Junk Yard DIY Turbo Project - Underway!

JerryDaugherty said:

Im going to try it guys. Hopefully mine will turn out better than the other guys whos "welds look like ass". Im compiling a list of the misc things I will need like clamps hoses and the like. I know I will be missing something so thats what you guys are for Anyway Im going to atleast three yards today and while Im there depending on what I find I will decide to go single or twin turbo. Here is the list of parts I have so far from Summit. So far not to bad at under $100 shipped to my door:

For the lines I wanted something I could mold outa of the way. I thought these lines would do a good job. Turbomustangs.com said it was the right size for the flow:
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...sults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=29&y=7

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Looks good for the oil feed. It's plenty long.

These are the fitting nuts and bolts to complete the oil lines:
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...ults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=10&y=12

Looks fine for the lines. Just pick up a double flaring tool from AutoZone. You'll also need to buy some t-fittings to tie into your oil sending unit log. You'll need some adaptors to tie those into the fittings you listed above…as well as the fittings that go into the turbo's.

[/QUOTE]These are the fittings that will be tapped into the pan. Order X2:
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...ults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=11&y=10[/QUOTE]

Those are way to small for the drain. You'll want to use at least a 5/8" drain hose (high quality hydraulic). I personally used 4 1/2" npt to 5/8" barbed fittings from lowes. Two will be used in the oil pan, the other two will be used on the turbo's. You'll also need two of these flanges for the turbo's. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ry=33742&item=7982012506&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[/QUOTE]These are the T lines for the oil sending. Order X2:
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...ults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=36&y=12[/QUOTE]

Ok, so you've found a T. The problem is it has an AN fitting which would require much more expensive braided flexible line as well as fittings for the line. To keep it cheap, pick up some brass fittings from carquest, napa etc. Do some searching for the sizes you'll need.

[/QUOTE]These are the exaust tubes I will be using, 3 inch all the way through cold and hot side. Order X2:
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...sults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=28&y=9[/QUOTE]

For twins, the 3" will be to big for most of the cold and hot side. You only need 2" or 2 1/2" tubing coming off of the turbo compressors. You can merge them into the 3" though with no problem. You probably will not have enough room for the downpipes to be 3"….at least not if you plan on hooking it up to your h-pipe.

I would also recommend buying some mandrel bends. Not only do they look better, but they will flow better too. You can bend your own, but you will sacrifice looks and flow. You will also need a large dia. pipe bender.

[/QUOTE]And these are misc clamps. Order X3:
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...sults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=41&y=9[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

Not sure what you would need those for. You'll be welding almost everything.

Here is a link to my buildup. While I didn’t list quite everything needed, you'll get the jist of it. LINKY

All of the advise I stated for above was for a twin setup. I wont comment much about the single setup, as I have not researched it nearly as much as the twins.

Because like said above a mandrel bender is around $4-5k and a standard crimp bender that most shops use is $1-2k. Get the J and U bends and fab it up. Use a couple short peices of 1" angle to get the seams lined up before yuou tack them together. I do it all the time for powerpipes etc. In fact I just ordered a bunch or 1 5/8" J bend to fab pipes for a friends Kawasaki vulcan 1500cc bike. Should work out well for under $60 compared to some new vance and hinds for $470.

Heck, when I did the Capri I just used schedule 40 PVC from Lowes and it worked out well on the cold side. The turbo to intercooler lines were 1 1/2" EMT (2" pipe) connected with some old radiator hoses.

The downpipes were 3" hand fabricated and worked well.

Jamie

you can get a bender for cheap from harborfreight.com

Just buy your own bends, its cheaper. I got all of mine from summit. Looks like you bought an awful lot of straight pipe. I bought one of those and used maybe a foot of it.

http://store.summitracing.com/defau...earchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp

The amount you are going to need will depend on how you route them.

it might be possable to get some failed bends from a speed shop that has a bender for next to nothing. I got like 12 scrapped bends from a friend of the family who runs a shop for 5 bucks to make a wierd spud gun a few years ago. Spud gun didnt work tho

go stare at your engine for a while and figure out how to you want route all your tubing. I would do 2.5" on the hot side, and if it's twins do 2.25" for the cold side, for single do 2.5" on the hot and cold, and 3" exhaust.

You can also use brake line to feed the turbo(s) which is what I did since it was just so much more cheaper, and not to mention easier.

JerryDaugherty said:

Im really excited about doing this, but now that I think of it, I dont have alot of money and I would hate to get this done, and then the Stock t-5 go. How much would another good auto cost me after a trade for the t-5 or sell? How much can I get for a T-5.

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Well you could trade the T-5 for a decently built C4. Or trade for an AOD and ask for a $100 and put a valvebody and nonlocking converter in it.

with a stock clutch. a good long while i'd say. Depending on how you drive you may lunch more than your fair share of clutch's but its better than replace'n a tranny.

JerryDaugherty said:

I see. How long do you think a T-5 with a stock cluth will last with over 350 RWHP?

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You should be fine with that if you don't beat up on it alot. I plan to make 450rwhp with a sc61 I'm waiting for in the mail right now. It'll be a few months before I get everything rounded up but atleast I'll have the turbo here at home with me!

I plan to run my exhuast this way:

http://forcedfab.com/images/Mustang/mustang1.jpg
http://forcedfab.com/images/Mustang/mustang2.jpg

I learned a lot from here: http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/

Good luck and post pics of progress. That always helps.

The T5 will be fine for a while on the steet. I only lunched mine a hitting second at the track under boost with a cold combo (off trailer) Mowed the teeth right off and sounded like crap dragging it back to the trailer.

As said above you'll spin in first and second and third can handle a good bit of power, fourth is straight though and the strongest 'gear' to be in. Even if you do boost it in third and fourth it'll most likely start to spin on steet tires.

My Capri used to mow off a set of 26 x 12 ET streets in second rolling at 2500rpm on the street. Wicked fun.


Jamie