Last Roller motor question. Promise!!

A67auto

New Member
Jul 21, 2003
24
0
1
Sacramento,CA
OK, here is the deal. It was time for a rebuild of the 302 I had in my Mustang so we pulled the motor and took it to the shop. Turns out the block it shot. I have a 94 5.0 block and it is A-OK but I did not want to use the late model block. I looked thru the previous post and I have a good idea of the parts I will need…50 oz Flywheel, 50 oz balancer, old timing chain cover, Windsor-Fox clutch pivot thing for the 4 speed (has anyone ever really seen one? I can’t find them on the Wondsor-Fox web site). I have two questions before I take it to the shop:

1- I read that I could use the eccentric (The cup thing on the end of the cam that drives my fuel pump) off of my old motor to my new one. Is there anything that might not work with the new block or something that might have to be machined? I would really rather use the mechanical fuel pump.

2- I already have a Comp 270S cam for the older 302 ready to go and I would like to stay with it. Can I use the cam and solid lifters in the roller block or will I have some kind of problem with it.

It really does not matter if I use a roller cam or not. I would rather use the 270 because I already have it.

Thanks

Alex
 
If you are only using the '94 block and nothing else from the donor '94, then I believe all you need to do is get the clutch piece. The regular (old style) tappets work fine in a roller block. If you use the old timing cover and use an older style timing chain and fuel pump eccentric then a mech. fuel pump will work.
 
Another place you might try if you dont get enough info here is the 5.0 forum.

I think most timing sets for 221-351W smallblocks have the same part number from ~'1965-1995. Sometime in that 30 year span they went from mechanical carb pumps to electric and didnt change anything. With that in mind, I dont see why you couldnt use a fuel pump eccentric on a roller cam timing set. I'll be doing the same thing soon. You can also use your flat tappets and cam in a roller block(its using a roller in a regular block that presents problems). Just pull all the parts out of the lifter valley and SAVE THEM. They'll come in handy if you go roller in the future. Make sure you have pushrods that are the correct length, though.
 
only thing with the mech fuel pump, is to use the eccentric you have to get a longer dowel plug for it, the roller cam's hole is deeper, so if you use the old one, it wont hold the eccentric properly....and last i checked, the small block flat tappet and roller pushrods were the same length.
 
65fastback2+2 said:
only thing with the mech fuel pump, is to use the eccentric you have to get a longer dowel plug for it, the roller cam's hole is deeper, so if you use the old one, it wont hold the eccentric properly....and last i checked, the small block flat tappet and roller pushrods were the same length.

Oh yeah, thats why my Crane roller cam came with two dowels! I've seen eccentrics that had an alignment tab that fit in the dowel hole though, not on the dowel itself. It was a '78 engine, though. On the pushrods, I wasnt sure so I looked in my Summit catalog. Comp and Crane both have different part numbers for flat tappet and roller cam pushrods. It makes sense since roller cams are fatter, the lifters are taller, and the heads are the same height. That only leaves room for shorter pushrods.
 
"only thing with the mech fuel pump, is to use the eccentric you have to get a longer dowel plug for it, the roller cam's hole is deeper, so if you use the old one, it wont hold the eccentric properly....and last i checked, the small block flat tappet and roller pushrods were the same length."

When you say the roller cam's hole, do you mean the hole at the end of the cam where the dowel sits or do you mean the cam sits farther back in the block so the eccentric will not line up properly? I plan to use the solid cam so will this matter?

Also, when I take my engine to the shop, can I get the crank/pistons/rods balanced in a way such that I could use my 28oz flwheel and balancer?

Thanks so much again. It sucks finding out your block is no good from the shop.
 
A67auto said:
"only thing with the mech fuel pump, is to use the eccentric you have to get a longer dowel plug for it, the roller cam's hole is deeper, so if you use the old one, it wont hold the eccentric properly....and last i checked, the small block flat tappet and roller pushrods were the same length."

When you say the roller cam's hole, do you mean the hole at the end of the cam where the dowel sits or do you mean the cam sits farther back in the block so the eccentric will not line up properly? I plan to use the solid cam so will this matter?

Also, when I take my engine to the shop, can I get the crank/pistons/rods balanced in a way such that I could use my 28oz flwheel and balancer?

Thanks so much again. It sucks finding out your block is no good from the shop.

i mean the hole at the end of the cam where the dowel sits, and, i think you could get it rebalanced but the roller 50oz balance stuff is MUCH stronger, and some of the parts are forged
 
A67auto said:
Thank you for the reply so fast...

Sorry but one more thing, I will need a new flywheel and does anyone know if a stock replacement for the 5.0 work with my 4 speed and bellhousing or will I need a special one?

Alex

i did my roller motor to a c4.....but.....just thinking things through, i think you should be able to take your current flywheel to a tranny shop and get it rebalanced for the 50oz balance