Jacking and Bracing for 66 Convt

Here's the full Monte on a real basket case:

1968 Shelby GT500 Convertible

palerider94 said:

Just bought another mustang - 66 vert. Needs full restoration (pans, inner rockers, torque boxes, etc). Front and rear frame rails look good so far. Plan on pulling motor suspension, etc. but need some advice on set up to roll around and bracing points. Probably will eventaully get a rotissorie. Any help would be appreciated.

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Here is a link to some pic's of my 65 vert restoration. The very first step you must do is to align at best all your gaps and sheet metal before any removal of body parts. One of the most important braces are the door's ones. These will keep your door well in perfect distance and after everything is painted individually just drop your doors and they will fit like a charm. I used at all times the original engine braces on the car to keep the shock towers in place. An old straight Monte Carlo bar was also use in the engine bay. That help a lot at the moment we replaced the front frame rails and the front torque boxes. I also made a very strong brace using 2" x2" x 1/4" square tube that was installed in the holes were the lower control arms are held. That help while the aprons were been replaced. I held the rear end in place up to the last moment and then it was replaced with a custom made rear brace the same thickness as the front one 2: x 2: x 1/4" tube. I didn't use the Rotisserie cuz I had purchased the "CAR TILTLER" from Liqui Tech as you can see in the pictures at the website. I will say that my replacing of 99% of every sheet metal and compact was a snap. The missing 1% was because the new sheet metal had bad fitting and quality problems. Now.. this was back in 2002 in a time that full floor pans were not available, cowls had to be patched a few other parts were not been reproduced. Today it may be a different story.
1965 mustang.net