Jumping car from solenoid

that would not be safe but would work in a pinch

how about if the battery dies pop start the car so you can pop the hatch to charge. Forgot to ask if its manual or auto

Once you hook up jumper cables to your solenoid maybe you could turn your key to the on position and pop your trunk and then jump your battery? Just a thought

I have no answer for you on that since the battery relocation is on my to do list as well. The only thing I'd recommend is that you do not under size the gauge wire used.

But I'm going to go off topic and have to ask how you like the 410 gears with a 5 spd? Does it feel like you're shifting too soon before peak power? rpm's too high when cruising back highways or the freeway in 5th gear?

The solenoid trick should work.

Another method that would lead to self-sufficiency: For convenience, tap into the feed wire from the popper and create an access point to apply battery voltage (you're just adding a leg that's easily accessible since it's a pain to remove the trunk popper switch and access those wires). The access point (wire) could be hidden behind the kick panel, under the rear seat or where ever you like.

Grab a 9v battery and see if it will pop the solenoid. I'm thinking it might. If so, neato. Then you can get into your trunk without needing someone's help.

Rear mouted battery:

For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.




The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

HISSIN50 said:

Grab a 9v battery and see if it will pop the solenoid. I'm thinking it might. If so, neato. Then you can get into your trunk without needing someone's help.

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I like your idea, but the car still wouldn't start. The battery still needs jumped

f8tlfiveo said:

I like your idea, but the car still wouldn't start. The battery still needs jumped

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The idea behind this is to access the battery for jumping in a shaved key trunk if the battery was dead (in a vert).

FoxMustangLvr said:

The idea behind this is to access the battery for jumping in a shaved key trunk if the battery was dead (in a vert).

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Yes, I understand. What I am saying is whether you do the 9 volt trick or just make contact with jumper cables on the solenoid. You still need a jump no matter how you open the trunk. I think the 9 volt idea is genius though. Sounds like something I would try out.

If someone carries a jumper pack in the trunk, the 9V allows one to access the jumper pack and battery in order to start the car. This would remove dependence upon an outside power source (or person).

HISSIN50 said:

If someone carries a jumper pack in the trunk, the 9V allows one to access the jumper pack and battery in order to start the car. This would remove dependence upon an outside power source (or person).

Click to expand...

Very true..good idea