Keyless entry wiring ?

donjohn · Dec 11, 2005

Tried to install keyless entry but can't find the right wires. I found a bunch of color codes for the different wires but can't find the four wires for lock/unlock. Behind the glovebox, there should be seven in all and I have trunk release, 12v, and ground...

WHERE ARE THE LOCK/UNLOCK WIRES (pink/green and pink/yellow)?

Thanks

donjohn · Dec 11, 2005

wire/color/polarity/location

12volts yellow + steering column
Starter white/pink + steering column
Ignition tan/white + steering column
Accessory gray/yellow + steering column
Second Accessory black/green + steering column
Power Lock pink/yellow either kick harness to rear
Power Unlock pink/green either kick harness to rear
Parking Lights+ brown below drivers kick
Door Trigger blk/blue or gray + below drivers kick
Trunk/Hatch Pin black/pink + at trunk sw. or light
Trunk/Hatch Release purple/yellow + below drivers kick
Factory Alarm Disarm dark green/purple - either door harness
Tachometer gry/orn or dk. grn AC EDIS module
Brake Wire red/lt.green + brake switch
Horn Trigger yellow - right of st. column

NOTES:Non-keyless versions are 5-wire and the keyless versions are negative pulse. The lock wires can also be found behind the glove box.

donjohn · Dec 11, 2005

also... since I don't have the "keyless version", what do I have to do for the "negative pulse"? i'm not too sure what that means

HISSIN50 · Dec 11, 2005

Chris, if you dont have factory keyless (so when you lift your outside door handle, your interior light does not go on, right? If it does, that indicates factory keyless), you would need to use 2 SPDT relays (unless you have onboard relays on your module).

To address your question, I picked up my door lock wires in the rocker panel area on the driver's side. If you remove the plastic piece over the door sill, and then unclip and peel back the carpet, you will see a bundle of wires. Start searching for the right colors.

Shane will really be able to help you, if he pops in.

Good luck.

donjohn · Dec 11, 2005

thanks hissin50, I believe I got most of my information from your previous posts, just couldn't find the wire

you are correct, I don't have the factory keyless

now i'm not sure what you mean by the 2 SPDT relays, but couldn't I just splice into the wires where you describe?

also, I was looking behind the glovebox and all i found were like a millioin (more like 50) wires and the eec iv.

you are suggesting on the drivers side rocker, i'll look there thanks.

can i bug you with one more stupid q: the antenna on the module i bought, is that it's own antenna, or do i tie it into the car's antenna?

thank you very much!

HISSIN50 · Dec 11, 2005

Chris, I dont know what you bought or are using to know how it works or is wired up.

If the instructions indicate that you have 'on-board relays' then you should be able to simply splice your wires together, with no extra relays needed.

Now if it says you need to add your own relays, you then would need a couple of SPDT's, or a 451M module (A neat little bugger that Shane turned me onto). If you dont have some sort of relays, either intrinsic to the unit or external, the circuits will probably melt down from the amperage load of shuttling the locks. And you can have onboard relays and use external relays too.

For the antenna, most units today have their own antenna which is made to stick to the middle of the windshield (above the rearview mirror) or somewhere with similar dynamics. Look in the instructions or on the module for a port that would mate with the fitting on the little antenna you got. It should not use the factory antenna.

Good luck man.

SeventyMach1 · Dec 11, 2005

I just did this a little while back. It can be tedious. Shane & JT helped me through pretty much the whole thing. They know what they're doing. I found the lock/unlock under the kicker panel as well. As far as the "negative polarity" issue ..... I seem to recall my module having a "switch" inside that lets you select what you need. Does yours have this?

I was getting ready to post up the diagram .... but it looks like you've got that part down pat.

donjohn · Dec 12, 2005

sweet guys... thanks for the info... Well, I still don't really know what relays are ( i think i'd understand from a technical point of view, but i don't really know by name) anyways... the unit is just for the door locks and basically trunk... so it's a pretty cheap little unit with just a wire for the antenna which is about 2 feet long, that's why i was wondering if i hook it up to the real antenna

mine doesn't have a polarity switch, but i'm going to connect the 12V and ground and use a multimeter (voltmeter) to test polarities and whatnot before I blow anything up... so i'll be careful

thanks again guys, i think this should be some good info if somebody tries this thing again

by the way... my unit has build in fuses on (i believe... i'll check in the morning) the power, trunk module, and maybe negative/ground.. and a couple more... but that might be the "relays" you refer to, i'm just not that technical

rant: i'm a freakin 3rd year EE major, and i don't know what a relay is... how pathetic is that.... freakin universities and their theory over real life examples BLAH
/rant

HISSIN50 · Dec 12, 2005

A relay is basically a remotely located, high amperage switch. For example, your module might only send out a 500mA (.5 amp, as you know) pulse or signal. That is enough to energize the coil on a relay, but not enough to actually trigger a door lock actuator.

You have some OEM relays in the underhood fuse box (they are little black boxes).

If you see that the module says it only puts out like 500 mA, then you need the relays. If it says it puts out like 10 amps, then you can probably omit external relays.

And many modules (but not all, by any means) put out a ground pulse. You can use a relay to convert the ground pulse to a 12 volt pulse if need be. You might have to do this for the trunk popper.

We can get real specific about relays if you need it.

Good luck.

donjohn · Dec 12, 2005

no, thanks for the specifications, i know what you mean now by relays... and i think this box includes them internally (kinda like an amplifier, but i understand)

i'm going to try and hook it up asap (which probably wont be for another few days), so thanks a lot and i'll know how it turns out

thanks for all the help hissin and all the others

turbogt · Dec 16, 2005

if your car doesnt have factory keyless, then your doorlock wires are NOT negative pulse. They are actually reverse rest at ground meaning when you lock it, one side(say pink/yellow) grounds while the other recieves 12 volts. when you unlock it, pink yellow recieves 12 voltrs while pink/green goes to ground. this setup requires a prewired relay bank or module to work.

HISSIN50 · Dec 16, 2005

turbogt said:
this setup requires a prewired relay bank or module to work.

which would be 2 SPDT relays (or their equivelant). A relay bank makes it sound scary.

donjohn · Dec 17, 2005

ooooo i think i'm getting it finally.

i figured out the trunk, 12v, and ground wires but still was trying to figure out the no/com/nc connections... so i'll look into these SPDT relays

i did use a multimeter and hooked up the trunk and grounds and such to see how they responded to the remote. i got something like 12v from the trunk but didn't really get the wiring for the doors. I'll definitely see what happens with the SPDT relays and maybe pm one of you guys if i need some help.

Thanks a lot!

HISSIN50 · Dec 17, 2005

Chris, as you know:

with an SPDT relay, at rest the common (often terminal 30) and NC (87A) terminals are connected. When the relay is energized, the common and NO (87) terminals connect as 30 and 87A open.

I just use two SPDT's for locks on the fox and was going to do the same on the 94 till I was told about the DEI 451M. It is a nice clean little package (it does the same as a couple of relays, but is compact and tidy).

The trunk does just get a 12 volt pulse. I grabbed mine right at the trunk switch actually. Even if you dont need an external relay, if the module sends a ground pulse, you can use a relay to convert the output to 12 volts to pop the trunk.

Good luck Chris.

donjohn · Dec 19, 2005

sweet man... i'll try and post up those wiring diagrams you gave me earilier... those rock and that's exactly what i needed.

I think if someone was in a common position, just with those diagrams they could easily figure it out

thanks... this thing was stressin me out a little bit

-Chris

HISSIN50 · Dec 19, 2005

No problem Chris. I learned this stuff the hard way so I try and help a little where I can.

Good luck

donjohn · Jan 1, 2006

*THIS CONNECTION WILL BE DONE AT THE DRIVERS ROCKER (under the sill plate and carpet)

My Keyless Entry System Wiring

DEI_451M module

So, how does this sound; I’m going to connect up the numbered wires (1-6), then cut both the pink/yellow (power lock) and pink/green (power unlock) wires so I will have 4 leads in the car. Then, I was planning on connecting #1 and 4 to the frontside lock and unlock leads, respectively, then connecting the #2 and 5 to the rearside lock and unlock leads, respectively, and finally #3 and 6 would splice together into a 12V constant source.

SOME ADDITIONAL HELPFUL INFORMATION (given by HISSEN50 ):

Reverse Polarity:
This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one motor leg.

http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w

SPDT Relays:
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

donjohn · Jan 5, 2006

So apparently, you may not need the DEI451M module with the keyless entry module I have...

and, apparently I'm retarded for locating the WRONG wires... there's a few purple wires down there and I guess the one I grabbed had yellow paint from it's neighboring wire, so i thought it was the trunk switch (purple/yellow) and was wondering why it wasn't giving me the right output

so now, my parking lights, 12V, ground, and trunk are hooked up

maybe i f'ed up and grabbed the wrong lock/unlock wires too, that's why the doors aren't giving an output signal... we'll see what happens

SeventyMach1 · Jan 5, 2006

Hey Chris .... what wire did you tap into for the trunk release? I lost the diagram I used a while back. Did you tap into it in the kick panel ..... or glove compartment? I need to go back & hook that one up. Thanks.

EDIT: I noticed you have 2 listed in your 2nd post .....

donjohn · Jan 12, 2006

purple yellow is the trunk release, all you need is a 12V pulse to pop it, and just splice it right into that wire

I did the whole system in the drivers side rocker panel. to the immediate left of the seat under that long removable panel.

I GOT THE WHOLE SYSTEM WORKING
the reason I was having problems with the door wires: you have to be careful which wires you think are the right ones. The freakin pink ones have the secondary colors really light. And pink means bright pink... not peach

they should just print numbers all the way up the wires instead of colors

the door wires and trunk release wires are thicker than the other wires. park lights are brown and ground is black. that's basically it.

Keyless entry wiring ?

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