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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Just ordered some suspension parts.. any tips before the installation?

  • Thread starter Thread starter CottonBurnerz
  • Start date Start date Apr 30, 2004
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CottonBurnerz

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#1
  • Apr 30, 2004
  • #1
Just ordered:

steeda sport springs
tokicos 5-way illumnas adjustable shocks/struts
MM lower control arms

~$1000

I have no problem about installing the springs but I've never done shocks/struts before. Any tips would be great on that. And lastly, is LCA installation pretty much straight forward?

I know that there will be instructions and stuff, but some tips from the experiences would help a bunch
 

GDawg

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Mar 22, 2002
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Apr 30, 2004
#2
  • Apr 30, 2004
  • #2
An impact wench would help greatly with the nuts on the struts/shocks.
 

streetstang03

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Dec 27, 2003
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the dark side of the moon/home of the 1999, 2003,
Apr 30, 2004
#3
  • Apr 30, 2004
  • #3
Post some pics afterwards please!!!
 
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CottonBurnerz

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#4
  • Apr 30, 2004
  • #4
GDawg said:
An impact wench would help greatly with the nuts on the struts/shocks.
Click to expand...

seems like my 2' breaker bar will have to do...

I will have before/during/after install pics for sure
 

GDawg

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Mar 22, 2002
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#5
  • Apr 30, 2004
  • #5
CottonBurnerz said:
seems like my 2' breaker bar will have to do...

I will have before/during/after install pics for sure
Click to expand...

Don't sweat it... I didn't have an impact gun and I did just fine. I only broke one large flathead screw driver but everything else went smooth and quick.
 
2

2kyellowgt

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Apr 30, 2004
#6
  • Apr 30, 2004
  • #6
I just did all those itme last week.

1. I used an impact gun to get the top nut off the struts, otherwise the whole body of the strut just turned.
2. The rear shock are real easy it took me about a half hour to do both.
3. The LCA's were the hardest part. Once I disconnected them from the axle it changed my pinion angle so much that I had to use a combination of 3 Jacks to get it back into place. It would also help to have atleast one other person helping you.
4. Get a really good penetrating oil and spray everything the day before and a couple hours before you plan on doing the job it will make your life a little easier.
5. Put lithium grease on all bushing new or old it will help prevent squeeks.
6. PIzza And Beer for the friend who help.

Good luck
 

DELOS02GT

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Jun 4, 2002
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Apr 30, 2004
#7
  • Apr 30, 2004
  • #7
Point the pigtails on the rears in the right direction!!! I had them all messed up and had to do the rears again. It took me about an hour and a half, this is my 3rd Mustang, to do all the springs. I also had a lift and air tools.
 
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CottonBurnerz

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#8
  • May 3, 2004
  • #8
thanks for all the tips guys.. i won't mind if there's more tips.. my car is only 4300 miles.. it should be a little easier to get stuff in and out
 

JonJon

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Aug 16, 2002
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May 3, 2004
#9
  • May 3, 2004
  • #9
CottonBurnerz said:
thanks for all the tips guys.. i won't mind if there's more tips.. my car is only 4300 miles.. it should be a little easier to get stuff in and out
Click to expand...
http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm

Seems to have a good walk through for springs. Since they're all connected it should be really easy and straight forward. After wrestling with my LCA's, doing my shocks/struts/springs (in a month or so hopefully) should be a piece of cake since we installed LCA's on 2 cars.
 
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CottonBurnerz

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  • May 3, 2004
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wait wait wait.. so if i unbolt the brake calipers off from rotor without unbolting the break line.. then I don't have to bleed the brake?... hmm why didn't i do that when I install LT's...
 
M

mean2001gt

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May 3, 2004
#11
  • May 3, 2004
  • #11
the springs and struts up front are pretty easy and straightforward. the rear ones take a little creativity. just remove everything (breaks, tierod, abs sensor, and swaybar endlink. it makes it easier. if i did the back again i would remove the springs in the rear first along with the quad shocks. then remove the lcas. i would install the lcas on one side and place the spring into possition and rasies each side with a jack until the other side of the lca was in place. then install the bolt and nut. i think this would be easier to do each side seperately, than install the lcas, then the springs.
 

Red mustang Gt 46

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May 3, 2004
#12
  • May 3, 2004
  • #12
For an easy install on the LCA's, drop the cat back and let it hang on the axle. If not, it's nearly impossible to get the bolts out near the mufflers. It is a two man job if your not familiar with the install procedure. Heres a very good guide: http://users.adelphia.net/~94turbostang/InstallInstructions/CHE1A.html

Shocks and struts are cake...
 
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CottonBurnerz

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#13
  • May 3, 2004
  • #13
Red mustang Gt 46 said:
For an easy install on the LCA's, drop the cat back and let it hang on the axle. If not, it's nearly impossible to get the bolts out near the mufflers. It is a two man job if your not familiar with the install procedure. Heres a very good guide: http://users.adelphia.net/~94turbostang/InstallInstructions/CHE1A.html

Shocks and struts are cake...
Click to expand...

well the magnapack mufflers are round and not square and big like others.. so I might able to get away with that.

Thanks for the link.. do I have to bleed to brake line at the rear? and I've asked this before, but if you remove the brake calipers without messing with the brake line, you don't have to bleed the brake right?
 
6

68 & 00 GT

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#14
  • May 3, 2004
  • #14
2kyellowgt said:
I just did all those itme last week.
3. The LCA's were the hardest part. Once I disconnected them from the axle it changed my pinion angle so much that I had to use a combination of 3 Jacks to get it back into place. It would also help to have atleast one other person helping you.
Click to expand...
forgot about that part. I used ratchet tie down straps and put them around the rear end, and pulled them back in that way.

CottonBurnerz said:
wait wait wait.. so if i unbolt the brake calipers off from rotor without unbolting the break line.. then I don't have to bleed the brake?... hmm why didn't i do that when I install LT's...
Click to expand...
lol

CottonBurnerz said:
well the magnapack mufflers are round and not square and big like others.. so I might able to get away with that.
Click to expand...
probably true it was my mufflers that were in the way there, but I just pryed them away to get in there.
 
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CottonBurnerz

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  • May 3, 2004
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68 & 00 GT said:
lol
Click to expand...

what's the answer? I'm dead serious.. don't laugh at me
 
6

68 & 00 GT

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  • May 3, 2004
  • #16
CottonBurnerz said:
what's the answer? I'm dead serious.. don't laugh at me
Click to expand...

OK. Yeah unbolt the caliper form the rotor so you don't have to bleed the brakes.
 

JonJon

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May 3, 2004
#17
  • May 3, 2004
  • #17
CottonBurnerz said:
well the magnapack mufflers are round and not square and big like others.. so I might able to get away with that.

Thanks for the link.. do I have to bleed to brake line at the rear? and I've asked this before, but if you remove the brake calipers without messing with the brake line, you don't have to bleed the brake right?
Click to expand...

With my Packs, I didn't have to drop the cat back to install or remove the LCA's. With my roomate's v6 the muffler got in the way... It was a PITA to get 1 bolt out (the side with the muffler obviously ) and to get the bolt back in. We just wrestled and pulled and tugged and it finally worked.

But with my Packs, no problem
 
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