Limp home mode and odd code P061

lexluthr69 · Dec 20, 2008

I've been having this problem intermittently, but it almost always rears its ugly head after consistent driving above 85mph. At some point in the drive, while above 80-85mph, the car will suddenly "clunk" and feel like it's gone into "limp home" mode. In addition, the "wrench" light will come on. Every time it happened prior to today, I could pull over, turn off the engine, fire it right back up and it'd be as if nothing ever happened. Today, however, it came back almost immediately, 2 more times with the CEL (engine light) coming on the 3rd time. I immediately pulled over into a service station, turned it off, then back on and the CEL was still there. So I pulled out my Xcal and checked the code. It came back as a P061. I was an hour away from the house, so I cleared the code and pressed on, with no more occurences of either the "wrench" light or the CEL.

Now, I've tried looking for that code with some web hits, but nothing conclusive, other than it's not a normal DTC.

Here's the only thing I can think of, but even so, it should have more codes.... Here in England I'm running 90 octane gas on a 89 octane tune from Doug. Is it possible that it's either messing with the O2 sensors in a way that's not tripping a code, or should I be looking elsewhere?

SpartaPerformance · Dec 20, 2008

doesn't look like a valid code, is the light on now?? Check the code again.

lexluthr69 · Dec 21, 2008

I cleared the code so i could keep going w/o any significant side effects, and the code never came back. I'm sure I'll have more opportunities to get the "wrench" light to come on again and it clunk into what I believe to be the limp home strategy, however the CEL was the first time I had that and/or a DTC.

I believe I read on here that someone else had a loss of power similar to my description of "limp home" and they cleaned their MAF sensor. I'll give that a try and see what comes of it.

UrbanRedneck · Dec 21, 2008

a code should be 4 digits after the P... How many miles are on the car?

Your o2 sensor theory is not likely, 02 faults usually won't cause a limp mode anyway. But the first thing I'd do is put the tune back to stock and see if the problem goes away.

lexluthr69 · Dec 21, 2008

I am considering the option of putting it back to the stock tune, but that would also involve putting the stock airbox and intake tract back in as well. While I'm not too concerned about the loss of power, it's the amount of variables changing that does bother me. The car only has 25k miles on it.

I agree that the O2 sensors shouldn't be the culprit, but I thought I'd throw it out there because I do know they can be problematic when it comes to lean conditions and as a result the computer starts dumping more fuel in, reducing power.

I didn't get a chance to clean the MAF today, but will try that before I try returning it back to stock.

Thanks for the input, but as always, more ideas are always appreciated.

Luke

ptfoxbdy89 · Dec 21, 2008

only other thing i could see is a throttle body positioning sesnsor they are a similar culprut to the problems your haveing don't know what the price would be there for a replacement about 300ish dollars here for a new throttle body... good luck with it man let me know what happens... and the octane thing.. 90 wont hurt an 89 tune i don't have to tell you not to run octane boost or anthing though!!

lexluthr69 · Dec 30, 2008

I cleaned the MAF sensor even though it already looked clean, but it didn't seem to make a difference. It happened again yesterday, and then again today and today the CEL came on. I checked the code and once again it came up as a "P061;". I just looked online and it appears that a P0061 code is an O2 sensor issue: P0061 - Check Engine Light Diagnostic Trouble Code Description

My next step is to swap out the JLT intake for the stock box and reset the tune to stock to test it. We'll see how that goes.

crash · Jan 5, 2009

P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum

If the digits are correct. Get a scan.

Florida08GT · Jan 6, 2009

You might also want to check to see if it is the P061B code (code p061b is Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance). I just had this happen to my car after having the headers and tune put on. was crusin around 90 when it happened to me. Just got my tune redone today and so far so good. If you have a tune on it, ask your tuner about that code. They changed a few of the tables around in the tune and again so far so good.

lexluthr69 · Jan 7, 2009

That sounds exactly like what the problem is. I also googled that code, and found other folks having the same problems under the same scenario as me.

The best I can tell is that the ECM measures engine load (ie, "torque") along with several other variables to figure out the right injector pulse width. If the ECM detects that the engine is under more torque or load than a stock engine should be (e.g., with a blower or aggressive bolt ons) then the ECM will throw this code and send the car into limp mode.

That quote is from another forum, but it describes exactly what I believe is also happening. While I don't have a blower or aggressive bolt-ons, this problem seemed to show it's ugly head everytime I'd go from a off throttle/engine lugging, to mildly aggressive throttle and that quote could possibly explain why that throttle on/off was killing me.

I really appreciate the heads up on that, Florida08GT!!!

Beecher · Dec 8, 2010

any thoughts as to what this problem is? My 06 v6 mustang started doing this last year, only in cold weather, and only the wrench light. never a code.

sunday, it started it again, now that it is cold, it was fine all summer. Then monday, it did it yet again, but this time, the CEL light came on, and it is throwing code P061. yes yes, only P061. the reader also said Gernerator Lamp Terminal Circuit. I can get the freezeframe if you like.

Also, when it was doing it last year, i replaced the fuel filter, the plugs and the wires, and all 3 plugs on the drivers bank had the electrodes melted off.

Any thoughts as to what it is, or what to do to fix it? I havnt seen any cures? or even clues.

thanks much

Beecher

Beecher · Dec 8, 2010

oh yes, and it usually does it when the car pulls a slight grade, like a dip in the road.

white08gtcs · Jun 14, 2011

Same problem here, I'm almost positive its the throttle body, #1 while I was installing 62mm bbk twin throttle body my car wouldn't turn on, after deciding to return that throttle body I went back to my original but had to get a new TPS. #2 the speed shop had to do some sort of override to even get it to turn on; but I'm going to skip the trying to figure out problem part and get a brand new Ford Racing 62mm Twin Throttle Body. By the way the wrench is a code for the Electronic Throttle Control... the p061 code is unheard of and I tried checking the DTS from my SCT tuner and I came up with no results so its definitely weird.

scupking · Jun 17, 2011

Do all you guys that are having this issue have under drive pulleys?

white08gtcs · Jun 17, 2011

Pulleys

Nope, stock water, crank, & alternator pulleys. I've heard that changing these three pulleys from stock to performance pulleys fixes the issue, but I haven't tried it... What's your take on this scupking?

scupking · Jun 17, 2011

white08gtcs said:
Nope, stock water, crank, & alternator pulleys. I've heard that changing these three pulleys from stock to performance pulleys fixes the issue, but I haven't tried it... What's your take on this scupking?

Hmm not to sure on this one could be an issue with the TPS.

white08gtcs · Jun 17, 2011

I got a brand new TPS late February this year. Now I think it might actually be the entire throttle body since my issues started when I tried swapping out the original 55mm for a BBK 62mm... I honestly don't know what to do; my issue is very inconsistent, its been 3 days now and I haven't had a single error, but for some reason I know it'll come back on again. The weird thing is that every time I turn on my car, the radio turns on by itself and resets its self to the original manufacturer settings. I have my original 55mm twin throttle body by the way.

scupking · Jun 17, 2011

white08gtcs said:
I got a brand new TPS late February this year. Now I think it might actually be the entire throttle body since my issues started when I tried swapping out the original 55mm for a BBK 62mm... I honestly don't know what to do; my issue is very inconsistent, its been 3 days now and I haven't had a single error, but for some reason I know it'll come back on again. The weird thing is that every time I turn on my car, the radio turns on by itself and resets its self to the original manufacturer settings. I have my original 55mm twin throttle body by the way.

So you are running the 62mm now? If so I have heard people having a lot of random issues with after market TBs. That's why I'm not going to change my stock one out.

white08gtcs · Jun 18, 2011

Nah I'm on the original throttle body, I guess that's what's confusing me... but I think the Ford Racing Throttle Body could fix my issue. I realy don't know, Its going to be a week now and for some reason I had no problem, lol, I mean Im not complaining but its weird.

Jcon · Apr 25, 2012

I know this thread is dead but I am bringing it back. I will copy and past my thread from another forum. Seems similar but with a bit more detail:

Back in October of 2011 my stock battery finally died in my stock (except axle backs) 2005 Mustang GT. I replaced the battery with a Duralast Gold. After I closed the hood, I started the car and all was good. Shut it off and then 3 hours later got in to go out for dinner. Got out of my drive way and started to accelerate down the street and the car shut off, with a fail safe mode message. Turned it on and the MIL was activated. I drove to dinner and it was fine. After, I drove to my friends hours a few miles away to use his reader. Came back with P061B and P2106. Cleared it and he and I went out for a drive, two miles to the gas station. Filled up an then got on the highway and accelerated, immediate fail safe, P061B and P2106. Cleared it and drove it hard (trying to replicate conditions to find a common cause) for another 5 miles and it was fine.

Looked around forums and the web for those codes and found a lot of people reporting bad TPS or TB. I cleaned the TB and MAF and that did not work. I bought a 2007 TB and TPS (new style) and installed it. Over the next two months, my car fail safe'd several times while on the highway over 65mph. It seemed to do this after accelerating to those speeds although sometimes I would have constant throttle position and it would just go in to fail safe mode. Only common variable at this point was rain. It was always raining. I did/do have the dreaded water leak but it is almost completely fixed and now requires a driving rain for 4+ hours before I see a drop inside the car.

The car would see fail safe probably a dozen more times from December through the beginning of April. It would usually happen one time and then follow with a second or third time within 20-30 minutes.

In February, it fail safe'd and threw 12 codes:
P0446
P2106
P061B
P151A
P201
P202
P203
P204
P205
P206
P207
P208

This one time code frenzy and variation in codes led me to believe a bad ground was to blame for bad sensor readings. I made an 8ga engine ground kit and installed it to the negative terminal, PCM mount, passenger valve cover, throttlebody stud, driver's side valve cover, and the factory ground in front of the factory air box. After installing it, I reconnected the battery and started it up. Car sounded a little louder than it had earlier in the day and I was hoping to attribute it to stronger grounds/voltages. Pulled out on to the road and went WOT and in 100 yards it fail safe'd. Pulled in to a parking lot turned it on, no code. Turned it on, pulled on to the road and gave it a little throttle, fail safe. Pulled over, read P061B and P2106, cleared the code, started it up and drove, fail safe. Read P061B, P2106, and P0446, cleared, started up and drove home. Went out later that day to a closed strip mall and ran 6 1/4 WOT runs in their empty parking lot. No fail safe, felt strong. On this day, there was no rain and it was about 79* and sunny.

In running ScanTool, I read 13V+ at the ECM, and my fuel trims seem to vary from 0 to 30%. My dyno yesterday said I was running a rich 11.2 A/F at WOT. I am not sure what other parameters I should watch to see variance from normal that may explain my issue. BTW, all of my fail safes were shut offs, not limp mode.

Of the 20 or so times I have hit fail safe my car reports:

A MIL with P061B and P2106 75% of the time
A MIL with P061B, P2106, and P0446 50% of the time
A MIL with P061B, P2106, P0446, and P151A 25% of the time
A MIL with the 12 codes above, one time

The car is not tuned and has the factory tune. I do not have anything on the car other than resonators and a ported and polished throttle body & JLT catch can (which were installed after the problems began). MIL is not always activated when it fail safes.

I know P446 is EVAP purge solenoid but it doesn't always come up and I haven't had any issues with starting or filling the car, which seem to be the identifiers for that issue.

I have not pulled the O2 sensors to check to see if they are dirty from running so rich. I have not seen any burnt wires or any burnt fuses. Sometimes the car feels a little sluggish (but still faster than my 05 V6) or has a noticeably quieter exhaust note.

Fuel filter was changed last September, oil in January, air filter is still clean (can't remember when it was changed last)

2007 Freestyle's and F150's have reported P061B and P2106 with a bad factory tune and the TSB has a new file. Haven't found such a TSB for my car.

Have also not found my situation or code combination in any web or forum searches.

Update April 25, 2012
So since the issue started when my battery died and I put a new one in, I decided to replace the 8 month old battery with an Optima Redtop. Previously, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery has caused a fail safe on the very next drive. Last night I put the new battery in and floored it and it did not fail safe. This morning, I pulled out on to my street, got on the throttle and it fail safed. I have ruled the battery out now and I got P061B and P2106 again but pending this time with no MIL on.
More than 50% of the fail safes have occurred after accelerating while over 50mph or while just cruising over 65mph.
So far I have replaced the TB TPS, and 2 batteries with no luck.
My car does not have a tune, intake or any mods other than the new TB (which was ported and polished and installed after the problem started) and MacBoomtube resonators. Everyone I have seen with this error has gotten it due to a tune… Well my car is still stock.
Any ideas are appreciated.

Limp home mode and odd code P061

lexluthr69

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SpartaPerformance

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