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Engine K Member to motor mount nuts

  • Thread starter Thread starter limp
  • Start date Start date Aug 20, 2022

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#1
  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #1
Ok, the two large nuts that hold the motor mount to the K member, anyone use a large washer under the nut??

My manual shows a washer, but when I tried one today I did not get enough thread engagement for the lock nut to work very well.... Just a couple of threads out the top of the nut... I can see where a large grade 8 washer would help distibute the load, but I don't see it happening.....
 

Mstng93SSP

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#2
  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #2
No, I have never used a washer. I have installed numerous engines and when removing original engines I have never seen a washer from the factory.
 
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96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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#3
  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #3
A washer really wouldn’t hurt, but if thread engagement isn’t there then I wouldn’t bother.

With the nylock that sucker isn’t going to come loose, so I wouldn’t worry about a washer.
 

limp

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#4
  • Aug 21, 2022
  • #4
96pushrod said:
A washer really wouldn’t hurt, but if thread engagement isn’t there then I wouldn’t bother.

With the nylock that sucker isn’t going to come loose, so I wouldn’t worry about a washer.
Click to expand...
My concern was not coming loose, I just thought that slot in the K Member is pretty good sized, the motor mount stud comes through, and a nice fat washer would spread the clamping force out some.....
AS said, not enough thread engagement......
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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#5
  • Aug 21, 2022
  • #5
limp said:
My concern was not coming loose, I just thought that slot in the K Member is pretty good sized, the motor mount stud comes through, and a nice fat washer would spread the clamping force out some.....
AS said, not enough thread engagement......
Click to expand...
Then use a flat washer or hit an ace hardware and pick up a flanged nut.
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#6
  • Aug 21, 2022
  • #6
96pushrod said:
Then use a flat washer or hit an ace hardware and pick up a flanged nut.
Click to expand...
The nut I purchased in the LMR kit is a flanged nut....
Use a flat washer?? I thought that is what I started this post about???
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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#7
  • Aug 21, 2022
  • #7
limp said:
The nut I purchased in the LMR kit is a flanged nut....
Use a flat washer?? I thought that is what I started this post about???
Click to expand...
This really isn’t complicated. If it’s a flanged nut don’t worry about a washer.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#8
  • Aug 21, 2022
  • #8
96pushrod said:
This really isn’t complicated. If it’s a flanged nut don’t worry about a washer.
Click to expand...
hey, I am trying to out think the overpaid engineers that spent millions on this design......LOL
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#9
  • Aug 21, 2022
  • #9
Edit: oops
 
Last edited: Aug 22, 2022

limp

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#10
  • Aug 21, 2022
  • #10
Mustang5L5 said:
I bought new hardware. I used new bolts and flanged nuts with a washer on each end…

Only pic I could find
View attachment 700721
Click to expand...
You are showing the K member bolts to frame, I was asking about the engine mounts to K member....
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#11
  • Aug 22, 2022
  • #11
limp said:
You are showing the K member bolts to frame, I was asking about the engine mounts to K member....
Click to expand...


Sorry. Too many beers out on the lake
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#12
  • Aug 22, 2022
  • #12
Mustang5L5 said:
Sorry. Too many beers out on the lake
Click to expand...
You are forgiven then.... LOL
 
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Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
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#13
  • Aug 27, 2022
  • #13
You said "just a couple threads out the top of the nut"....If the bolt threads reach the top of the nut then it's reached it's max holding. If I understand that comment correctly. Either way, a flanged nut is the only way I've ever seen too.
 

limp

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#14
  • Aug 27, 2022
  • #14
Wayne Waldrep said:
You said "just a couple threads out the top of the nut"....If the bolt threads reach the top of the nut then it's reached it's max holding. If I understand that comment correctly. Either way, a flanged nut is the only way I've ever seen too.
Click to expand...
Always seems to me that the first couple of threads are not full size so they don't count..... Not always, but these studs sure seem to be that way..... Flanged nuts torqued to 60 ft lbs so were good to go there......
Thanks for the responses...
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
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#15
  • Aug 27, 2022
  • #15
limp said:
Always seems to me that the first couple of threads are not full size so they don't count..... Not always, but these studs sure seem to be that way..... Flanged nuts torqued to 60 ft lbs so were good to go there......
Thanks for the responses...
Click to expand...
So did you mean only the first 2 threads engaged? That's different. For example, on a 1" diameter bolt, once the bolt is in 1" it's reached it's max strength from thread engagement. More is just more. So if the motor mount stud (can't remember diameter) makes it's thru the nut even flush to the other side you are good. It doesn't have to protrude at all.
 
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jrichker

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#16
  • Aug 27, 2022
  • #16
limp said:
Ok, the two large nuts that hold the motor mount to the K member, anyone use a large washer under the nut??

My manual shows a washer, but when I tried one today I did not get enough thread engagement for the lock nut to work very well.... Just a couple of threads out the top of the nut... I can see where a large grade 8 washer would help distribute the load, but I don't see it happening.....
Click to expand...

All you need is 2 full threads showing past the end of the nut.

The threads on the motor mount stud are an interference fit with the nuts that come with the car. I guess that keeps them from coming loose. I could not get then to tighten down so that nut firmly contacted the K member, even with the big air impact wrench running on 160 PSI. I had to use one thick washer on each side to get the nut to tighten down completely. Even then a pipe cheater bar on the ratchet was needed to tighten or loosen the nuts.

The motor mounts that I purchased were not marked left or right, and although they look similar, they are different. Be very careful to replace one mount at a time and compare the new mount against the original one to be sure that they are the same.
 
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limp

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Aug 28, 2022
#17
  • Aug 28, 2022
  • #17
My experience with any type of locking nut is you need to have a few threads showing for it to work...... This was NOT happening when I used a washer.....
 
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