Nice .........Nice , didn't think I'd have togiven the direction that this thread is going... dont worry about it yet.
Those door bars aren't 10.0 legal. No chutes visible... what does it run?
You should try being a bit more specific about what parts you installed. Just saying that you've replaced them, doesn't give us much to go on.Now as for needing more suspension work done to help keep the damn thing from blowing the tires too bad
I have subframe connectors, Rear upper and lower LCA's, tokiko hp blues struts and shocks, eibach pro's, Hotchkis caster cambers, strut tower brace ( hopefully it fits with new engine/intake), new bushings and ball joints, poly end links up front less than 2 yrs ago.
Anything else I surely need to do to the suspension? I am going to upgrade the brakes as soon as I need brake work if not sooner.
lmfaoNo idea. The dude built it "Road Warrior" style then sold it a few months later. Since the thread was bouncing from stock rebuild to the Arcane Stone of Erebor, I thought I'd toss in another possibility.
lol let me name the few items that I didn't associate with a brandYou should try being a bit more specific about what parts you installed. Just saying that you've replaced them, doesn't give us much to go on.
i have to double check on the LCA's, could be another brand. I looked for something that had great reviews from street guys and some who track their cars as well as with poly bushings that came in them.Your strut tower brace will probably not fit.
Your rear control arm selection leaves MUCH to be desired.
Eibach lowering springs? Those aren't helping.
I have a list I want you guys to tell me where I'm going to save money doing a 363 vs 400. I see where I can save possibly $1200 and only difference really being the block that I use. Sure that's a lot of money but I'd definitely have more overall power and torque with the 400. If 363 and don't have to go with a 205 cc head then that's money saved there as well
1. Dart block - 2000 vs 351 stock b- around 800 I'm thinking
2. Other internals with either b- 1-2000
3. Trans- 2100-4200 ( either A5, Tk0600 or one from Liberty gears, still same tranny though)
4. Intake - around 820
5. AFR 205- 2100
6. Cam- 200
7. AFM power pipe- 500 including Maf and filter
8. 1 3/4 Longtubes- 500
9. X pipe- 500
10. probably another $1300-1500 dollars in other miscellneous
These numbers are rounded up some.
I hear ya man. Haven't talked to my builder yet. Probably will tonight and all things will be considered. I read a nice article or thread/posts on " how much HP is too much for the street " and it along with you guys as well as my builder has me really not rushing and going to just go with ultimately what I feel will make me and my wallet the happiest. I also don't want to regret doing or not doing anything. I also want to make sure I can get the power transferred to the tires and keep them from spinning as much as possible on street tires. Next time I need tires if I have to spend more to get the best stick I will . I realize nothings cheap in doing this and want to be satisfied and ultimately for a weekend driver won't be mad for splurging on the weekendsYou'll never find the savings in a 10 item list. It's when you get to the 100 item list you really start to see the difference. It's when you get to he things like, I have two AC hoses that have to be extended 4" each, and that will be $89 plus two trips to the hose shop.
Kurt
I've been searching. And thing is buying something and relying on it to be what someone says it is. These days if you aren't in the loop of a group or really know the folks you may be dealing with, it's a chance you would have to take. I have been searching for other stangs to buy and didn't search for built cars but stumbled across some and checked them out. Is there a certain place other than the for sale areas of forums?My advice, before I'd even consider spending 10+ grand on a Dart based engine for a plain ole swapped engine street car, buy a car already built.
But if I don't find the car with the motor I want to do or the motor I want rather the motor is going to have to be built regardless and it's not an issue right now I know I had a thread about modular vs pushrod and I'll probably end up with with two Mustangs and if I need to get a modular later on I probably will just wait and get one but I definitely want to have a pushrod motor as well . I understand what you're saying about you know making horsepower with the newer cars etc 03 04 / Terminator and stuff but truth of the matter is I probably will have to Mustangs and either way I will end up doing a push rod motor at some point so its no rush to go ahead and do the modular now. Sorry for the run on sentences but speaking to text at the doctor office right now lol.All comes down to what your after and what you can afford. I'm gonna speculate and say that if you actually have the funds you are talking about spending that the money is not the main issu, but buying the right car or parts etc is more important. In that case, do exactly that and dont dump 10k or more into a 2k car.
So if I bought the TFS pistons that say lmr sells and then just bought the proper crank etc for. 347 id be solid or even a 363? I really just like the idea of a 347 so if I could with the 4.125 then at 1650 for a brand new in box dart shp I would think that’s a good deal.Tfs heads require a tfs piston... period, you can build whatever with the 4.125 block the only difference is the bore is much larger.
Uhh no.So if I bought the TFS pistons that say lmr sells and then just bought the proper crank etc for. 347 id be solid or even a 363? I really just like the idea of a 347 so if I could with the 4.125 then at 1650 for a brand new in box dart shp I would think that’s a good deal.
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