maybe a real dumb question, but, how do you know the height of the centerline of your cam?
this thread makes me want to go lay on the floor with a tape measure.
measure to the center of the crankshaft and add the dimension from the cam to the crank centerline, when i was plotting my car i found it via google.
Also, the numbers you are using for the control arms is the hypotenuse dimension(center to center), since it is angled, as far as i know, you need to use a straight dimension for that calculator, so you need to find the angle of the control arms and do some quick trig to get the number correct. At the time i found this out i said screw it, ill spend some time messing with the shocks cause these numbers arent going to get me a faster timeslip.
Just read a few pages of that thread. Very good info in there. It's a long thread...tells me more than a few know/and others want to "know". Lol I'm going to watch/read this thread and The YB one.you would need to use the Pythagorean theorem to get the straight length for accurate numbers, a^2+b^2=c^2.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2949358&postcount=73
I agree with everything here with exception to the slicks. I'm a radial fan, but we all knew that lol@90lxcoupe
Honestly that's not what I wanted to hear. I'm listening everything you say, I know that you know what you're talking about. I just went through buying all these parts at the recommendation of Kevin, I hate to throw it all out the window without trying to make it work.
This car will not see slicks, it will most likely always be on drag radials. The clutch is a single disc dual friction Ram clutch, I don't remember which model but I believe it was rate to 550 or 600 foot pounds of torque.
I bought the ET streets brand new one year ago so I assume they are the newer ones. When you are referring to the solid joints, are you saying go away from the hemi style joints altogether?
I tagged you in this post because I knew you are familiar with the topic. Please don't think I'm not listening to what you say, I have just got to give this a try first, then I may be back here listening to you tell me I told you so.
If I did go back to stock style stuff what do you suggest? Should I just add factory style arms to factory length, what about ride height, where do I get my adjustments from? This is all a learning experience for me, I appreciate all your help, thank you.
Joe
Good job! Car sounds awesome btw! I would try losen the front struts to full soft,with 15# pressure in tires,and use 4K rpm as start point. I wouldn't make full runs either at first. Just get through 330' mark. Make 2 hits like that. See if there is a difference between them. Your frontend action looks pretty quick/short to me.
I would then stiffen the fronts a click. Keep everything else the same. Make 2 hits and check results if it doesn't change much I would then look at increasing launch rpms. All you want to really do is check your 60ft times/330 splits at this point. If you start seeing a big change(+/-) you can adjust from there and look at other areas(like rear shock settings).
Just try to get a baseline and make small changes and work methodically (keep good records of everything you can). You want a slight wheel spin at hit and a linear "hook" factor. A bog/straight hook is the hardest thing on parts. Your first run(with slight spin and fastest 60ft) is the closest to a great run. I always hear of guys 60ing in the 1.3-1.4 range with our cars. I never got there. Best I did was 1.60's and it was with a slight spin/hook. I could hear the tire squeak slightly. I also broke an axle once(stock) with a 5-5200 rpm launch. Dead hook and boom! Buddy said I got a tiny amount of air under front tire lol before it broke.
Hopefully the other guys will chime in they have a lot of track/suspension experience. Also did you install that ARB yet?
How much adjustment in the front shocks?
Same for rear shocks?
What tire are you using again?
If the car is bogging and not spinning you need to hit it harder. Any wheel spin at all will cost you time, the idea is to get it to dead hooks and keep enough power in it to move down the track!
I would like to see you in the middle with the rear shocks and 2 clicks from full loose in the front as a starting point. I don't have a ton of input as far as air pressure with that particular tire. @srtthis may be best for the tire help?Strange 10 ways front and rear. The rears were pretty tight, on 7 (past wheel hop) and fronts were tight too at a 6 ( front end likes to jump and fall quickly). On the last run the fronts were lowered to 3 or 4, I believe 3, I will have to check again.
26X10.5 ET streets (really 8.5" tire).
Sounds like you may be thinking looser front end?
Joe
Just to add some data to this thread, here's where I was at the end of last summer (and I had to go back through my logs and was surprised how consistent this was). My setup was:
Stock uppers
MM XD non-adjustable lowers
Stock K and arms
FRPP B-srpings
Strange singles
Stock rear sway bar, removed front
26x11.5 ET Street bias-plys (no tube) on a 15x8 prostar (normally at 15psi hot)
15x3 skinnys
McLeod super street pro clutch (dual friction)
powertrain should still be in my sig (haven't paid much attention to that in a while)- dyno'd 330hp/338tq
I finally settled on a shock setting of 7 rear, 3 front and was consistent 1.68 give or take a few .001's dumping the clutch at 6k with a best of 1.674. Settings at 5/5 gave 1.7, and full loose (which i only tried a couple times with lower rpm) was 1.72. The looser the settings, the more the car wanted to "pop" the front and fall right back down again, not the smooth weight transfer you want (a lot like your vids, but more violent with the higher launch rpm).
That combo was probably both over-tired and over-clutched, even with the 6k clutch dump it bogged real bad, but again was better with the shocks set tighter. If I hadn't blown it up on a missed 3rd-gear shift it would have gotten teamz uppers and springs and hunting for 1.5's with a softer front-end rise.
Remember, the more energy the car puts into squatting or fighting the suspension, the less it can put into actually moving forward. This is where either a re-located upper or lower come in, as they can change how much the rear wants to pivot and crush/collapse by geometry/leverage instead of relying on the shocks and springs to overpower the tendency of the stock locations to collapse the rear. IMO, this is even MORE important on a low-powered car that doesn't have the extra umph after the hit to keep it going.
Do you have access to scales?
You are going to definitely want some wheel spin with a bias ply, if it dead hooks it is going to slow down. Wheelspeed will be your friend. If it were my car i would bump the 2 step to 5500, set the struts to full loose, shocks in the middle of the adjustment, and the tires at 16psi and see what it does. It seems like there is a consistency issue with the launch, what are you using to release the 2 step?
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