Last Error Code .. Need Help Please!!!

[AnthonyR23]

Ok so I have cleared up about 6 different error codes.. which is great... but I have one last error code.... during engine on test.. Code 44

Thermactor air system inoperative-right side

So what I have done to try to fix this problem.. I bought a kit that includes new o2 sensors egr solenoid, tab solenoid, tab solenoid... and some relays. from latemodelrestoration

So after putting on the new vacuum solenoids my egr codes went away!!! Then I cleared the codes again... and still getting error 44...

My vacuum is at 22..

Another thing I did was hook up the vacuum gauge to the solenoid going to the tab valve and ran the diagnostic test again.. at one point during the test the vacuum shot up from nothing up to 22.. So I have made the assumption that there is nothing wrong with the computer's signal and nothing wrong with the solenoid. I also did the same thing with the tad solenoid and got the same thing.

Next thing I did was hook up a vacuum line to both the bypass valve and the diverter and sucked air through... for both I could hear the valves opening and closing. (or diverting)....

Honestly I have no idea what else could be wrong.. Where is the computer sensing that there is an error.. because everything seems to be working fine. ??

After this I am free of error codes.. Next problem I have is saving up money to get a new pro chamber.. To rid myself of a pesky exhaust leak in the factory mid pipe.. first I am gonna take it and get the emissions done.. then I'll be good for a few years!! It's every other year here in ontario!!

 

[AnthonyR23]

Please can someone help me out.. Would really appreciate it!!!

 

[AnthonyR23]

Any ideas???

Still nothing??.. just posting something to keep this from getting buried in threads...

 

[AnthonyR23]

Anyone have a manual.. That would say anything about code 44.. in more detail... Could it have anything to do with the a/c being disconnected.. ??

 

[jrichker]

There isn't anything new here, but just in case you missed it the first time. Codes 44 & 94 wil sometimes appear and disappear on their own.

Codes 94 & 44 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection. Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

 

[AnthonyR23]

ok so that wasn't helpful at all.. I guess I just won't worry about it.. if it just shows up here and there even if nothing is wrong.. My first post in this thread explained what I have tried.. no need to tell me to basically do the same thing... "There isn't anything new here, but just in case you missed it the first time." I personally find that response just rude...... anyways.. just incase you missed what my post was about... I have already confirmed that there isn't a wiring problem and have confirmed that both solenoids are working and I am getting the correct amount of vacuum.. That's why I submitted the post in the first place. Before jumping with a quick a** remark like incase you missed it the first time.. maybe try reading what I was having a problem with..

My question was more so aiming at finding out how the computer senses that the air system is inoperative (right side)... (air injection).

You know I have really gained alot from these forums but after reading responses like the last.. I really question why I even bother asking..

 

[poneypower89]

the only one who is out of line here is you anthony.

Jrichker is probably one of the MOST helpfull people on these forums and I can say with all assurance that he only means well. Please don't take ur frustrations of not being able to fix something out on a comment he made. You are taking it completely out of context.

 

[jrichker]

ok so that wasn't helpful at all.. I guess I just won't worry about it.. if
it just shows up here and there even if nothing is wrong.. My first post in this thread explained what
I have tried.. no need to tell me to basically do the same thing... "There isn't anything new here,
but just in case you missed it the first time." I personally find that response just rude...... anyways.. just in
case you missed what my post was about... I have already confirmed that there isn't a wiring problem and
have confirmed that both solenoids are working and I am getting the correct amount of vacuum.. That's
why I submitted the post in the first place. Before jumping with a quick a** remark like incase you
missed it the first time.. maybe try reading what I was having a problem with..

My question was more so aiming at finding out how the computer senses that the air system is inoperative
(right side)... (air injection).

You know I have really gained alot from these forums but after reading responses like the last.. I really
question why I even bother asking..

The reply wasn't intended as any kind of insult. I did not remember if I had posted it originally and if I did,
it was intended to be a review to think about.

I have no clue of how Ford determines if the valves are open or closing on command. The only
indicator is that the solenoids draw current when they are actuated. The computer sees the current draw
and knows that the solenoids are present and electrically functional.

There is no sensor or switch on either one of the control valves that will signal a valve opening or closing.
There are no sensors downstream of the control valves that indicate a change in airflow. I haves studied
the documentation I have available, scratched my head and wondered how Ford did it. I still don't have
an answer. If anyone can come up with a solid explanation, I would like to hear it.

As to your current problem, the code 44 (TAD valve not working) is either a wiring problem or something
glitchy in the computer. I have seen both the 44 & 94 codes come and go without doing anything to the car.


Sorry that I don't have a better answer than that. As always, input from those who have better insight
into the mysteries of how Ford did it is welcome.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)
for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel pump, alternator, ignition & A/C wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Computer, actuator & sensor wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Fuse panel layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

Vacuum routing
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

 

[AnthonyR23]

Well sorry I took it that way... and thanks anyways... I am going to leave it alone.. I am replacing my throttle body, egr spacer, and egr valve... so after that I will just drive it for awhile take it for an emissions cause I'm due this year and hope it passes.. If it does pass I am not going to worry about it. I will check again here and there for error codes... maybe it will just go away sometime.