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Just replaced a-arm bushings....here's some advice...

  • Thread starter Thread starter soctty7676
  • Start date Start date Sep 24, 2006
S

soctty7676

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
156
0
0
Sep 24, 2006
#1
  • Sep 24, 2006
  • #1
Well, after a few days of working on the front end of the stang, I have a few tips...

1. Make sure you secure the springs to the car before removing them. More than likely, you will be ok, but just put a tie strap through the spring and around the a-arm. Lower the a-arm all the way and from the front of the car, pry the spring out.

2. When pulling the rack and pinion off, make sure you completely remove the clamp bolt that connects the steering rod to the rack and pinion. I just loosened it and could not figure out why the heck it wouldn't seperate. The rack and pinion shaft is notched around the bolt, so unless you completely remove that bolt, it isn't coming apart.

3. Don't even mess with the bushings. Take the a-arms in to a machine shop and let them do it. It will save you a ton of time and frustration.

4. This is important, and I did not know this, but leave your a-arm bolts loose. Don't tighten them until you can put a load on the front of the car, I lowered the car on ramps then tightened. If you don't do this, you will put the bushings in a bind and they will twist up and make noise.

5. Don't even attempt to put the stock springs back in, unless you have a spring compressor (at least on a '98 GT Conv.), there was no possible way to get them back in without this. I figured this would be after taking them out, they really popped out with a lot of force when I pryed the old one out! Thanks goodness I had them tie strapped to the car, or something would have been broke in the garage. Also, tie strap them in even with the compressor on. I put one hook on the spring, then ran the strap through the opening between the a-arm and k-member, then the other hook somewhere under the car. Then jacked up the a-arm. This worked like a charm and kept the spring from bowing out. It was still a bi*&^& to put them back in.

Hope this info helps, it took me searching the forums and talking to the guys and NAPA to figure all this out.
 
M

mijo_latino

Active Member
Apr 16, 2004
179
1
29
43
Canton, Michigan
Sep 24, 2006
#2
  • Sep 24, 2006
  • #2
Thanks for the advice. I'll be doing something very similar soon. if it wasn't raining all weekend these would of went in today...



they're 2003 cobra control arms. My ball joints have gone bad, so considering the options and the pain it would be to revamp the old ones, I thought this was a great upgrade. New ball joints and stiffer bushings already pressed and and ready to go.
 

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oxfordgt

Member
Apr 30, 2006
288
2
18
Clarksville, TN
Sep 25, 2006
#3
  • Sep 25, 2006
  • #3
soctty7676 said:
Well, after a few days of working on the front end of the stang, I have a few tips...

1. Make sure you secure the springs to the car before removing them. More than likely, you will be ok, but just put a tie strap through the spring and around the a-arm. Lower the a-arm all the way and from the front of the car, pry the spring out.

2. When pulling the rack and pinion off, make sure you completely remove the clamp bolt that connects the steering rod to the rack and pinion. I just loosened it and could not figure out why the heck it wouldn't seperate. The rack and pinion shaft is notched around the bolt, so unless you completely remove that bolt, it isn't coming apart.

3. Don't even mess with the bushings. Take the a-arms in to a machine shop and let them do it. It will save you a ton of time and frustration.

4. This is important, and I did not know this, but leave your a-arm bolts loose. Don't tighten them until you can put a load on the front of the car, I lowered the car on ramps then tightened. If you don't do this, you will put the bushings in a bind and they will twist up and make noise.

5. Don't even attempt to put the stock springs back in, unless you have a spring compressor (at least on a '98 GT Conv.), there was no possible way to get them back in without this. I figured this would be after taking them out, they really popped out with a lot of force when I pryed the old one out! Thanks goodness I had them tie strapped to the car, or something would have been broke in the garage. Also, tie strap them in even with the compressor on. I put one hook on the spring, then ran the strap through the opening between the a-arm and k-member, then the other hook somewhere under the car. Then jacked up the a-arm. This worked like a charm and kept the spring from bowing out. It was still a bi*&^& to put them back in.

Hope this info helps, it took me searching the forums and talking to the guys and NAPA to figure all this out.
Click to expand...

I don't see why you felt the need to secure the springs to the car. All you need to do is put a jack under the a arm and slowly lower the control arm which relieves the pressure. Then step on the control and pull out the spring. When you reinstall the spring you have to reinstall the top first and step on the control arm and push the bottom in.

You do have a point on the bushings take them and get them done.

You can tighten the bolts all the way without a load on by rubbing a little dish soap on the bushing to allow it to not bind. The soap dries and goes away.
 
S

soctty7676

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
156
0
0
Sep 25, 2006
#4
  • Sep 25, 2006
  • #4
Seriously, that spring was in there so tight, if I would have pushed the a-arm down with my foot, and it would have come out, I would never be able to have kids. It took dropping the a-arm down as far as it would go and a long prybar, when it popped out, it had quite a bit of force.

I pushed the a-arm all the way down when re-installing, but there was no way that the spring would seat in the upper then lower mounts. So, I had to compress it a little.

Some other years/makes may be different.
 

stangGT97

New Member
Dec 22, 2004
1,299
1
0
41
Boston area, MA
www.cardomain.com
Sep 25, 2006
#5
  • Sep 25, 2006
  • #5
Scotty, I wonder if it is just a convertible thing. When I took out my springs, I did as Oxford was saying and just pressed the A arm out and they came out w/ no force. Anyway, good pointers!
 

oxfordgt

Member
Apr 30, 2006
288
2
18
Clarksville, TN
Sep 25, 2006
#6
  • Sep 25, 2006
  • #6
Yeah it may be different for different years but I'm pretty sure they are the same. I just lowered my wifes 01 gt vert yesterday and didn't have a problem but yours is older so it could have all just been a bit more stiff.
 

Barrier

New Member
May 11, 2005
155
0
0
Sep 25, 2006
#7
  • Sep 25, 2006
  • #7
96-98 yeah it's quite a whore to get them out/in... but when I put Eibachs in my 99 vert, they just popped right out
 
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