciated.

65FBE2 · May 12, 2008

Thats a good rad, but for the money get a Northern alu rad. I think you can get them from Summit. They are around a $150 cheaper and actually are better built with more modern manufacturing methods. I have one in my 347. You still need a good fan and a shroud will help. I can sit in traffic all day and never gets over 200.
Looks like they private lable them for Summit. By the way this is a built in the USA product

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...908331+4294908282+4294924707+115&autoview=sku

65fastbackresto · May 12, 2008

That one is almost half price of the other one.

I`ve heard good things about the northerns too.

66Runt · May 12, 2008

Griffin makes great radiators.
Here it is at Summit for a little less money.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-7-265BC-CAX&N=700+0&autoview=sku
If you have a little more budget, and want to stay stock physical size here is a better cooling capacity:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-7-565BC-CAX&N=700+0&autoview=sku
Core size is pretty small on the stock size radiators for first Gen Mustangs. If you want good cooling, it takes a bit of modification to the radiator support, but you can fit a larger radiator in.
I'd also suggest that if you increase the cooling capacity of the radiator, that you go to a high volume water pump to keep the pressure and flow up.
I'm about 2 weeks away from putting this into my '66:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-7-568BC-FXX&N=700+0&autoview=sku
This will require some extensive modifications, but will allow me to run the supercharger and A/C, no matter what the ambient conditions are.
Good luck,

BarnStang · May 12, 2008

http://stores.ebay.com/FRED-MOTT-RACING_Cooling-Systems_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ5QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Wow. Took me awhile to re-find this. Not sure how competitive his prices are, but he sells Northern alum rads. Found him at Carlisle selling Falcon parts.

Rusty67 · May 13, 2008

The grifon's are nice if you got the cash but I didn't at the time. I've got a northern and I'm REALLY happy with it. Mine took a little work because it was a universal radiator but it was like just over 220 shipped.

65fastbackresto · May 13, 2008

66 Runt

That 2nd one you listed is NICE, I`m gonna call Advance and see if he can get that one for me. For less then $100 more then I`m paying now, I could have 1 inch thicker rad. Plus if I upgrade to bigger motor later it would still work out good.

I just called Advance and ordered the 3 inch thick one, thanks 66 Runt.

65fastbackresto · May 14, 2008

The new Griffin is on the way.

Its the 1 1/2 tube one the runt suggested. Am I gonna need to upgrade the water pump or anything to go along with this? There is gonna be alot more fluid being moved around right?.....

Some history here, its a new build (one year old) hot little 302 with Edelbrock heads (I did not get the steam holes drilled in the block, I`m hoping that isn`t the problem). But it has a new 3 core radiator that just wont keep it cool if its warm outside. I`m adding air conditioning soon too...

10secgoal · May 14, 2008

Didn't see it mentioned, but the Northerns aren't direct fit. You have to mount them. And any that I've sen don't have a cooling section for an auto. but I couldn't tell if you needed it by your sig.

65fastbackresto · May 14, 2008

10secgoal

The griffin I mentioned is direct fit, I was just curious what else I may need to do while I`m tearing stuff down.

I haven`t been able to cool this car very good since I got it, I think when you run higher ccompresion and a larger cam, that maybe you generate a little more heat then a stock radiator can handle, but I`m guessing, I`m a newbie to this car stuff.

I just thought with more coolant in the system that I might need a water pump with more capacity, but I dont know.

66Runt · May 14, 2008

That radiator will be a nice fit.
As per my first post, I'd recommend a high volume water pump and you may want to look at a high volume thermostat as well. Two other things you may want to consider.
One is opening up the lower valance (like the fiberglass Shelby "R" style, or Terilingua with the cutout) that allows much more air flow over the radiator.
Second would be to add an external transmission cooler. Transmission fluid life is directly related to heat. Above about 175*F transmission fluid starts to loose it's life span. I was taught (years ago) that every 20*F above 175*F effectively reduces the transmission fluid life by about 1/2.
When you add the A/C condensor, keep it to within 1/2" of the radiator core to prevent turbulence between the two.
Good luck!

mdjay · May 14, 2008

17" blues

If you want real cooling on your 65-66, you're better off moving to the 67 20" radiator in alum. More air and water volume.

66Runt · May 14, 2008

I had been debating on whether to cut up the stock support and fabricate a new "cone" or weld in a '67 core support.
I Just looked at the picture of your radiator and support, and made up my mind, it's worth replacing the core support.
That's a very clean install Jay!

mdjay · May 15, 2008

Thanks for the compliment. You'd be surprised how many people blow by that. It just looks stock and you forget what year you're looking at. It's a more extreme route to take, but worth it if you need that kind of extra cooling to go to the 24" rad. The hood line is identical. The only issue is a little fill needed around the battery tray, and your hood latch will sit a bit higher so the hook on you hood will either have to be modified or removed. Currently have the engine out right now so I decided to make the core support bolt in and out in the mean time.

65fastbackresto · May 20, 2008

Hey 66runt

One is opening up the lower valance (like the fiberglass Shelby "R" style, or Terilingua with the cutout) that allows much more air flow over the radiator.

What is the Terilingua thing your talking about here.

Also have general question about the griffin, does it take a 16 lb or 7 lb pressure cap? I`m looking at billetspecialties website.

iskwezm · May 20, 2008

youcan also cut your support, thats what I did on mine, the radiator goes from frame rail to frame rail

Rusty67 · May 21, 2008

When you cut the core support do you need to reinforce anything at all or is what you removed not very structural ?

iskwezm · May 21, 2008

Rusty67 said:
When you cut the core support do you need to reinforce anything at all or is what you removed not very structural ?

it is a little weaker, but because my paint cant be matched, i didnt reinforce mine.Its been fine for a few years now, dont see any cracking or anything.

Rusty67 · May 21, 2008

If I end up doing that to mine I'll provably have enough front end reinforcement anyways so I don't think I'll have to worry about it. Good to know you havn't had a lot of problems, especially with all that torque you got =)

04mustang70 · May 22, 2008

Check out the seller Fabianbatista on ebay. I bought a 2 core aluminum radiator w/ trans. cooler for my Mach1. Got it for 210 dollars including shipping. Took it to a reputable radiator shop to get it pressured tested and the guy couldn't believe what I paid for it.

Is this a good radiator?

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