Just bought a 67 Mustang

SilverLX351 · Jan 11, 2004

I just bought a 67 mustang, It has a rebuilt 289 with edelbrock intake, holley carb, and tri-y headers. the tranny I think is a C4 and feels like it has a shift kit. It has some rust, the driver side floor, the bottom of the 1/4's, and one spot under the back window. I paid $1150 for it, currently registered and totally driveable. I plan to swap out the C4 for a T5, convert the interior to black, put on disc brakes all around, do gears and then paint.

my questions are:

1. Can I tell what gears I have without pulling the rear end apart? How can I tell if its an 8 or 9 inch?

2. I want to put a cam in it, what would be a good cam?

3. Are the stock '67 289 heads better or worse than stock 88 5.0 HO heads?

Thanks for any help, or any advice on what I plan to do. here is a pic of the car and motor:

6Stang7 · Jan 11, 2004

Good project car for a good price. You can find the gears out by looking for the metal tag on the diff. When you find it, write down what it says and post it and I'll decode it for you. Most likely it's an 8" with 2.79 gears. AS for the heads, I would say that the 88 will flow better, but the compression on the 67's may be higher. And as for what cam you shold get, it all really depends on what heads and intake you go with.

-Shaun

SilverLX351 · Jan 11, 2004

Thanks for the reply, 2.79 sounds about right on the rear end...very long gears. Would you suggest switching the heads? I plan to keep the edelbrock performer intake, stock 289 or 5.0 heads, and put in a cam.

thanks!

Fostang · Jan 11, 2004

I would swap out the heads for some e7 and mill them to bring the compression back up.

They also have hardened valve seats for burning unleaded gas.

Good luck and you will soon find out it will never end, because your ideas will always change.

12sec67 · Jan 11, 2004

the cc chambers on the e7 are 64 and 289 heads are 55-58 cc's if you put e7 on they may flow better but you will still loose power because you be going from 9.5:1 to 8.5-9:1.

lose compression=lose horsepower

stick with the 289 heads or find some winsor heads!

take a pic or the rear and we will tell you

95% chance you have an 8"

65shlbycln · Jan 11, 2004

Good project! What do you have planned for it cosmetically? Is there a hood scoop on it? it looks like there is.

SilverLX351 · Jan 11, 2004

I dont have much planned for the body, except to fix the rust, then paint it. It has a fiberglass hood with a scoop, its pretty cool. I like the 68 1/4 panels better, I dont like the little grills but I dont want people to think its a 68 so I dont know there. I plan on leaving off the emblems too....I might get a cowl hood for it. I will take a pic of the rear and write down the numbers on the tag and post later. Since the motor was rebuilt a couple years ago, my guess is that it has hardened seats since when I bought it they didnt mention having to put lead in it. I am going to save up for some heads, what would go good on it? I am going to change the interior to black, put in some good seats either brand new mustang or some racing buckets, and make my own instrument cluster using autometer guages. The heater hoses arent hooked up, so I am guessing the heater core is shot...how hard is it to replace?

thanks for all the comments!!!!

charlies · Jan 11, 2004

jme makes a sweet instrument panel for it w/ autometer guages. here's a link:

http://jmeenterprises.com/67dash.shtml

aren't they nice? sure they are expensive, but supposedly they hook right up. if your going to do it, you might as well do it right.

heater core=pain in the tucas, take your time, don't break anything, replace everything while your under there.

SilverLX351 · Jan 11, 2004

That is a lot of money, I think I could make it look that good on my own. Thanks for the link though.

Edbert · Jan 11, 2004

SilverLX351 said:
That is a lot of money, I think I could make it look that good on my own. Thanks for the link though.

The JMEs are great but at $800 I chose to do it myself too, unfortunately the gauges will cost you about $500 if you do. Here's my write-up on the gauge swap:
http://www.edbert.net/gauges.htm

It is just my opinion but changing the heater core is pretty simple I thought. If you have factory A/C is is harder but not a big job.

SilverLX351 said:
I like the 68 1/4 panels better, I dont like the little grills but I dont want people to think its a 68 so I dont know there.

GASP...heresey...blasphemer!

D.Hearne · Jan 11, 2004

He'd do better to start with researching what heads are now on the motor and what motor it exactly is. Could ge a late model 5.0 in there, the valve covers are definately from an 86-up H.O. 5.0. Check the left side of the block for a dipstick hole. Or maybe if he feels up to it, remove the starter and get the block casting#s from behind it. I'd definately do this before buying any other hi-po heads or parts.

SilverLX351 · Jan 12, 2004

It does have late model 5.0 valve covers on it, I pulled the valve covers off and the arent the bolt down style rockers like 5.0's, they are factory stud mount ones. It doesnt have AC so I will try the heater core sometime soon!

thanks

SilverLX351 · Jan 12, 2004

Edbert: that cluster looks so awesome, way better than JME's in my opinion...nice work!!!

D.Hearne · Jan 12, 2004

SilverLX351 said:
It does have late model 5.0 valve covers on it, I pulled the valve covers off and the arent the bolt down style rockers like 5.0's, they are factory stud mount ones. It doesnt have AC so I will try the heater core sometime soon!

thanks

You might get a rough idea of what heads they are by the studs themselves and also the should be a 289, 302, or 351 cast into the head inside the covers. Also the date code is there too. If the studs have a shoulder below the threads, then they're late 68-up model heads, no shoulder means earlier heads. Also are the rockers, the rail style or not?

bartman · Jan 12, 2004

valve covers are deffinatley late model could be 5.0

modmach1 · Jan 12, 2004

Looks like a solid project !
Keep us posted with pictures

SilverLX351 · Jan 12, 2004

i will take a couple pictures of the head with the valve cover off and post them, also i will write down any numbers in there. The dipstick is in the timing chain cover, and the water pump is the old style, so it is definately not a 5.0 motor.

thanks for the replys!

D.Hearne · Jan 12, 2004

Have you checked for a dipstick hole in the left rear side of the block? Just above the oilpan , about directly under the #7 cylinder's spark plug.

blksn955.o · Jan 12, 2004

A shave of 35 will bring the cc to about 58cc and the added flow will make a bit more power than the old casting heads. If you are looking for a cheap head swap.

ShadowStand · Jan 13, 2004

SilverLX351 said:
I just bought a 67 mustang,QUOTE]

Got it off Ebay? You beat my bid.

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